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Rear Main Seal Issues

Old Feb 13, 2020 | 06:59 PM
  #121  
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Default Is this problematic? Chipped rear main bearing cap (see picture)

About to replace my rear main seal.

Is this going to cause problems? Should I install it like this?
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Old Feb 13, 2020 | 09:15 PM
  #122  
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If you're talking about the edges where it looks like someone pried on it, I would carefully round any of the edges if they're sticking up. If you're missing the lower half of the bearing, yeah that'd be a problem. :}
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Old Feb 14, 2020 | 04:11 AM
  #123  
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This has been an entertaining read.

Given the amount of posts I’d say this has stressed you out to the max!

I hope you were able to get it back together ok.

if you were anywhere near New England I would have invited you over to help with this...lol.
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Old Feb 14, 2020 | 09:00 PM
  #124  
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Originally Posted by BigNuge
This has been an entertaining read.

Given the amount of posts I’d say this has stressed you out to the max!

I hope you were able to get it back together ok.

if you were anywhere near New England I would have invited you over to help with this...lol.
I would have taken you up on that offer! So stressful. But so happy when the seal came out. Now I may have another problem. I just got the seal it. It looks like the seal doesnt perfectly fit the end. You can see th little black space in the picture. Is this problematic?

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Old Feb 14, 2020 | 09:08 PM
  #125  
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Default Rear main pain

Just got my new seal in. One part looks like it doest fit the edges of the block, and the other side already has the metal showing from hammering it in. Is this going to cause leaks?

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Old Feb 14, 2020 | 09:50 PM
  #126  
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You are good. Just put on the rtv, a very tiny amount, on the seal and slap it back together.
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Old Feb 14, 2020 | 11:59 PM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
I don't think I've ever found a 4.0 that the valve cover bolts weren't snug, especially the rearmost ones......

This^^ falls in the "JUST DO IT" category.
Very true and totally agree... also it's easy to over tighten those valve cover bolts too.. I remember when I did mine, I was surprised when I saw the torque spec. Is very low. Just want to snug them...not crush the gasket.
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Old Feb 15, 2020 | 04:06 AM
  #128  
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Originally Posted by 5-Speed
You are good. Just put on the rtv, a very tiny amount, on the seal and slap it back together.
Way I showered to put rtv on the underside of the lower seal that sticks out here and meets the oil pan gasket? Is it going to be a problem if that part dries overnight and then I add the oil pan gasket with fresh rtv the next day? Will rtv seal to RTV?
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Old Feb 15, 2020 | 04:08 AM
  #129  
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Originally Posted by AlSpeciale
Way I showered to put rtv on the underside of the lower seal that sticks out here and meets the oil pan gasket? Is it going to be a problem if that part dries overnight and then I add the oil pan gasket with fresh rtv the next day? Will rtv seal to RTV?
I meant to say, was I supposed to put**** and here is the picture of what I'm talking about

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Old Feb 15, 2020 | 01:06 PM
  #130  
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If you are going to let it dry, once dry, scrape off the excess rtv with a small screw driver. Then before you put the pan gasket back on, apply more rtv to the same area on both sides.
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Old Feb 15, 2020 | 01:37 PM
  #131  
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Originally Posted by 5-Speed
If you are going to let it dry, once dry, scrape off the excess rtv with a small screw driver. Then before you put the pan gasket back on, apply more rtv to the same area on both sides.
Thanks. on the oil pan gasket shoul I be using "RTV gasket maker" or "gasket sealant"
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Old Feb 15, 2020 | 03:01 PM
  #132  
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Default Oil pan bolts


little cracks on threads. Is this going to result in a leak? Should I get new ones?
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Old Feb 15, 2020 | 07:04 PM
  #133  
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you'll be fine. the majority of what you're seeing goes past the block. the gasket makes the seal bud
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Old Feb 15, 2020 | 09:59 PM
  #134  
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Use the same stuff you just used on the rear main seal. Should be the sealant. Gasket maker never really dries and is intended more toward cork gaskets.
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Old Feb 15, 2020 | 11:26 PM
  #135  
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I have read and seen that the pan bolts are subject to stripping out the female thread, so I would be inclined to replace any damaged bolts, and follow the FSM, which I believe recomends an Inch pound Torque wrench setting. (Could be wrong about the inch pound setting..its not much though)
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