Renix?
What is this about Renix jeeps are they bad, something i should avoid. I'm just curious never really got into that hole fase of researching. Wat were some of the major disadvantages of this i have a 1990 2dr jeep cherokee laredo sport with a 4.0 L6 and ax-15 tranny Not to sure about the transfercase i looked at the tag it sais 234j. Is this a Renix Model
What is this about Renix jeeps are they bad, something i should avoid. I'm just curious never really got into that hole fase of researching. Wat were some of the major disadvantages of this i have a 1990 2dr jeep cherokee laredo sport with a 4.0 L6 and ax-15 tranny Not to sure about the transfercase i looked at the tag it sais 234j. Is this a Renix Model
OBD-I = 1991-1995 w/150ci I4 or 242ci I6, 1984-1986 w/173ci V6
OBD-II = 1996-2001 w/150ci I4 or 242ci I6.
It's a matter of control systems - the RENIX setup is "pre-OBD," and therefore doesn't "store" or "throw" codes. Most of the RENIX system can be troubleshot with a DMM and a little know-how.
I prefer the RENIX over OBD, but I also came up on points and condensers - and am therefore used to doing my own thinking. I find the RENIX system to be rather more robust than the ChryCo OBD.
It's called "RENIX" because it was specified by Renault (AMC partner) and designed/built by Bendix/King. RENault+bendIX = RENIX.
There's nothing wrong with RENIX - but if you aren't familiar with engine control setups, it will trip you up a few times until you get used to it. There are enough differences that you really need to find someone who "knows RENIX" near you for the first few repairs, and you may want to check out my RENIXPower group: groups.yahoo.com/group/RENIXPower. You should be able to download the RENIX FI manual there as well - it's a good adjunct to a Chilton's manual for RENIX diagnosis and repair.
Thanks man i was just wondering i got this thing it has a load of problems was wondering about them. i already put a new set of main bearings and rod bearings. Transfer Case and an oil pan. Now i just have idling issues lol thanks so much for the information.
Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 522
Likes: 28
From: Prosser, WA
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Many people don't like the closed cooling system. I changed my thermostat housing to a 93 housing and put a drain **** in it where the sensor would go for the 93. Drill a small hole in the top of the thermostat, makes it so much easier to burp the air out of the system. OR you can convert it to a open cooling system.
What's your idle issue?
Pulsing hih and low revs?
High rev?
Dies at intersections?
What's your idle issue?
Pulsing hih and low revs?
High rev?
Dies at intersections?
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Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 522
Likes: 28
From: Prosser, WA
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
If your transmission case is 2 pieces (left and right) bolted together, its the puegot (sp) trans. That's what mine has and I'm looking for an AX-15 or NV3550 before mine dies.
In either case, the BA-10 should definitely be replaced - the damned thing just isn't any good for a truck of this weight and torque output. I went through four of them before I got an AX-15. In five years.
MJ>XJ
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 17,836
Likes: 7
From: Griffin, G.A.
Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
i got the BA-10 cause they also take a different tranny mount... one you cant just get at any freakin parts store... had to special order from 4wd and they were the cheapest coming in at like a hundred bucks... sucks... mine was rebuilt right before i got it so im hoping it will last for alittle while anyways... lol... hard to find a ax15 from a cherokee...
i was told mine has an ax 15 transmission how do i telll the difference between the other one mine only has a mount under the back of the transmission and transfer case it has four bolts that bolt down to the crossmember.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 800
Likes: 3
From: The Dirty 530
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Renix I6
Stay away from the french tranny at all costs!
If it has ax15, your golden!
The overheating can be a problem, but as stated, can be fixed.
Other than that I love my 88

If it has ax15, your golden!

The overheating can be a problem, but as stated, can be fixed.
Other than that I love my 88
Senior Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 800
Likes: 3
From: The Dirty 530
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Renix I6
and look like this:

(the one on the left) AX15 on the right
Here's a writeup on the swap:
http://www.driveev.com/jeepev/convpgs/motorclutch3.php
I have the BA-10. Hope it holds out for a decent amount of time. If it goes I have no way to buy the AX-15. 
Just curious, any one have a decent source for one? What is the typical price range? over 1k?

Just curious, any one have a decent source for one? What is the typical price range? over 1k?
The BA-10 also has a case that is split longwise, while the AX-15 case is divided into three sections front-to-back.
The AX-15 was also used by Toyota (light truck and RWD Van) and Dodge (V6 Dakota,) so you'll just need an AMC/Jeep bellhousing if you can score one (opens up options.)
Also note that the "external" (1994-up) version of the AX-15 - or AX-15e - uses the same bellhousing mount as the NV3550. So, you can mix-and-match that way, and the NV3550 is a measurably better gearbox than the AX-15.
BOTH are vastly superior to the BA-10. The two main problems with the Frog box are:
1) The synchronisers are aluminum. Fine for lightweight vehicles (it was designed for the Peugeot 505,) but not for trucks.
2) The gears are actually too hard for the truck application. Most failures are usually first and second gear being stripped on the countershaft.
The AX-15 was also used by Toyota (light truck and RWD Van) and Dodge (V6 Dakota,) so you'll just need an AMC/Jeep bellhousing if you can score one (opens up options.)
Also note that the "external" (1994-up) version of the AX-15 - or AX-15e - uses the same bellhousing mount as the NV3550. So, you can mix-and-match that way, and the NV3550 is a measurably better gearbox than the AX-15.
BOTH are vastly superior to the BA-10. The two main problems with the Frog box are:
1) The synchronisers are aluminum. Fine for lightweight vehicles (it was designed for the Peugeot 505,) but not for trucks.
2) The gears are actually too hard for the truck application. Most failures are usually first and second gear being stripped on the countershaft.


