I just bought my 98 sport and I have the opposite problem my hatch wont stay closed on bumpy roads it always opens just enough for the lights to come on and I have to get out open and close it to shut theM off any ideas?

 

you might try to move tbe rubber bump stops .sort of shim it tighter. good luck

 

I gotta say that I just got my 2000 Cherokee last Saturday. Today the rear hatch wouldn't open.

Came here and did a search and this thread was the exact problem and solution for my rig.

I don't have the metal clips, instead I have a plastic piece that the whole rod threads through. I just made a quick adjustment and gave everything a good lube and now it works "just like buddah".

It actually took longer for me to boot the computer and search the forum than to complete the whole repair.

This site is great. Tons of good info and pics are always helpful.

 

01 Cherokee-ROD,liftgate handle to latch-55075860AB
LATCH,liftgate 55235643AC
hope this helps

 

First I want to say thanks. Your photo and explaination was very helpful. Just one thing I noticed on mine is that rod is not threaded, even though it looks like it is. They are actually ribs so I could not turn it up and down. I had to actually pull it out of the metal clip at the top and move it up. which can be done with the green clip still in place and rod still installed at the bottom. 5 years with out a hatch and now it finally works. It feels like a new car again.

 

thanks for this thread! Mine was jacked up years ago, my cousin had it fixed at some point in time, now it's a PITA again - have to hip check the hatch while pulling the lever, and the lever is loose to boot... time to get in there.

Oh, and the light is supposed to come on when the hatch is open...? Dammit, there's another thing to fix. I thought I was slowly picking away at the list. (still have to bleed the brakes - got new fronts on last night - change loob for axles, trans, TC, power steering; wire up headlights... got a helluva list of things to do for a vehicle that is running and driving great)

 

Amazing input here, but how'd you all get the rear panel to pull away so that you could access the bits? I have bloody fingers and have hacked an ugly hole in the rear hatch cover and have called it quits until I can do a nicer cutting job - there is no way I'm strong enough to pull that cover away - any tips or am I just a wimp?

 

The panel is held on by screws around the glass and mostly hidden snap fasteners on the bottom and sides. The nylon snap slides into "U" shaped grooves in the PVC panel and snap into holes in the inner panel of the sheet metal hatch.

After removing the handle, a sharp pull will unsnap the fasteners, one at a time. There's a 70% chance of the fastener coming free of the sheet metal and a 30% chance of the U in the panel failing.

A damp cloth will remove the blood.

 

Thanks! I almost cut a big hole so you've saved my XJ some surgery...

 

I had to cut a big hole in my '98. The rear hatch was jammed shut and I couldn't get the panel off with it closed.

 

The OP suggested pulling at the panel just below the window to access the latch rod. Worked for me, twice.

 

Upper steel clip was a problem

 

If you cannot pull the interior panel, you CAN open the hatch by getting on your back under the bumper. By removing the nuts that hold the loop part of the latch to the body, you can open the rear hatch. I have an after market bumper, so these were not hard to access. I did need a breaker bar to get them loose.

I reinforced the plastic clip with a small SS radiator clamp instead of zip-ties.
It will ensure that it will stay tight, will not crack and will never come loose.

 

On the hatch, pull off the bottom left marker plate plastic mount and peek through the hole, just to the right and you'll see the hatch release rod.
Use a small screwdriver and pry up on the rod.
Pop. the hatch is open

You can see the marker plate plastic mount in this pic thanks to JSwamper in the first post.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/attach...1-65028112.jpg