What I meant there in post 13 was, I'm not sure what putting system voltage back into the 5V sensor feed from the ECU could do. (to an ECU) The 02 heater wire comes to mind as one that has some amp potential.

 

Text.

 

Huston, we have a problem. Still, system voltage back into the 5v sensor feed might be a cause for ECU trouble, but it may not be the 02 heater feed.

 

So this is curious. At WOT, the ECU energizes the 02 heater relay, and "terminates" power to the 02 heater. We should raz BLUE over this!

 

So, "the ECU energizes the 02 heater relay" at WOT. (the FSM says). Assuming you are correct in figuring that WOT frys your ECU, that might be a factor.

Idk if feeding that back into the 5V sensor feed could kill it or not.

 

Some clarification is in order.

The TPS has 2 completely separate sides. They share nothing in common except the actuator lever. They work independently of each other, backwards from each other actually if you re-read the procedure.

In 91, when the HO came out with Chrysler's system, the TPS controlled both engine and trans with "one" TPS.

Flintstone makes a few good points.

I would like to know your TPS readings now, at both the engine and trans sides of the TPS, with your new meter.


Is the accelerator linkage hitting a harness?

Is th eharness rubbing the rearmost head bolt near the firewall? That's a known issue.

 

Tps readings with new meter. DC voltage.

Engine side
C to B: 4.87
B to A: 0.05
C to A: 4.77
WOT
C to B: 4.97
B to A: 2.76
C to A: 2.20

Trans side
D to B: 4.57
B to A: 0.09
A to D: 4.69
WOT
D to B: 0.72
B to A: 3.93
A to D: 4.69

I may have mixed meter polarities, but I know how to remove the "-" to make it a positive reading. There was a voltage sweep from idle throttle to wot. These are the reading at both extremes. Dunno if the polarity of the meter makes a difference on the measurements. Last I remember they don't, but that's not to say they've changed how meters work in the last 10years. That's how long my previous has lasted.

 

Also when I installed the new accelerator pedal it was contacting the ecu harness. I went ahead and moved that back up out of the way. I split the loom looking for breaks and didn't find anything. The harness is about 3" from the head along the back side. I cleaned the two cut wires on the injector harness and found they were the white/black and violet/white. Seems like ckp wiring according to the wiring color diagram, but didn't find the other ends.

 

Engine side, at idle:

First off, ohm the B connector. What's that value?

A should be about 4.8 volts.
C should be about .84 volts

 

Engine side pin B to negative battery? Connected or disconnected?
Key on or off?

I'll check it at 1930 hrs CST. When I'm on break.

All readings were taken with key on, engine off. Should I have taken them with engine on?

 

Pin B ohmed out at 0.9 ohms.

Pin A was 0.08 VDC
Pin C was 4.85 VDC

I'm thinking something is wrong with the tps. Pin C reads 5.0VDC when the sensor is unplugged with key on. Pin A is 0.0VDC. Pin B is 0.0VDC and ohms out to negative battery. Is pin C the supply voltage?

 

A is supply. B is ground. C is output voltage.

Typically A is about 4.8 with connectors connected and key on, B is less than 1 ohm with the key off, C is .84 with the key on and connectors connected.

Has someone spliced a TPS into your Jeep and ****ed up?

 

The c101 splice is the only place there is a splice. The wire colors match up. Blue to blue, brown to brown, and yellow to yellow. Also the colors at the tps connector match up too. I wouldn't think that this should be different from any other renix. I'll have to take another look to confirm the colors are correct. Last time I looked at them they booked correct. Is there any other common areas where this harness would break that it could've been spliced?

 

The only part of the c101 that has been bypassed is the tps wiring. Every other wire has continuity through c101.

 

Did they mix them up?