Rlmx

Checking and double checking. Have watched several videos on refreshing drum brakes (Bleeping Jeep, Chris Fix It [going from memory, something like that]) and two others. Have read an article. Have a 91’ with a Dana 35 rear end. Also looked here and there on this forum.

May i please have input about gotchas or known issues with the drum brakes on the 91’ Cherokee Sport, 4L, 5 speed manual, non-abs. I am not a great mechanic, but want this to go smooth.

Thanks in advance.

Oswalla

Do one side at a time if your new to it. That way you can look at other side if your not sure what goes where. Smaller shoe goes on forward side.

Jeepin'_Aint_EZ

Take both rear wheels off and drums. Take only one side apart at a time and use the other side as your guide. Golden rule to drum brakes.

Rlmx

Thank you! None of the videos said that.

EZEARL

One big problem I see mentioned a lot is not having components properly seated.

Jeepin'_Aint_EZ

good pair of vice-grips are nice to have too.

EEVEE

Also just something that should always be done and helps is take pictures of what they look like before leyroy jenkins it that way if you forget how they go pull up the pic and poof setup is all right there. Helped me numerous times. Tho idk if you want to get your phone dirty lol. Also If you dont have a spring tool i used a flat blade screwdriver to pull the spring over the notches, Makes life alot easier.

Jeepin'_Aint_EZ

Sure, you can also take a picture but before these fandangle camera pocket phones you simply left one side together while you disassembled the other. There's your picture.

4x4jeepmanthing

the springs are a bit fussy but get vice grips or something that grabs well to pull them off and on. otherwise if you have a picture of what goes where you should be fine. for the shoe springs that you have to push in and turn the retainer, i like using needle nose pliers and push them open by wedging my hand in between the pliers. other methods work but as a limited tooling method this works fine, and it leaves one hand open to hold the pin still on the backing plate.
its not a tough job dont sweat it, anyone can do it with some patience and a couple types of pliers.
on a side note its not a bad idea to clean up down there with a small wire brush and some brake cleaner- if you care to hit the whole area like your brushing your teeth lol. particularly clean the metal tab that sits between each shoe, just for ease of movement.

good luck man, you got this!

'90Cherokee

Many good suggestions already given, I'll add a couple. First thing is to inspect everything, springs aren't broken, adjuster wheel teeth are good, nothing's bent/broken. Ideally just replace all that stuff, but if it's all in good shape it can be re-used. Check the cylinders for signs of brake fluid leakage out the rubber boots. A little damp isn't a huge deal. Check for gear oil leakage around the axle, again, some dampness is normal. Then clean it all up. I generally use compressed air but you can water wash it if you don't have a compressor. Re-inspect the springs & stuff after cleaning unless you're replacing it all.

There's two cheap tools I use that make life much easier. One is a tool to remove/install the round springs that hold the shoes onto the backing plate. It generally has a screwdriver type handle with round cups sticking out each end, one smaller than the other. Not a huge deal if you don't have it, but it's cheap and makes it easier. The other is a combination tool to remove/install the other springs. It looks kinda like a pair of pliers but with really odd stuff on it. This tool is almost a must have. It makes the springs so much easier to deal with and cuts down greatly on the bleeding and cussing you're likely to encounter when fighting them with screwdrivers & pliers. It also saves the springs from damage. I've seen broken springs that had obvious damage inflicted by an installer.