I just picked up a 1996 SE and it is equipped with ABS. It has been sitting for several years and the brake line running from the front to the rear is pretty rusty. It is currently holding pressure, but I am thinking I should be replacing it.

I understand the truck has a TEVES Mark IVG ABS system and what I have been able to find I would need a DRB to bleed the system if I got air into the HCU. Has anyone replaced brake lines and then bled the system and not required paying someone with the DRB test tool cycling the system?

If I plug the opening in the front when I remove the steel line, replace the line, and make sure the master cylinder stays full, can I be successful?

Or do I make all the changes I want, tow the truck to the dealer or brake shop and have them do a bleed?

Thanks

 

The DRB scanner pulses the ABS pump to bleed air that accumulates there during the bleed. I've read that depressing the brake pedal fully and holding it there with a block of wood (prior to any work being performed) closes the valves to the ABS pump and prevents air from entering. After replacing the hard line, remove the block and bleed the brakes normally. I would confirm this before attempting, there are many here with more experience than I.

 

Just lock up the brakes on a gravel drive or other slick/loose surface to activate the ABS. I actually had to do nothing at all other than a standard bleeding of the brakes on the last two ABS vehicles I replaced lines on so chances are good you don't even need to mess with it.

 

anybody else have a comment about the wood block thing? I seem to remember reading that before. I assume you mean push the pedal down as far as it will go and block it with a board from the pedal to the seat. Won't that pedal move even farther after I crack open the system?

 

Personally I wouldn't repair the ABS system. I only had one Xj with it and I ripped it all out. The Abs systems are nothing but problems. There a a few thread the show how to do it.
Just my opinion.