Renix Brake issues
#1
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l 6Cyl
Renix Brake issues
So I decided to make a thread for my continueing problem.
Iv got a 1988 4dr xj 4x4 and have been having brake issues. It had a spongie pedal and the front brakes were shot. I replaced the Pads and rotors yesterday. After i put them on and drove it around and it had about 10% stopping power. Had to use the E brake for stoplights(scary).
I suctioned almost all of the fluid out of the resivor and put new fluid it. Bled all the brakes except the driver front because the bleeder was seized on there.
The brakes still have hardly no pressure when the vehicles running. I can pump the brakes when the engines off and they do stiffen up.
Please help.
Iv got a 1988 4dr xj 4x4 and have been having brake issues. It had a spongie pedal and the front brakes were shot. I replaced the Pads and rotors yesterday. After i put them on and drove it around and it had about 10% stopping power. Had to use the E brake for stoplights(scary).
I suctioned almost all of the fluid out of the resivor and put new fluid it. Bled all the brakes except the driver front because the bleeder was seized on there.
The brakes still have hardly no pressure when the vehicles running. I can pump the brakes when the engines off and they do stiffen up.
Please help.
#3
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Replace calipers and wheel cylinders, I have an 88, my pedal is like a sponge, but everything is new, it's an old tired jeep
#4
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Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
Gotta get that bleeder open and adjust up rears. If still no brakes hold pedal down with constant pressure see if pedal creepes down if so master would be by passing , a bad booster pedal be high and hard to push
Last edited by freegdr; 02-13-2013 at 03:08 PM.
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#8
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l 6Cyl
Well im not sure on how to test the brake booster or master cylinder, I was thinking about just replacing it anyways. But the thing is before i did the brakes the pedal still was soft but it would obviously slow down. Now there is no force in the system. I drove around my complex for 10 minutes and it wouldnt even slow down enough to roll over a speed hump.
With the vehicle on there is no pressure. The pedal goes all the way to the floor. When attempting to stop you can feel the pedal is at its furthest point when the brakes attempt to slow down.
I know the renix era brakes are not going tk be super tight, I did the exact same work on my 90 and i can lock the front brakes up no problem.
With the vehicle on there is no pressure. The pedal goes all the way to the floor. When attempting to stop you can feel the pedal is at its furthest point when the brakes attempt to slow down.
I know the renix era brakes are not going tk be super tight, I did the exact same work on my 90 and i can lock the front brakes up no problem.
#10
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Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
If it was creeping b4 it need to be replaced might of just given up the ghost your rear brakes is where pedal height comes from . If your going to replace booster up grade to newer style 96 and up booster and master its a 100% increase in stopping power .
#11
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l 6Cyl
I dont have the tools to do the brake lines for the opposite side like the other booster needs.
#12
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Year: 1990 Laredo
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6 Renix
I believe it is a direct swap... Same as if you put the stock ones in but you need to free up the bleeder 1st
#13
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Year: 1990
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I will be working on that bleeder tomorrow evening.
#14
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Year: 1990 Laredo
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6 Renix
Thanks for the info.. I have a stock booster and master it stops on a dime.... Do you have abs by chance?
#15
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Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
Jes a normal booster set up will work . gotta get bleeder done thats a deff and adjust up rears ....you tube has good write up on rear drum brake adjustment .