so i started to replace the rms on my 91 4.0. I got the old one out no problem but now i am on my second seal and can not get it in. i took a chunk off the first one on install not huge but to be safe i bought a new one. Now this one i have torn a small piece there is no dip just a tear on the top 90 degrees from the lips. Ok so what am i missing? i have used soap and grease both to lube it i got the second seal over 3/4 of the way in then it got hung up I tried to push in on the hung up part and keep it moving but still tore some. how much damage can they take before they will leak? i really don't want to buy a new seal.

 

Moved to OEM Tech.

 

I hate to say it but I'd buy a third one and give it another shot. It'd be VERY unfortunate for you to put it all back together, fill it up with oil, take it for a drive and find out it's still leaking. Then have to buy a third one and go through the trouble of tearing it all apart again.

 

I figured that. This is seriously frustrating i got it almost in then it just catches and nothing i do woll push it in far enough to clear

 

If it starts to catch, don't force it! Stop what you're doing and just keep on lubin'

 

If it does catch what do i do? I tried backing it out and pushing on the pot where its catchin as it goes in but thats obviously not working

 

I soaked mine in motor oil. This may sound weird but they make a brush for cleaning out the nipple on a baby bottle that has stiff plastic bristles. You can find them with a wire handle. I used one to clean out the groove for my RMS. Worked really well. Also squirt some oil up in there before you start pushing the seal through.

 

Ok, so you go the 91. you buy the two piece seal from Jeep dealer?

I highly recommend you do. If you have, disregard statement.

Now, here is what i did, and it was only 20 degreees outside so bear with me. (god was it cold workin under there!) anyway, I used a long cable tie 24" with a small piece of scotchbrite pad that was soaked in oil. I fed the cable tie lengthwise through the scotchbrite pad peice ( you have to cut the pad to just barely over the width of the seal opening for the upper half and about 4 inches long.) I then used a see-saw motion with the cable tie while the pad was in the upper section of the seal fitting area. (after i removed the old seal that is, guess i forgot to say that in the beginning, I presume you used a brass punch to get the old one out?, if you didnt you may have marred up the raceway surface.), anyway I did this with several pieces and then using another cable tie (again 24" long, but narrow), with a rage soaked in alchohol, I dried out the raceway , then used compressed air to blow anything else out. After that, I lubed the hell out of the upper piece and used vaseline on the opening of the side of the raceway i was starting the upper piece of the seal to feed into. at this pint i was able to slowly feed the seal in by hand. when I met resistance i could not use m hand to push, i then used needlenose pliers and gently coaxed the seal in. when I got to a point where there was maybe an 1/8" or 1/16" left protruding, I then used th brass punch to seat the seal in.
NOw, That process worked for me, maybe because it was so cold out, I got lucky, i dont know, but I do know it went in and I have not had even a drip since (that was 2004).

Best of luck to you sir!

Cheers!

Cpnwrench

:smokin:

 

Ok i got my seal in. What are the torque specs on the mains? I loosened then all so is there a special sequence i need to torque them in? what are the torque specs on the pan bolts? And on the two halves of the seal are you supposed to use black rtv??

 

The number I found for the mains was 80ftlbs. Please don't quote me on that, I just mention it since I am doing the same thing tomorrow myself. Provided I can get the dang old one out.

 

I figured it was something like that for some reason 90 sticks in my mind. I loosened all my crank main bolts froze my seal for over a day and used alot of vaseline. To get the old one out use a punch and tap it out use the biggest punch that will fit inside the recess without touching the sides. i found it was easier to hit the wire inside the seal so it wood oush it out