Removed cross member, now exhaust and prop shafts are falling out
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Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Removed cross member, now exhaust and prop shafts are falling out
According to the factory service manual, in order to change coil springs I needed to remove the cross member that supports the front prop shaft. Well, when I did, everything up there started moving. the exhaust and the prop shaft were resting on the cross member...Is that normal? I wasn't expecting everything to shift then fall.
#2
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Put that all back together! No need to remove the cross member at all. Remove shocks, sway bar end links and possibly the lower arms. All depends what springs are going back in. Once everything is out, you can lower the front diff and should be able to pull the springs out no problem. You may have to unbolt the brake lines where they bolt to the body just to get some extra stretch too. Should be a simple project.
#3
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Not sure where you got those directions, but the above advice is right for OEM parts
#4
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I just checked 3 FSMs. No where do they recommend lowering the cross member to replace front coil springs. The 97 FSM calls for disconnecting the front drive shaft from the axle (only), but even that is probably not necessary.
For future reference, when removing the cross member, the jack must be supporting the transmission - not the cross member (as shown in your picture).
Also, the frame rails are not thick enough to withstand the jack stands where you have placed them behind the lower control arm frame brackets. That area will buckle and bend. Next time, use something like a piece of 2x6 between the stand and the frame rail to spread out the load a little.
In general, if you are going to lower something that is so heavy it requires a hydraulic jack, it is important to look first and understand the implications (taking note of what components are connected to where). If you don't, damaging the vehicle is the best case scenario, damaging yourself permanently is the worst.
For future reference, when removing the cross member, the jack must be supporting the transmission - not the cross member (as shown in your picture).
Also, the frame rails are not thick enough to withstand the jack stands where you have placed them behind the lower control arm frame brackets. That area will buckle and bend. Next time, use something like a piece of 2x6 between the stand and the frame rail to spread out the load a little.
In general, if you are going to lower something that is so heavy it requires a hydraulic jack, it is important to look first and understand the implications (taking note of what components are connected to where). If you don't, damaging the vehicle is the best case scenario, damaging yourself permanently is the worst.
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Page 2-9
Coil spring/Jounce bumper, near the bottom right...It says mark and disconnect the front prop shaft. I didn't know how to do that, so i went to the section for that, page 3-8. Did I misunderstand?
See pic:
Coil spring/Jounce bumper, near the bottom right...It says mark and disconnect the front prop shaft. I didn't know how to do that, so i went to the section for that, page 3-8. Did I misunderstand?
See pic:
Last edited by double_0_7; 03-27-2019 at 06:42 AM.
#6
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It means to remove the u-joint straps and drop the front of the front drive shaft away from the axle differential. The straps can be found holding the u-joint to the rear of the front axle differential near where item #9 is depicted in figure #14 above.
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I just checked 3 FSMs. No where do they recommend lowering the cross member to replace front coil springs. The 97 FSM calls for disconnecting the front drive shaft from the axle (only), but even that is probably not necessary.
For future reference, when removing the cross member, the jack must be supporting the transmission - not the cross member (as shown in your picture).
Also, the frame rails are not thick enough to withstand the jack stands where you have placed them behind the lower control arm frame brackets. That area will buckle and bend. Next time, use something like a piece of 2x6 between the stand and the frame rail to spread out the load a little.
In general, if you are going to lower something that is so heavy it requires a hydraulic jack, it is important to look first and understand the implications (taking note of what components are connected to where). If you don't, damaging the vehicle is the best case scenario, damaging yourself permanently is the worst.
For future reference, when removing the cross member, the jack must be supporting the transmission - not the cross member (as shown in your picture).
Also, the frame rails are not thick enough to withstand the jack stands where you have placed them behind the lower control arm frame brackets. That area will buckle and bend. Next time, use something like a piece of 2x6 between the stand and the frame rail to spread out the load a little.
In general, if you are going to lower something that is so heavy it requires a hydraulic jack, it is important to look first and understand the implications (taking note of what components are connected to where). If you don't, damaging the vehicle is the best case scenario, damaging yourself permanently is the worst.
Protecting myself was the first priority as always, so I wasn't under the vehicle. Since I was only working in the wheel wells, I never planned on being under the vehicle.
Thanks for the tip on the frame rails. I'll fix that as soon as I get home.
So my question I guess, is this:
Forgetting for a moment that I didn't need to move the cross member, since I did...can I just bolt the cross member back in place and forget the whole thing happened, or will there be some downside to having moved it in the first place?
#9
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So my question I guess, is this:
Forgetting for a moment that I didn't need to move the cross member, since I did...can I just bolt the cross member back in place and forget the whole thing happened, or will there be some downside to having moved it in the first place?
Forgetting for a moment that I didn't need to move the cross member, since I did...can I just bolt the cross member back in place and forget the whole thing happened, or will there be some downside to having moved it in the first place?
When it dropped, how far did it fall? Was it completely off? or just down to where the picture shows it?
#10
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Year: 1995
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Engine: I6 4.0L
So my question I guess, is this:
Forgetting for a moment that I didn't need to move the cross member, since I did...can I just bolt the cross member back in place and forget the whole thing happened, or will there be some downside to having moved it in the first place?
Forgetting for a moment that I didn't need to move the cross member, since I did...can I just bolt the cross member back in place and forget the whole thing happened, or will there be some downside to having moved it in the first place?
What you may run into is alignment issues. If you do, the proper way to handle it is to put a proper jack under the transfer case (use a block of wood and make sure it's stable). I would then put a set of jack stands with a sturdy piece of wood between them under your transmission. I don't know if the pan is sturdy enough to support the weight, so somewhere under just the case is best. Then loosen the crossmember to transmission mount bolts which should give you enough play to raise the tranny/xfer case slightly above the normal location, bolt up the crossmember and then lower the tranny/xfer down and tighten the tranny mount bolts.
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And for the love of god man -- if you're ever unclear on what something means or if something doesn't seem right (like having to drop the cross-member for a coil spring removal or having a rotating shaft "resting" on something) - just check in with your fellow forum members!! That is what we're here for!
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it dropped maybe a half inch lower than it is. I took both bolts off the driver side, and nothing seemed amiss. Then I took the bolts off the passenger side, and that's what's shown in the pic. I immediately put the jack where you see it, and started investigating, including posting here for advice.
#13
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Considering that you're lowering the vehicle - if you remove the shocks and sway bar end links, then lower the axle as far as it will go down (then raise it ever so slightly and put jack stands under it) you will be able to get the OEM springs off with a normal spring compressor tool. Just make sure you watch a few videos on using the tool and take care since compressed springs are dangerous. Installing a shorter than OEM spring should be easier than dealing with the OEM one.
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it dropped maybe a half inch lower than it is. I took both bolts off the driver side, and nothing seemed amiss. Then I took the bolts off the passenger side, and that's what's shown in the pic. I immediately put the jack where you see it, and started investigating, including posting here for advice.
#15
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it dropped maybe a half inch lower than it is. I took both bolts off the driver side, and nothing seemed amiss. Then I took the bolts off the passenger side, and that's what's shown in the pic. I immediately put the jack where you see it, and started investigating, including posting here for advice.