MonacaYankee

I am going to replace my drag link end because it is clunking where it connects to the steering knuckle. After I take the drag link out and disconnect it from the tie rod and steering knuckle will I need an alignment? Can I just count the threads over to the nuts on the drag link and put the new ones in the same place?

Any tips for doing this? I do have a pitman arm puller.

Thanks

DeadCellM60

Counting threads can work but I've always needed an alignment after the work was done. You could also measure end-to-end and use that number to get close, but you'll still need an alignment.

You can do that yourself if you don't mind jacking up the Jeep a few times and fine tuning the adjustment. It's time consuming and annoying, sure, but it's far better than paying $90 for some shop to do it.

MOvermyer

count the threads or measure to get close. that will be good enough until you get to the shop for an alignment. better to spend the 80-90 now than buy two tires soon.

DeadCellM60

It take practice and patience. I went so far one time as to take it to a shop for an alignment check. Everything was right in the middle of each range. I'm not saying everyone can expect the same level of success but it's not impossible to do yourself.

If you're at all worried of mucking things up, take it to a shop.

caged

changing your drag link won't necessarily mean you'll need an alignment.
all the adjustment on the drag link does is centers your steering wheel.

just don't rotate the tie rod ends on the center link and you'll be fine.

mr white

Should just need a TRE or two, not the whole drag link.

MonacaYankee

I just got the tie rod end to the steering knuckle.

caged

drag link only has one replaceable tie rod end for the pitman arm.
the other end is fixed.
drag link a.k.a. long tie rod

MonacaYankee

You mean the drag link end to the steering knuckle is not replaceable? Do I have to buy the whole drag link?

Turbo X_J

caged

that's correct. providing you have a stock or stock-like setup.

you can go with a 1 ton setup that has all replaceable rod ends.

MOvermyer

yes, if the end that attaches to the knuckle is bad, you have to buy a new drag link. MOOG is a decent brand you can get at most auto stores. typically its a lot easier to replace the sleeve if you are doing both ends.

MonacaYankee

Replaced the entire drag link yesterday. Clunking is now GONE. Install time was about 2 hours.
Hardest part was getting the drag link end out of the pitman arm.

The end going into the steering knuckle was extremely loose compared to the new drag link which was tight. If you can twist your drag link and a clunk comes from the steering wheel it needs replaced.

I still need to center my steering wheel. The jeep drives straight and does not pull.


Old drag link on ground/New one installed
Cut is from the drag link blasting out of the pitman arm...

If anyone has any questions let me know. I used my own pitman arm puller to get the steering damper out. For the rest I used the advance auto rental kit pictured.

Bruce in Montana

I know this is an old thread but I'm trying to understand...

Is this correct?

The only tie rod end that is replaceable on the center link (drag link) is the one that goes to the pittman arm. The joint on the passenger-side steering knuckle is not replaceable.

Both tie rod ends are replaceable on the tie rod....including the joint at the drivers side steering knuckle.

I'm so confused

I started out just wanting to do a toe adjustment after I had new ball joints installed....I can't get the damn tie rod to turn. I removed the bolts....I've PB Blasted it for a week...tapped on it....banged on it....and strained on it with a pipe wrench. I don't know how much more it (or I) can take without tearing something else up.

Any advice is appreciated.....well, you know.....most of it.

caged

i guess you can replace the tie rod (center link) and both tie rod ends. don't forget the adjusting sleeve.

and yes, only one tie rod end is serviceable (replaceable) on the drag link.

maybe it's better to look into an upgraded steering setup. one that does away with the inverted "y" type steering. don't waste your money on the currie setup either, it's just a beefier version of the stock y setup.

it's also cheap and easy to build your own 1 ton setup using DOM tube with weld-in bungs (available from TMR Customs) and chevy tie rod ends.