Queenjo

No, still trying to figure out what is wrong. I have verified the rotor cap is right at the #1 plug wire at TDC. More to check, I guess. the noise was just so odd I thought that I might have a starter issue. That does not appear to be the case.

dmoe69

Listening to that last video while watching the flexplate turn, it really seems like the sound is actually the load getting harder and easier on the starter. It sounds like you're already looking over the firing order and distributer indexing, which is where I would start.

Queenjo

Reading that and thinking about it, I think you are right. Time to go through that step by step.

Thanks!

Queenjo

Anyone have any ideas on than connector?

dmoe69

I'm a RENIX era guy, can't help with the connector, but could it be to the sync sensor at the bottom of the distributor or to the AC pressure switch?

Remove the coil wire from the distributor cap and crank the engine. Does it still do that labored/free cranking thing?

Saudade

It's the under hood light.

lawsoncl

It look that way to me as well, and the last video looks like it slows down versus stopping. Also seems like it's turning pretty slow. Have you verified spark and fuel? The Renix ignition won't fire if the voltage is sagging too low or the engine rpm is too slow. Are you cables up to snuff, including the block to battery ground wire? If you didn't remove the crank sensor from the bellhousing when you pulled the engine, you might have damaged it.

Queenjo

Thank you!

Queenjo

I did verify spark and I know there is fuel in the rail. I got a backfire a couple times so pretty sure fuel is working. The cables are old but worked fine before the rebuild. I puled the trans and had a local shop rebuild it while I was doing the engine so the sensor should be fine. Always possible a wire was damaged in pulling the engine but it all looked okay.

I don’t now how fast it should turn so I didn’t think it was going too slow. Something to check after I play around with the timing some more.

Thank you for the thoughts.

Queenjo

Yes, I have done that a few times and it makes no difference.

dmoe69

Lawsoncl is pointing out that if the CPS is not removed first, it can make contact with the tone ring on the flexplate when the engine is separated from the transmission. That contact can damage the CPS, but if you have spark, it is likely still functioning. I'm sure you've done it, but I would verify again that the distributor is not 180 degrees out of time. I also find it unusual that you have the same starter symptoms without ignition connected. Do you have the means to perform a compression check on all cylinders?

Queenjo

I do and it is on my list for this morning. I have done the 180 degrees try and will try moving it on notch at a time each direction to see if there is something weird there.

Thank you,

lawsoncl

How hard is the engine to turn with a wrench on the crank? I'm assuming you would have noticed whether it was very stiff when bolting up the t/c. Staring at the video in slo-mo, it looks like the engine speeds up when it's sounding unloaded. The rep rate on the audio where it seems to unload is about once every 1.1 sec, so maybe one cylinder is off? That works out to about 220 rpm if you assume it's just one stroke being easy.

Queenjo

It is definitely stiff with a portion that is easier during the rotation. I put that down to a moment when nothing was compressing or something. Honestly, it has been decades since I have done anything like this so I have no idea how stiff it is supposed to be.
I will see what the compression test says.

Queenjo

Well, I think I have discovered the problem. It turns out I have a bit of an unusual pattern when I tested the compression! Looks like the timing cover is coming off.