rear washer
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
rear washer
i have a cherokee sport 2000, the hose on the rear wiper,came off. when i went to push it back on, i found that the small tube on it had broken off. anyone have ideas how to repair this, or is the back piece replaceable.thank you for any and all help..
#2
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Schnecksville, PA
Posts: 1,217
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
Year: 94 XJ
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I have yet to find an aftermarket supplier for the "wiper arm surround".
Main problem is the tube goes straight thru to the inside where the hose from the pump is attached.
Good repair:
What is needed:
6" length of same diameter tubing as wiper arm hose.
Several small vaccuum line connectors (Small enough to fit hose)
Large screwdriver
Drill
Drill bit slightly larger than hose diameter.
1. Remove wiper arm. Careful prying with large screwdriver.
2. Remove inside trim panel.
3. Reach inside and remove washer hose from wiper arm surround.
(Careful, washer fluid really stings when it gets in the eyes)
4. Drill out old tube location.
(Don't worry if you're not perfect. The only tell-tale signs will be hidden)
5. Push new hose inside the hole you just drilled.
6. Connect NEW hose to OLD.
7. Pull NEW hose until splice touches wiper arm surround.
8. Snip off end of wiper arm hose.
(Broken plastic piece is inside. Easiest to lop it off)
9. Reinstall wiper arm.
10. Loop NEW hose around wiper arm end (to the left and underneath)
11. Connect NEW with OLD on the UNDERSIDE of arm.
(Trimming the NEW hose to length will be needed)
You want a bit of slack in the new tube to allow the wiper arm to pivot without the new hose binding or kinking.
Here are some pics to better explain the "looping"
Sorry for the blurriness..was getting dark.
OOPS....
Almost forgot....
12. Re-attach interior trim panel.
13. TEST.
Main problem is the tube goes straight thru to the inside where the hose from the pump is attached.
Good repair:
What is needed:
6" length of same diameter tubing as wiper arm hose.
Several small vaccuum line connectors (Small enough to fit hose)
Large screwdriver
Drill
Drill bit slightly larger than hose diameter.
1. Remove wiper arm. Careful prying with large screwdriver.
2. Remove inside trim panel.
3. Reach inside and remove washer hose from wiper arm surround.
(Careful, washer fluid really stings when it gets in the eyes)
4. Drill out old tube location.
(Don't worry if you're not perfect. The only tell-tale signs will be hidden)
5. Push new hose inside the hole you just drilled.
6. Connect NEW hose to OLD.
7. Pull NEW hose until splice touches wiper arm surround.
8. Snip off end of wiper arm hose.
(Broken plastic piece is inside. Easiest to lop it off)
9. Reinstall wiper arm.
10. Loop NEW hose around wiper arm end (to the left and underneath)
11. Connect NEW with OLD on the UNDERSIDE of arm.
(Trimming the NEW hose to length will be needed)
You want a bit of slack in the new tube to allow the wiper arm to pivot without the new hose binding or kinking.
Here are some pics to better explain the "looping"
Sorry for the blurriness..was getting dark.
OOPS....
Almost forgot....
12. Re-attach interior trim panel.
13. TEST.
#3
Newbie
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Iowa
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
A thought came to me regarding the drill bit size:
I have a chain saw that has a plastic fuel tank, and a rubber fuel line that comes out the side of it to the carburetor. The fuel line is actually larger in diameter than the hole in the tank. To get it through, you cut the end of the line at a sharp diagonal.
Slip this end through the hole, then pull from the other side, stretching the line simultaneously. This makes the line smaller when stretched, allowing you to place it just right, then when you let go, it balloons up a little, sealing the hole. I couldn't believe it either, but the tank doesn't leak and it worked easily.
Now I haven't tried this on a Jeep, but the principle works and you might want to give it a shot. Just start by drilling the hole slightly smaller than the line. Be sure to trim any sharp bits of course. If it doesn't work, you can always drill it one size up.
I have a chain saw that has a plastic fuel tank, and a rubber fuel line that comes out the side of it to the carburetor. The fuel line is actually larger in diameter than the hole in the tank. To get it through, you cut the end of the line at a sharp diagonal.
