So I decided to make a thread for my continueing problem.

Iv got a 1988 4dr xj 4x4 and have been having brake issues. It had a spongie pedal and the front brakes were shot. I replaced the Pads and rotors yesterday. After i put them on and drove it around and it had about 10% stopping power. Had to use the E brake for stoplights(scary).

I suctioned almost all of the fluid out of the resivor and put new fluid it. Bled all the brakes except the driver front because the bleeder was seized on there.

The brakes still have hardly no pressure when the vehicles running. I can pump the brakes when the engines off and they do stiffen up.


Please help.

 

Master cylinder take a crap?

 

Replace calipers and wheel cylinders, I have an 88, my pedal is like a sponge, but everything is new, it's an old tired jeep

 

Gotta get that bleeder open and adjust up rears. If still no brakes hold pedal down with constant pressure see if pedal creepes down if so master would be by passing , a bad booster pedal be high and hard to push

 

Wow what he say ^^^ lol...

 

Something about the high hard one.....

 

Fissd it ...lol...

 

Well im not sure on how to test the brake booster or master cylinder, I was thinking about just replacing it anyways. But the thing is before i did the brakes the pedal still was soft but it would obviously slow down. Now there is no force in the system. I drove around my complex for 10 minutes and it wouldnt even slow down enough to roll over a speed hump.

With the vehicle on there is no pressure. The pedal goes all the way to the floor. When attempting to stop you can feel the pedal is at its furthest point when the brakes attempt to slow down.

I know the renix era brakes are not going tk be super tight, I did the exact same work on my 90 and i can lock the front brakes up no problem.

 

It was doing that before i replaced the brakes. I would hold it at a light then the pedal would randomly creep down.

 

If it was creeping b4 it need to be replaced might of just given up the ghost your rear brakes is where pedal height comes from . If your going to replace booster up grade to newer style 96 and up booster and master its a 100% increase in stopping power .

 

If i dont have the time to do the swap would a normal new booster and master cylinder be fine?

I dont have the tools to do the brake lines for the opposite side like the other booster needs.

 

I believe it is a direct swap... Same as if you put the stock ones in but you need to free up the bleeder 1st

 

Well its almost a direct swap. You need to make new brake lines, possibly use spacers and enlargen the firewall hole.

I will be working on that bleeder tomorrow evening.

 

Thanks for the info.. I have a stock booster and master it stops on a dime.... Do you have abs by chance?

 

Jes a normal booster set up will work . gotta get bleeder done thats a deff and adjust up rears ....you tube has good write up on rear drum brake adjustment .