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Rear Hatch Struts

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Old Jun 27, 2024 | 10:27 PM
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From: Woodland, WA
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 Renix
Default Rear Hatch Struts

OK, feeling a little dumbass. 1990 Wagoneer- I removed a rear hatch lift strut in preparation for removing my headliner. Now I want to reattach it. What the heck am I missing. I tried with all of my 230 pounds to retract the strut by 1/2 inch and it is not moving. Can it really be that strong? Any tips for me here?
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Old Jun 28, 2024 | 09:12 AM
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First, the spam post has been reported. I suggest other report it too to get the user banned. The account was likely hijacked.

Is the hatched propped open all the way until it hits the stops in the hinge (don't force it)? On my '88, the opened hatch can still be lifted by hand, just enough to slide one of the strut ends off.
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Old Jun 28, 2024 | 09:25 AM
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Thank you. Yes, we pushed the hatch to its limit. The arm needs to retract roughly 1/2" -3/8" to get the cup over the ball stud.
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Old Jun 28, 2024 | 10:04 AM
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Well, those struts are pretty strong. I can only suggest to mount the end to the pillar and secure with the pin (if it uses one), then push the other end to compress it. You may need to use a towel as padding for your hand or maybe a small board to push with. Compress the strut a few inches and then quickly line up the hatch end as it extends. I had this on another vehicle and it took a few tries to time everything just right.

Was it difficult getting them off? Did they "pop" to full extension once you got them off the ball studs?
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Old Jun 28, 2024 | 12:16 PM
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Yes, that is the weird thing... It seemed to pop off with a moderate amount of force and then went full extension. They are newer replacement struts, so they would have full spring torque. I tried connecting to the boady first so that I had the larger cylinder portion to grasp, but wow! No movement.
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Old Jun 28, 2024 | 09:38 PM
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I seem to remember having similar issues with hydraulic shocks of various kinds, they seem to "lock out" at full extension

As far as I recall, just lubed up with wd40 or similar, and twisted and worked the upper strut with the lower firmly mounted, pump it, I guess there is an air lock, try inverting etc, maybe a valve partially frozen

I do recall thinking it took just the right application of force and movement, direct force was not a goer, as you just knew something was about to snap, and you would be luck not to be impaled or something

Are replacement or generic spares available ?
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Old Jun 30, 2024 | 04:03 PM
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a couple of real long zip ties can be your friend.....wrap it end to end , pull it tight, compress it and re-tighten z-ties...mount, remove zip ties.
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Old Jun 30, 2024 | 08:04 PM
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Yes, they are strong. It is nitrogen gas pressure inside the cylinder that makes them extend
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Old Jul 1, 2024 | 08:25 PM
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A well designed torsion spring or coil spring should have been used here. I have 60 year old cars with that, still work fine. New fangled structs are just a money pit, replacing them every few year do to leakage failures is a wasteful and expensive chore. Bring back springs!!!
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Old Jul 2, 2024 | 01:47 PM
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I understand your reasoning and I partially agree. However I have had some good luck with them too. NAPA struts for the hatch and hood strut kit from Quadratec from 08 still good
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