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Renix Brake issues

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Old 02-13-2013, 02:30 PM
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Default Renix Brake issues

So I decided to make a thread for my continueing problem.

Iv got a 1988 4dr xj 4x4 and have been having brake issues. It had a spongie pedal and the front brakes were shot. I replaced the Pads and rotors yesterday. After i put them on and drove it around and it had about 10% stopping power. Had to use the E brake for stoplights(scary).

I suctioned almost all of the fluid out of the resivor and put new fluid it. Bled all the brakes except the driver front because the bleeder was seized on there.

The brakes still have hardly no pressure when the vehicles running. I can pump the brakes when the engines off and they do stiffen up.


Please help.
Old 02-13-2013, 02:32 PM
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Master cylinder take a crap?
Old 02-13-2013, 02:33 PM
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Replace calipers and wheel cylinders, I have an 88, my pedal is like a sponge, but everything is new, it's an old tired jeep
Old 02-13-2013, 02:34 PM
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Gotta get that bleeder open and adjust up rears. If still no brakes hold pedal down with constant pressure see if pedal creepes down if so master would be by passing , a bad booster pedal be high and hard to push

Last edited by freegdr; 02-13-2013 at 03:08 PM.
Old 02-13-2013, 02:38 PM
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Wow what he say ^^^ lol...
Old 02-13-2013, 03:03 PM
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Something about the high hard one.....
Old 02-13-2013, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by SpruceJedi
Something about the high hard one.....
Fissd it ...lol...
Old 02-13-2013, 03:10 PM
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Well im not sure on how to test the brake booster or master cylinder, I was thinking about just replacing it anyways. But the thing is before i did the brakes the pedal still was soft but it would obviously slow down. Now there is no force in the system. I drove around my complex for 10 minutes and it wouldnt even slow down enough to roll over a speed hump.

With the vehicle on there is no pressure. The pedal goes all the way to the floor. When attempting to stop you can feel the pedal is at its furthest point when the brakes attempt to slow down.

I know the renix era brakes are not going tk be super tight, I did the exact same work on my 90 and i can lock the front brakes up no problem.
Old 02-13-2013, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by freegdr
Gotta get that bleeder open and adjust up rears. If still no brakes hold pedal down with constant pressure see if pedal creepes down if so master would be by passing , a bad booster pedal be high and hard to push
It was doing that before i replaced the brakes. I would hold it at a light then the pedal would randomly creep down.
Old 02-13-2013, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by DESERTXJ206
It was doing that before i replaced the brakes. I would hold it at a light then the pedal would randomly creep down.
If it was creeping b4 it need to be replaced might of just given up the ghost your rear brakes is where pedal height comes from . If your going to replace booster up grade to newer style 96 and up booster and master its a 100% increase in stopping power .
Old 02-13-2013, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by freegdr
If it was creeping b4 it need to be replaced might of just given up the ghost your rear brakes is where pedal height comes from . If your going to replace booster up grade to newer style 96 and up booster and master its a 100% increase in stopping power .
If i dont have the time to do the swap would a normal new booster and master cylinder be fine?

I dont have the tools to do the brake lines for the opposite side like the other booster needs.
Old 02-14-2013, 12:32 AM
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I believe it is a direct swap... Same as if you put the stock ones in but you need to free up the bleeder 1st
Old 02-14-2013, 12:33 AM
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Originally Posted by The Rooster
I believe it is a direct swap... Same as if you put the stock ones in but you need to free up the bleeder 1st
Well its almost a direct swap. You need to make new brake lines, possibly use spacers and enlargen the firewall hole.

I will be working on that bleeder tomorrow evening.
Old 02-14-2013, 12:37 AM
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Originally Posted by DESERTXJ206

Well its almost a direct swap. You need to make new brake lines, possibly use spacers and enlargen the firewall hole.

I will be working on that bleeder tomorrow evening.
Thanks for the info.. I have a stock booster and master it stops on a dime.... Do you have abs by chance?
Old 02-14-2013, 02:34 AM
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Originally Posted by DESERTXJ206
If i dont have the time to do the swap would a normal new booster and master cylinder be fine?

I dont have the tools to do the brake lines for the opposite side like the other booster needs.
Jes a normal booster set up will work . gotta get bleeder done thats a deff and adjust up rears ....you tube has good write up on rear drum brake adjustment .


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