rebuild Engine won't start - please help
#1
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Model: Cherokee
rebuild Engine won't start - please help
So I just had the 4.0L engine in my '01 Cherokee rebuilt. reassembled the engine when I cranked the engine and after a little hesitation it started right up. I sounded good, ran well, and idled at about 8oo rpm for about 5 min until I hit the throttle at which point it stalled out. The check engine light came on and the code translated to coil pack cyl 1&2 low voltage (sorry can't remember the code number). I cranked it again and again but could not get the engine to start again. I cranked a little while until the battery ran low to the point where it would not turn over (maybe 5 or 6 cranks before this happened). The battery was about 4 years old and not in great shape so I figured it must be that the battery was not holding a good charge and so I went out and got a new battery. I did not bother to have the old battery tested because I figured i needed a new battery anyway.
The next day I installed the new battery, voltage was 12.5v, I cranked the engine and it started right up. Again it sounded good and ran well, voltage on the battery was now 13.5 so the alternator is working. I let the engine run for a few min and then i hit the throttle and again it stalled out. No check engine light this time, but once again the engine cranks but will not start.
I've given the engine a once over looking for loose grounds, or broken wires or something out of place. But at this point I'm kind of lost. Does anyone have any ideas of where to start or what to look for.
I'm guessing that since it ran for a while it must be getting fuel and spark and the cam and crank sensors must be working. My guess is that it must be something with the Mass air sensor or throttle position sensor. Or that the computer has to "learn" the correct settings for the new engine.
Please help I'm lost at this point
The next day I installed the new battery, voltage was 12.5v, I cranked the engine and it started right up. Again it sounded good and ran well, voltage on the battery was now 13.5 so the alternator is working. I let the engine run for a few min and then i hit the throttle and again it stalled out. No check engine light this time, but once again the engine cranks but will not start.
I've given the engine a once over looking for loose grounds, or broken wires or something out of place. But at this point I'm kind of lost. Does anyone have any ideas of where to start or what to look for.
I'm guessing that since it ran for a while it must be getting fuel and spark and the cam and crank sensors must be working. My guess is that it must be something with the Mass air sensor or throttle position sensor. Or that the computer has to "learn" the correct settings for the new engine.
Please help I'm lost at this point
Last edited by jmaurath; 09-25-2010 at 01:24 PM.
#2
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Year: 1994 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Hello. I'm not quite sure what is causing your problem but when looking for electrical or sensor problems that seem to have multiple things involved (TPS, MAF, MAP, etc sensors) try to determine what they have in common as far as grounds or wire junctions. In the meantime try doing a Google search for just random things like " jeep engine stalls on acceleration ". Good luck and if you figure it out let us know in case someone else has the same problem in the future.
#3
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I would check the throttle position senor, since its dieing when you move the throttle.
Remove your battery cable to reset the ECM and it should start back up.
Remove your battery cable to reset the ECM and it should start back up.
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
well im just going to throw this crazy idea out there considering it just happened to my moms 2003 ford escape "not to similar of vehicle but similar problem"
My moms car would run for a while, 5-10 minutes of idle. Any time you would try to drive it or raise the RPMs it would sputter then die... Tested with DMM and got a reading of 12V on battery when at rest, then 13.5ish while at idle.. Had my dad raise the rpms while i still had my DMM on the + and - and as soon as he did the voltage dropped out to about 9V. Had the battery tested "easy fix first" but it tested just fine. Final answer was the ALT was bad, weird but true... not sure if this info helps atall...
Good luck bud!
My moms car would run for a while, 5-10 minutes of idle. Any time you would try to drive it or raise the RPMs it would sputter then die... Tested with DMM and got a reading of 12V on battery when at rest, then 13.5ish while at idle.. Had my dad raise the rpms while i still had my DMM on the + and - and as soon as he did the voltage dropped out to about 9V. Had the battery tested "easy fix first" but it tested just fine. Final answer was the ALT was bad, weird but true... not sure if this info helps atall...
Good luck bud!
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Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
Check your fuel pressure, and make sure the base timing is correct. I assume you have a manual that will explain the proceedures in full.
BTW, there is no MAF sensor, it has a MAP sensor. It kind of does the same thing as a MAF, only different.
BTW, there is no MAF sensor, it has a MAP sensor. It kind of does the same thing as a MAF, only different.
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