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Renix TPS Help

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Old Jul 29, 2015 | 09:19 AM
  #31  
cruiser54's Avatar
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
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Originally Posted by RacerX
Ok
For anyone reading this:

My problem had nothing to do with the TPS! - NOTHING

Seems to be the EGR and other vacuum hoses ...Crank case vent..?

blew it all out with air hose - Runs GREAT now

I do think I need to R&R (and clean) the head cover, along with all the air fittings on it.
Do Tip 25. Replace the rearmost vac hose/grommet with the one in Tip 22.
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Old Aug 8, 2015 | 02:50 PM
  #32  
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From: Plano, TX
Year: 1989
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: 4.0
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I am getting intermittent chugging/backfiring. I had put a new tps on, but didn't know anything about reading voltages so I put the screws back in the same position they had been with the old tps.

After reading your directions for checking voltage and putting the old tps back on with the lever all the way to the stop, I am getting 4.6 on a/b but .15 is my output b/c.

I have checked everything else that had been mentioned about wiggling the harness under the map and all that. My grounds are good and the IAC is new. I have a new map sensor to go on and am going to put the new tps on and check voltage.

This issue is really making me want to let it catch fire and hope insurance pays off.
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Old Aug 8, 2015 | 09:40 PM
  #33  
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Tip 5?

sounds like your tPS is adjusted improperly.
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Old Aug 8, 2015 | 10:29 PM
  #34  
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Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Tip 5?

sounds like your tPS is adjusted improperly.
I tried adjusting it and maybe my meter is crap, but on the input side I got 4.65, but the output side the best I could get was a reading of .15, which is miles away from 17%. I am really just thinking getting rid of the whole damnedable rig is my best option. I had a 3500 rpm idle, but when the engine plug of the tps was unplugged it would idle fine but I doubt I can/should drive it that way. Oh and to top it all off, I managed to strip the torx on the bottom screw, using the proper size torx even.

Last edited by Dragwn; Aug 8, 2015 at 10:50 PM.
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Old Aug 9, 2015 | 12:12 AM
  #35  
cruiser54's Avatar
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From: Prescott, Az
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Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by Dragwn
I tried adjusting it and maybe my meter is crap, but on the input side I got 4.65, but the output side the best I could get was a reading of .15, which is miles away from 17%. I am really just thinking getting rid of the whole damnedable rig is my best option. I had a 3500 rpm idle, but when the engine plug of the tps was unplugged it would idle fine but I doubt I can/should drive it that way. Oh and to top it all off, I managed to strip the torx on the bottom screw, using the proper size torx even.
What about Tip 5?
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Old Aug 9, 2015 | 11:51 PM
  #36  
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From: Snohomish County, WA
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Do Tip 25. Replace the rearmost vac hose/grommet with the one in Tip 22.
ok I'll be ready to do this in a couple days

However, I went to #25 ...and the picture will not load - says I don't have permission to access...?

I was hoping to get a good look before a tear into it.
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Old Aug 10, 2015 | 07:51 AM
  #37  
cruiser54's Avatar
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Originally Posted by RacerX
ok I'll be ready to do this in a couple days

However, I went to #25 ...and the picture will not load - says I don't have permission to access...?

I was hoping to get a good look before a tear into it.
You're going to the Cherokee forum link?
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Old Aug 10, 2015 | 03:32 PM
  #38  
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From: Snohomish County, WA
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
You're going to the Cherokee forum link?
yes
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/cr...153657/index2/
...to be exact.

Thanks for the pics - i might have cut vertical instead of horizontal.

last week's work:


Knuckle after




Knuckle Before




Knuckle plate & axle installed

Last edited by RacerX; Aug 10, 2015 at 04:04 PM.
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