rear main seal replacement
#1
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Model: Cherokee
rear main seal replacement
so i started to replace the rms on my 91 4.0. I got the old one out no problem but now i am on my second seal and can not get it in. i took a chunk off the first one on install not huge but to be safe i bought a new one. Now this one i have torn a small piece there is no dip just a tear on the top 90 degrees from the lips. Ok so what am i missing? i have used soap and grease both to lube it i got the second seal over 3/4 of the way in then it got hung up I tried to push in on the hung up part and keep it moving but still tore some. how much damage can they take before they will leak? i really don't want to buy a new seal.
#3
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO Straight Six
I hate to say it but I'd buy a third one and give it another shot. It'd be VERY unfortunate for you to put it all back together, fill it up with oil, take it for a drive and find out it's still leaking. Then have to buy a third one and go through the trouble of tearing it all apart again.
#7
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Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I soaked mine in motor oil. This may sound weird but they make a brush for cleaning out the nipple on a baby bottle that has stiff plastic bristles. You can find them with a wire handle. I used one to clean out the groove for my RMS. Worked really well. Also squirt some oil up in there before you start pushing the seal through.
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#8
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
Ok, so you go the 91. you buy the two piece seal from Jeep dealer?
I highly recommend you do. If you have, disregard statement.
Now, here is what i did, and it was only 20 degreees outside so bear with me. (god was it cold workin under there!) anyway, I used a long cable tie 24" with a small piece of scotchbrite pad that was soaked in oil. I fed the cable tie lengthwise through the scotchbrite pad peice ( you have to cut the pad to just barely over the width of the seal opening for the upper half and about 4 inches long.) I then used a see-saw motion with the cable tie while the pad was in the upper section of the seal fitting area. (after i removed the old seal that is, guess i forgot to say that in the beginning, I presume you used a brass punch to get the old one out?, if you didnt you may have marred up the raceway surface.), anyway I did this with several pieces and then using another cable tie (again 24" long, but narrow), with a rage soaked in alchohol, I dried out the raceway , then used compressed air to blow anything else out. After that, I lubed the hell out of the upper piece and used vaseline on the opening of the side of the raceway i was starting the upper piece of the seal to feed into. at this pint i was able to slowly feed the seal in by hand. when I met resistance i could not use m hand to push, i then used needlenose pliers and gently coaxed the seal in. when I got to a point where there was maybe an 1/8" or 1/16" left protruding, I then used th brass punch to seat the seal in.
NOw, That process worked for me, maybe because it was so cold out, I got lucky, i dont know, but I do know it went in and I have not had even a drip since (that was 2004).
Best of luck to you sir!
Cheers!
Cpnwrench
:smokin:
#9
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Ok i got my seal in. What are the torque specs on the mains? I loosened then all so is there a special sequence i need to torque them in? what are the torque specs on the pan bolts? And on the two halves of the seal are you supposed to use black rtv??
#10
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The number I found for the mains was 80ftlbs. Please don't quote me on that, I just mention it since I am doing the same thing tomorrow myself. Provided I can get the dang old one out.
#11
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I figured it was something like that for some reason 90 sticks in my mind. I loosened all my crank main bolts froze my seal for over a day and used alot of vaseline. To get the old one out use a punch and tap it out use the biggest punch that will fit inside the recess without touching the sides. i found it was easier to hit the wire inside the seal so it wood oush it out
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