Just buy a roll of soft vac line and cut the old POS hard line an inch from the ends and use the soft line in between. The soft vac line snugly slides over the ends and you don't have to worry about bumping a hard line while working on something and hearing that dreadful "snap". I did that with ALL of my vac lines. Hard lines were the dumbest thing they could do.

 

Here's an experiment. Unplug the rear vacuum hose on top of the valve cover. What happens to the idle then?

 

checked the CTS, 20K ohm setting on the meter and it reads .44 with a hot engine, i believe that to be within spec except if i need to ge back to multimeter school!

will check the vac line in just a few, that is a new line since i replaced the valve cover gasket (two weeks ago) will report back

 

okay so pulled that vac line, first picture is park idle second picture is drive idle, held pretty steady there bounced a little but thats been going on, sure did bog down and sound crappy when plugged back in or even putting finger over the connection on the intake. when i replaced the valve cover gasket put the whole thing in the parts washer and cleaned all the carbon and gunk out of it so the underside was very clean and carbon free, removed the baffles too and cleaned them all out.

I don't know what i did when there was no computer in the garage! j/k

 

Can you meter the air flow with your fingertip and get a compromise and good idle?

 

i could use something to cover it no problem, its just me right now, but the earlier in the day picture was with it connected untouched at in gear idle


okay so this is me covering the hole with something while i hold it in gear in the cab, at first it park idle and in gear idled about the same then after a second it dropped way low as you see in the pics

 

interesting thing or maybe not, i was testing the TPS it is right on the money for the trans side but the ecu side i was a little confused about.

My reference voltage is 4.9, then on the output side it is .73 if my math is correct at 17% it should be .83, not sure if that small of a difference is worth worrying about?

tested the trans side again: reference is 4.65 output is 3.86, by my math i am .01 off and its shifting good, don't really think that that small difference could be the clencher either

 

When working on an engine/driveability/idle problem, adjust the TPS using the flat 3 wire connector per my instructions. Do that, and then let us know the results.

 

Okay adjusted the "ecu" side per the instructions, it idles at 3000 rpm no go! And that's with everything connected. Put it back to where it was and idles back super low unless the vac line from the valve cover is unhooked? So possible the new tps is bad? Well it's maybe four months old but practically new!

 

It's possible. where did you buy it?

 

Not trying to take over what anyone said..but i had this problem.. i put in a new Fuel Pump relay fuse. Reset the computer (taking terminals off the battery and touching them together) and problem was fixed. if you havnt reset ur computer in ur xj with all these new item's it would sure fix it..

 

So where did you find this fuel pump relay fuse?

Did you know Renix ECUs don't reset?

 

You sure? i have a Renix..and ive replaced all my sensors and it removed my old memory. and my weird idel.. Fuel pump Relay fuse. passager side of engine bay..Lookin like this..
IF it helps maybe check out the Ox relax too.. Just saying..

 

It came from advance auto parts. Thing that gets me is when the CCv line is connected (rear of the valve cover) its almost like its choking itself out? The line is clear no breaks and no holes (it's new) would just putting a breather filter on the valve cover and designing a small filter for the intake have any adverse effects? It's still smelling rich though but the idle is waaaayyy better

 

Just to cover this one too I tested the fuel pressure on the rail both with the hose off the regulator and on and it checked out good 31/39