Doesn't this turn the shock eye 90 degrees from it's original position?

Wouldn't the two ends then be working against each other, pivoting in different directions?

I have given this a good bit of thought, & would rather see two pieces of angle iron used on either side.

 

dangit i thought i had it figured out, now buckshot has gone and confused me

 

It doesnt matter that the top of the shock is turned 90 deg. Alittle bindage helps to a point, not sure why but ive seen it done many times on very build rigs.

 

Another suggestion........STM's..

http://www.detoursusa.com/xjstm.php

 

The side that I tapped lightly with a hammer came out no problem whereas the side that I didn't snapped right off.

I used the punch with 3 lb. sledge and it took about 10 minutes per bolt to knock the welds free.

Once they were punched out I threaded the mechanics wire onto the bottom six or so threads of my 5/16th bolt with lock washer leaving a little pigtail hook and then ran a looped piece of wire thru the small hole to the larger access hole.

It was really simple, just hook it on to the bolt with lock washer and pull it the 8 or so inches thru the hole. Unscrew the threaded wire off the bolt and Repeat.

It was much easier than cutting a hole thru the floor !

I am using JK Rubicon shocks so they already have the bar pins.
Grade 8 hardware and antiseize lube should help keep them from binding up but I don't plan on installing shocks again anytime soon.

 

agreed. Cutting a hole in the floor to mount a shock is retarded IMO.

 

I have these (the 1.5 inch ones), they came with a second hand lift i bought online (used, but never installed, had parts from several companies). Very well made, never have to worry about the factory mounting bolts again.

 

Thankyou for the positive feedback, they can be welded in place as well as bolted. I've developed STM's for the front shocks as well, basically will be offered as cheaters......

 

after cutting the stock shock mounts off my 44 and raising them up the shocks that came with my rc 6.5" la lift were way too long and i didnt feel like buying new ones since its just a trail rig (i know not a good angle bla bla bla )but i made a mount out of 1.5x1.5" 1/8th" wall square tube and some flat plate and bolted it on where the factory bumpstops went works like a champ and cost less than $10 only thing im gonna change is im gonna make a new one out of thicker metal to be on the safe side and put a little less angle on the shocks i just dont wanna use my shocks for bumpstops

 

I was going to do a similiar set up on a CJ project at one time, but then a friend schooled me on shocks & how they work internally.......I knew he was involved in racing & raced in the X Games, but I never knew he was their shock man.........anyway, tilting the shocks is counter productive it turns out, they're designed to/and are valved to work in the virtical position, as virtical as possible.......I never knew......Your install looks nice & clean though.

 

thanks man yeah i did the research after i did the install and found that out and lots of people have told me so but the only other option was to cut the floor and run em into the cab and that wasnt happening lol and im too cheap to buy new shocks when these came with my lift but if someone wanted to do a small lift and not have to buy new shocks doing this and mounting them vertical could save someone from buying new shocks and ditch the stock mounting points also eliminates the barpin so you have more shock options

 

I got lucky......and got unexpectedly schooled prior to my install......lol

I was going to go thru my floor as well with my XJ, but have since decided not to......I dont have a solution, we all want travel, and we want clearance as well.........I may try a set of 2" extended shocks off a TJ and connect at the base of the axle, instead of center........I think I can create/incorperate a skid plate to protect the connection.

 

My ooooooold ghetto fabulous set up shock hoop...lol

 

Well, theres a solution...........

 

Mine broke so i drilled it out and used a self tapping bolt from auto zone worked fine. Dont go cutting floorboards thats just stupid.