I am getting a rebuilt cylinder head, casting 0630 for a 98 straight 6 but it does not have the rear exhaust manifold stud in it. I am getting a set of new studs and bolts but I am wondering how I press the new stud into the cylinder head. I want to be able to do this at home as I do not want to have to take the head in somewhere and take the chance of someone scratching a mating service or something stupid. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

I recently had to do this. It's threaded, so you need to screw it in. What you do is put 2 nuts on the end and tighten the outer nut against the inner nut and then the whole stud will spin into the engine. Once it's in there good and tight you loosen the outer nut. Use a sharp motion (sort of like how an impact works - put the wrench on it, then smack it with the palm of your hand) to loosen the outer nut and remove it, then remove the inner nut and install the exhaust manifold.
I only had to do this on the front stud, so it was a lot easier to access, but since you've got the intake and all that out of the way you should be fine.

 

I guess I was assuming the torx shaped end had to be pressed in somehow. Here is a picture of the studs and bolts. Were yours like this or no torx shaped end? Also, did you use any locktite to keep it in place? Thanks for your help.

 

Mine was the original style (or maybe P.O. shenanigans, who knows with all the things I've found) so it was just a threaded stud.

The threads are different for the engine vs. the nut, so the more coarse side of the stud goes into the engine. I actually think that the torx end may be for easing the installation (in that you could put an inverse torx bit or small 12-point wrench on that end to tighten it into the engine). It will be obvious when you have it in your hand.

Don't forget to re-use the conical washers on the original bolts - they're important and those kits don't seem to have them.

NO LOCKTITE! I read a write-up where the guy recommended it, but you need to heat the high temp locktite up to remove it... can you imagine trying to get a torch on those bolts without damaging a bunch of stuff around it?
On the studs, I can see the case for locktite, but if you snap off one of those studs, it'll make it that much harder and it doesn't need it.

 

You can read the many pages of responses I got when I did my exhaust manifold replacement. Lots of good tips in there... especially the "putting the 4 lower bolts in before mounting the intake on the dowels" one.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/exh...acement+advice

 

Thanks for all the info. I'll definetly check out your thread about the lower bolts, those are the biggest pain in doing an intake/exhaust/head job for sure! Thanks again!

 

Hahaha, no problem.

Being in the middle of a clutch replacement myself, I'm looking back on the exhaust manifold replacement as the "good old days".