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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
So I've a stock 2000 XJ that was run through a mud hole, sucked the engine full of water and hydro-locked it; not my doing. I've got all the water run out of her and got the ol girl runnin again. But the rear main is blown out of it now and leaks like a stuck pig when she runs, does the transmission have to come out to replace that seal?
No it doesn't but its best too if you sucked water in. Did you change the oil? I'd be taking the oil pan out and be checking everything not just the rear main.
On naxja, a guy by the name of torx has a build thread and he's got a detailed section in the thread of changing out the rear main seal. Lots of pics
Yea I changed the oil and pulled the plugs, there ain't no more water in it. Just leaks real bad outta the rear main now, runs though.
Why don't you VERIFY that leak?
I'd be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF.
Everybody, who doesn't own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking.
Many mechanics, friends, people on Jeep forums who can’t see your Jeep from where they’re at, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it?
A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don't jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat.
Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons.
First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area. Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber's adage apply here. "$hit flows downhill".
Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first.
If you're confident it's a rear main seal - the parts are like $40 for the two piece RMS and the anaerobic RTV - add another $20 approx for a new oil pan gasket - (which I really recommend doing while you have the pan off) and $4 for some black RTV if you don't already have some handy. Would also recommend buying a set of *brass* (emphasis on brass) punches that will fit in the end of a socket extension (or you can buy longer punches - which is more $$$) to make life so much easier tapping out the upper half of the RMS. The brass won't score the block.
Since you have a 2000 you need the RMS version that doesn't have the "wings" on the lower half - it should look like a perfect circle (two pieces, again). In 2000 they changed the design of the RMS to get rid of the wings - and darnit if the new version isn't 2x as expensive as the old version (I always assumed this is because there was less of them made).
As cruiser54 said, you should be sure it's your RMS before doing this job. I definitely wouldn't want to do it if it could be avoided (not so hard as it is messy and tedious). You can buy those cheap UV dye kits at Advance Auto to test for the location of your leak.
I can't see it leakin from nowhere else, only place she's wet it around the Rear Main, leaks a steady stream when runnin' right where that seal is. You sure the Seals are different??
I can't see it leakin from nowhere else, only place she's wet it around the Rear Main, leaks a steady stream when runnin' right where that seal is. You sure the Seals are different??
If you've got a mid to late 2000 or a 2001 XJ, you're going to need the newer seal without the wings. I found out after I had everything apart that I got the old seal for my 2000 XJ. Had to return it and get the right one before I could proceed.
Damnit. I have one with the wings on it already, got it for an '87 and never used it before I sold it. So guess I'll find out when I get her apart, about to go start on it
My 88 used the old style so you can pretty much say 87-mid 00 there.
Have to check my 00 now, early seal was $26 ... Hope I get lucky, but she ain't leaking yet anyway.
It has to be the stuff that does not need to be exposed to air to cure. I used the above linked stuff on mine and I have not had leaks 4 months out (knock on wood).
My 88 used the old style so you can pretty much say 87-mid 00 there.
Have to check my 00 now, early seal was $26 ... Hope I get lucky, but she ain't leaking yet anyway.
Damnit. I have one with the wings on it already, got it for an '87 and never used it before I sold it. So guess I'll find out when I get her apart, about to go start on it
I would drop the oil pan and remove that completely then let it sit for the night and actually work on the RMS tomorrow personally. I tried to do it all at once - the oil pan removal is a PIA in and of itself. Plus if you let it sit overnight with the oil pan removed you won't get dripped on while you work on the RMS.
09-24-2014, 07:25 PM
Rear Main Seal blown