Slip this end through the hole, then pull from the other side, stretching the line simultaneously. This makes the line smaller when stretched, allowing you to place it just right, then when you let go, it balloons up a little, sealing the hole. I couldn't believe it either, but the tank doesn't leak and it worked easily.
Now I haven't tried this on a Jeep, but the principle works and you might want to give it a shot. Just start by drilling the hole slightly smaller than the line. Be sure to trim any sharp bits of course. If it doesn't work, you can always drill it one size up.
Last edited by WhiteJeep93; 12-15-2009 at 04:42 PM. Reason: (Graphic didn't work out)
#4
Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: omaha
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Liter H.O.
Not to resurrect a dead post but this issue happened to me today, if you want to fix it using dealership parts its 55000302 for the bezel and 55154612 for the gasket. Not 100% sure that is right part number for gasket, but thats what the parts guy said, I know the part number for the bezel is right as I picked one up today, both gasket and bezel cost around $12 a piece from the dealer and can be found much cheaper online if you just google search those part numbers.
#5
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
rear washer
thanks for the info, finally found someone who was able to get me the bezel and gasket, for $8.00. soon as weather gets warmer here in ny, i'll do the repair. thanks again......
#6
I have yet to find an aftermarket supplier for the "wiper arm surround".
Main problem is the tube goes straight thru to the inside where the hose from the pump is attached.
Good repair:
What is needed:
6" length of same diameter tubing as wiper arm hose.
Several small vaccuum line connectors (Small enough to fit hose)
Large screwdriver
Drill
Drill bit slightly larger than hose diameter.
1. Remove wiper arm. Careful prying with large screwdriver.
2. Remove inside trim panel.
3. Reach inside and remove washer hose from wiper arm surround.
(Careful, washer fluid really stings when it gets in the eyes)
4. Drill out old tube location.
(Don't worry if you're not perfect. The only tell-tale signs will be hidden)
5. Push new hose inside the hole you just drilled.
6. Connect NEW hose to OLD.
7. Pull NEW hose until splice touches wiper arm surround.
8. Snip off end of wiper arm hose.
(Broken plastic piece is inside. Easiest to lop it off)
9. Reinstall wiper arm.
10. Loop NEW hose around wiper arm end (to the left and underneath)
11. Connect NEW with OLD on the UNDERSIDE of arm.
(Trimming the NEW hose to length will be needed)
You want a bit of slack in the new tube to allow the wiper arm to pivot without the new hose binding or kinking.
Here are some pics to better explain the "looping"
Sorry for the blurriness..was getting dark.
OOPS....
Almost forgot....
12. Re-attach interior trim panel.
13. TEST.
Main problem is the tube goes straight thru to the inside where the hose from the pump is attached.
Good repair:
What is needed:
6" length of same diameter tubing as wiper arm hose.
Several small vaccuum line connectors (Small enough to fit hose)
Large screwdriver
Drill
Drill bit slightly larger than hose diameter.
1. Remove wiper arm. Careful prying with large screwdriver.
2. Remove inside trim panel.
3. Reach inside and remove washer hose from wiper arm surround.
(Careful, washer fluid really stings when it gets in the eyes)
4. Drill out old tube location.
(Don't worry if you're not perfect. The only tell-tale signs will be hidden)
5. Push new hose inside the hole you just drilled.
6. Connect NEW hose to OLD.
7. Pull NEW hose until splice touches wiper arm surround.
8. Snip off end of wiper arm hose.
(Broken plastic piece is inside. Easiest to lop it off)
9. Reinstall wiper arm.
10. Loop NEW hose around wiper arm end (to the left and underneath)
11. Connect NEW with OLD on the UNDERSIDE of arm.
(Trimming the NEW hose to length will be needed)
You want a bit of slack in the new tube to allow the wiper arm to pivot without the new hose binding or kinking.
Here are some pics to better explain the "looping"
Sorry for the blurriness..was getting dark.
OOPS....
Almost forgot....
12. Re-attach interior trim panel.
13. TEST.
#7
The bezel for the later Cherokees is a little different than the 55000302, but the 55000302 can still be used with a little work. The side toward the door is straight from the nipple . The 55000302 is thicker at the nipple and at the end opposite the nipple. I just used a disk sander and continued the profile from the nipple end down to make the other end much thinner.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)