jlb586

Hi,

Looks like I 'm leaving a bit of gear oil in the drive way here.

Took a look underneath and appears (or at least from what I have read) is that my rear pinion seal is shot.

I have a few questions that I hope anyone could answer...

-What part store (or part#) did you buy for the seal? I've searched a few of the auto store site's and don't see any pinion seals for the rear that go with the Chrysler 8.25

-Same question for the pinion nut. I'm assuming mine will be very tough to remove, so obviously I should replace it...

...and finally.....

-I don't have an impact gun/air compressor to remove the pinion nut -- Any tips or tricks to removing it?

Any help and/or insight would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks.
-jb

austinjoe13

It's a really easy job. Pull the driveshaft, undo the nut, pull the yoke, pry the old seal out, tap the new one in, and put everything back together. Since you don't have an impact, use a 1/2" breaker with a cheater bar if you need it.

I just found two or three seals on rock auto for the C8.25...

This is a sub-hour job even for a newbie

jlb586

Thanks For the reply...!

OK sounds like a snap. I only asked about specifics to the 8.25 because I searched autozone. They are near by. I did see the ones on rock auto, but I wasn't sure how long I want to put this off ( you know waaait for shipping). I did see one for the 8.25 at O'Reilly, but they need to spec. order also. I did find on in stock at Advance auto, just wasn't sure if other recommend a specific brand or such.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...m=pinion+seal#

However, I'm having a tough time finding a pinion shaft nut for the 8.25. Almost all (in stock nearby) seem to be dana's.

austinjoe13

O'Rielly's ships overnight if you get there soon enough. And why do you need a new nut?

jlb586

Hey - thanks.

Ummm..I though it would be a good idea to put a new nut down, but you are the 2nd person to say that it is not necessary.

Do you not recommend the Advance brand (National)?

Do you recall the size of the pinion nut...1 1/4 sound about right?

Also if I don't have a ft/lbs torque wrench am I just able to mark the position and count the visible threads (saw it in a youtube video) to get close the the last torque specs?

Do you think thread sealer on the pinion nut is needed?

Now all I think I need are new u-join straps (Chilton says not to re-use the old ones)

Thanks!
-jb

austinjoe13

See if Fel-Pro makes a seal for it, they make really good seals. And I've only done it on a D30 and 8.8, idk about the chrysler. I'm not sure about thread locker. If you wheel it hard get the U-Bolt yoke kit instead

peterk

Yes, mark it, count turns/threads. The fellow who replaced my pinion bearings had to re-do the seal, and this method worked for him.

jlb586

Hi there,

This would be the seal I want...

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...ar+pinion+seal

...I need to be able to find it locally and just pick it up.

No need to change the u-bolt, no trailing over here. She's my DD and just trying to keep her from leaking.

Thanks guys.
-jb

jlb586

Found the part at NAPA for 18$.

gonna need some u joint straps and 80w-90 and Im ready to gooo!

One more tho - do ya'll use a puller to get the yoke out or just use your hands? read it's not a press fit so she should just slide on off...

thanks
-jb

austinjoe13

You shouldn't. Get some anti-seize and coat all the threads and the inside of the yoke in case you have to open it up again. And if you do any towing get 75w-140

jlb586

OK bout ready to go for tommow!



Except, my u-joint staprs says to lube before installing...lube with what? Grease? Gear Oil? AntiSeize (i read someone using antiseize as lube)...?


Thanks
-jb

jlb586

OK,

Trouble with the pinion nut.



You can clearly see that my marks on the diff and the yoke have moved. This is because I'm trying to remove the nut but the yoke keeps turning too!!

Any advice to get the yoke from turning while trying to remove the nut? I have the back wheels chocked, the e-brake on, and tires on the ground....??





And once I get the nut off and finish the seal up, how do I get my marks on the diff case and yoke back aligned? Or does that not matter..?

Am I only lining up the marks on the but to the yoke, and the diff case to the drive shaft? Or do they ALL need to be in-line?

belvedere

I know I'm going to be in the minority here, but I'll say it anyway. The 8.25 uses a crush sleeve, so tightening the pinion nut is not so simple as a diff that uses a spacer. The correct procedure is to jack up the rear axle, remove the wheels and drums, and measure the torque required to turn the pinion nut using an inch-pound beam-style torque wrench. Then after seal replacement, you tighten the nut in small increments until you duplicate the original reading. Sounds like others have used alternate methods with success, and that's fine, but this is the correct procedure according to any FSM I've seen.

jlb586

Well, I appreciate the info. Maybe too little too late..

I read many posts and seen videos of individuals just doing the seal and not the crush sleeve. If I line everything back up before dis assembly, it should be good.

Problem now is I'm clearly all out of wack.

If I could, I guess I could just figure out how (somebody any body..??) get my marks back together and live with the leaky seal until I let a garage do it.

How can I get my lines back in order and call it a day?

thanks
-jb

jlb586

Towel is thrown...I'll live with a leak. Just add gear oil every few days...

I feel so defeated right now. I might even start questioning my ability to change my own oil...

thanks to all tho.
-jb