Rear Shackle Removal - Concern w/Tow Package
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 24
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From: Charlotte, NC
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Guys,
I'm in the process of doing my homework under my 94 XJ for what I need in preparation to install my 2" BB.
I would post in the "lift" section, BUT the question has less to do with the lift per se as I'm not there yet and more to do with potential interference I've noticed with the rear shackle (top bolt) and the fact that I have the tow package which looks like its hiding something I'll need access to.
Let's say I just want to replace a broken, stock shackle or remove a factory tow receiver. Anyone replace a shackle, remove the tow receiver, etc.? To remove that top bolt on the shackle, I assume (hope I'm wrong) there's a nut on the other end that I'll need to access? Any tricks/tips on removing the receiver to access that bolt if that's the case?
Thanks.
I'm in the process of doing my homework under my 94 XJ for what I need in preparation to install my 2" BB.
I would post in the "lift" section, BUT the question has less to do with the lift per se as I'm not there yet and more to do with potential interference I've noticed with the rear shackle (top bolt) and the fact that I have the tow package which looks like its hiding something I'll need access to.
Let's say I just want to replace a broken, stock shackle or remove a factory tow receiver. Anyone replace a shackle, remove the tow receiver, etc.? To remove that top bolt on the shackle, I assume (hope I'm wrong) there's a nut on the other end that I'll need to access? Any tricks/tips on removing the receiver to access that bolt if that's the case?
Thanks.
Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 104
Likes: 1
From: Rocky Mountain House, Alberta, Canada
Year: 1988 & 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6
The nut on the other side of that shackle bolt is welded inside the frame so you don't have to remove the hitch unless you either break the bolt off or the nut breaks away from it's welds
Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 104
Likes: 1
From: Rocky Mountain House, Alberta, Canada
Year: 1988 & 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6
Originally Posted by Rudy
The nut on the other side of that shackle bolt is welded inside the frame so you don't have to remove the hitch unless you either break the bolt off or the nut breaks away from it's welds
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 24
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From: Charlotte, NC
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Great, thanks...the less I have to take apart, the better. Think its just the rear shackle at this point I'd be removing too.
So far, this 94 XJ has been relatively rust free other than some floor pan issues due to leaks. Benefit of being in North Carolina.
So far, this 94 XJ has been relatively rust free other than some floor pan issues due to leaks. Benefit of being in North Carolina.
^ don't praise it yet... I've seen some of the cleanest XJ's have problems with those bolts. Before you go searching for the 3ft breaker bar, break out the torch and heat that puppy up. Mine was in rough shape but finally gave up after some heat. Just be careful of the carpet in your hatch area, the rubber undercoating of the carpet will cause it to shrink if it gets too hot; ask me how I know...
Seasoned Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 464
Likes: 0
From: las vegas
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
im installing new lift shackles and i been reading on this site a few different things. i was wondering if by cutting into the frame a little will weaken it too much? and what if i cant get the old shackle bolts off and i just cut the whole shackle off and the old bolts and remove the factory welded nut my self and feed a new bolt and nut through the hole and just tighten the nut that way without welding it to frame. would that be a go for it and be strong enough?
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Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: Charlotte, NC
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Just did mine tonight (finally). What I did was instead of removing the bumper (gave up), I pulled back the carpet in the cargo area and drilled a couple large holes in the floor pan above where the upper bolt hides in the frame. Every time I thought about it for 24 hours I sprayed it with PB.
Today, I got the 25" breaker bar out, 13/16th socket and went to town. All I got was a lot of loud "breaking" sounds, however the bolt did spin without affecting the nut welded to the frame.
I read somewhere about heat...so, I heated the bolt up with a propane torch (bolt head side, not nut) and then took the breaker bar and loosened/tightened back and forth what little progress I had made. The "breaking" sound pretty much stopped and with some muscle the bolts backed right out with no damage.
I think the combo saved me here...when you inspect the bolt, the middle part did not see any PB, but had some rust powder on it. The threads were wet with PB. So, the PB I think saved the nut from breaking loose from the frame and the heat unstuck the rust bond inside the bushing sleeve that I think was the ultimate culprit.
Hope this helps.
Today, I got the 25" breaker bar out, 13/16th socket and went to town. All I got was a lot of loud "breaking" sounds, however the bolt did spin without affecting the nut welded to the frame.
I read somewhere about heat...so, I heated the bolt up with a propane torch (bolt head side, not nut) and then took the breaker bar and loosened/tightened back and forth what little progress I had made. The "breaking" sound pretty much stopped and with some muscle the bolts backed right out with no damage.
I think the combo saved me here...when you inspect the bolt, the middle part did not see any PB, but had some rust powder on it. The threads were wet with PB. So, the PB I think saved the nut from breaking loose from the frame and the heat unstuck the rust bond inside the bushing sleeve that I think was the ultimate culprit.
Hope this helps.
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