Rear main seal
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
MJ>XJ
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 17,836
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From: Griffin, G.A.
Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
Originally Posted by cruiser54
7/16 socket. Use the FelPro blue gasket. easy.
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 4,440
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From: Seal Beach, CA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO Straight Six
Hardest part of doing the valve cover gasket will be dettaching the CCV hoses or elbows (whichever you prefer). So here:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...ite-up-733669/
I'd suggest putting on new CCV grommets while you have the valve cover off.
And yes, get a Felpro gasket or you'll be doing this job again in a year
And yes, the rear main is probably the most difficult oil leak to fix. So if you can do that, the valve cover will be a walk in the park.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...ite-up-733669/
I'd suggest putting on new CCV grommets while you have the valve cover off.
And yes, get a Felpro gasket or you'll be doing this job again in a year
And yes, the rear main is probably the most difficult oil leak to fix. So if you can do that, the valve cover will be a walk in the park.
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,578
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran



Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 18,786
Likes: 14
From: CT.
Year: 88
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: 4.0 HO
Originally Posted by cruiser54
7/16 socket. Use the FelPro blue gasket. easy.
Stay away from the cheaper cork gasket. It sucks.
Actual name is FelPro Perma Dry. It's also reusable and do not use any rtv.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 338
Likes: 0
From: maine
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 straight 6
I tryed bars leak rear main sealer in my old jeep and it took quite awhile longer for the oil to burn off and become low i dident have to add any oil for a month and a half.
i figured the jeep was old anyways so id try it dont notice any serious harm.
Might start harder in the winter if u used it.
Im not saying its a cure all but i only spent maybe 10 bucks at most and ive already saved on oil
i figured the jeep was old anyways so id try it dont notice any serious harm.
Might start harder in the winter if u used it.
Im not saying its a cure all but i only spent maybe 10 bucks at most and ive already saved on oil
Last edited by 4wheeldrivenewbie; May 14, 2012 at 11:50 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,275
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From: North Carolina
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Gas
MJ>XJ
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 17,836
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From: Griffin, G.A.
Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
Originally Posted by HCCAFan
This is how I ended up doing mine two or three times in a row.
MJ>XJ
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 17,836
Likes: 7
From: Griffin, G.A.
Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
the little plastic thing that comes in the pack with the seal... or you can use a burger king straw... stick it in the side that your pushing... when it all gets tight the last little bit the block side will peel it back like a orange...
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 2,322
Likes: 1
From: Edmonton
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by huntingman2706217
the little plastic thing that comes in the pack with the seal... or you can use a burger king straw... stick it in the side that your pushing... when it all gets tight the last little bit the block side will peel it back like a orange...
MJ>XJ
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 17,836
Likes: 7
From: Griffin, G.A.
Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
negative... there is a youtube video showing you if thatll help... its like a 1in long piece of straw split down the middle on one side... that goes on the block side as you push the seal around the crank... the video helped me a lot...


