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Rear brake question

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Old 03-11-2014, 12:39 PM
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Default Rear brake question

98 xj, not a daily driver.

Quick back story. Last summer I replaced drums, shoes and hardware. Recently one of my cylinders leaked. I replaced both cylinders and since the shoes on one side were covered in brake fluid, I replaced the shoes on both sides but used the same drums since there was hardly any wear.

Today after driving I noticed one drum was hot to the touch the other was cool. Do you think the cool side just needs adjusting or is there another issue I could be looking at? Possibly with the new cylinder?
Old 03-11-2014, 12:50 PM
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Just re-adjust the rears.
Jack up the rear, adjust starwheel with small screwdriver (I think Cruiser54 has a nice FSM pic, but you can reach it through an opening an the bottom inside of the backing plate IIRC). Adjust untill just out of slight drag while rotating the wheel.
Either the cool one is too loose (likely), or the other one has too much drag, causing excessive temp.
Old 03-11-2014, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Roler
Just re-adjust the rears.
Jack up the rear, adjust starwheel with small screwdriver (I think Cruiser54 has a nice FSM pic, but you can reach it through an opening an the bottom inside of the backing plate IIRC). Adjust untill just out of slight drag while rotating the wheel.
Either the cool one is too loose (likely), or the other one has too much drag, causing excessive temp.
Thanks Roler
Old 03-11-2014, 03:27 PM
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Roler, are you talking about reaching it if i take that rubber grommet looking thing out? And If I'm under the jeep looking at the back of each wheel which direction to I rotate the star wheel to adjust out?

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Old 03-11-2014, 03:46 PM
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Yep, behind that grommet (I think its called a dust cover plug something) probe with your small screw driver, you will feel the teeth from the star wheel adjuster
.
Good question about what direction, I once knew...downwards is tighter, IIRC. But if not, you will find out and turn the other direction (you won't damage anything, and likely only need a few turns).
Old 03-11-2014, 04:27 PM
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Thank you sir!
Old 03-11-2014, 07:09 PM
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After driving some more I have a feeling the hotter drum is adjusted too tight as I can hear a slight rubbing sound while driving. I assume I'll have to take the drum off to loosen that one?
Old 03-11-2014, 07:15 PM
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No, can be done the same way and is actually easier with the wheel on because it will allow you to spin the wheel and listen/feel for drag.

However, is is good for maintenance, to take the drums of anyway and give everything a good once over, clean it, check the cylinders for leaks, wear of the brake shoes etc. Just to get a general impression of the condition of the rear brakes.
Old 03-11-2014, 07:27 PM
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Thanks again Roler, you've been a big help!
Old 03-11-2014, 07:34 PM
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No worries, mate.
I'll go have a sleep now after my nightshift. Good luck.
Old 03-11-2014, 10:12 PM
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Excellent advice from Roler but one thing: You cannot loosen the adjusting star wheel without a second skinny screwdriver or similar tool to push the latching lever out of the way. Good to take the drum off and see first hand how the adjusting mechanism works.
Old 03-12-2014, 12:19 AM
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Life in Cruisers shadow, the gift that keeps on giving! Anyway you can find that diagram in my signature. You want no drag, with the wheel lifted. (OK nearly no brake rubbing).

Here's the rub. If someone tightened the E-brake cable trying to get less petal free play she may be boggered up. Nothing should be hot there. Or maybe someone overtightened the adjuster.

Like mentioned, it may well be necessary to push with a second small implement on the auto adjuster plate to rotate the star wheel loser. You might pull the drum, from the other side, which may come off easily, to look first hand at how the auto adjuster plate works.
Old 03-12-2014, 12:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Pelican
Excellent advice from Roler but one thing: You cannot loosen the adjusting star wheel without a second skinny screwdriver or similar tool to push the latching lever out of the way. Good to take the drum off and see first hand how the adjusting mechanism works.
Originally Posted by DFlintstone
Life in Cruisers shadow, the gift that keeps on giving! Anyway you can find that diagram in my signature. You want no drag, with the wheel lifted. (OK nearly no brake rubbing).

Here's the rub. If someone tightened the E-brake cable trying to get less petal free play she may be boggered up. Nothing should be hot there. Or maybe someone overtightened the adjuster.

Like mentioned, it may well be necessary to push with a second small implement on the auto adjuster plate to rotate the star wheel loser. You might pull the drum, from the other side, which may come off easily, to look first hand at how the auto adjuster plate works.
Thank you gentlemen for the advice. I just had the brakes apart when replacing the cylinders so I do have an idea how it works. And I do think I over adjusted that one side. I'm going to try to adjust it Thursday with the tire on and if it doesn't work, I'll be taking the drums off, inspecting everything and starting the adjustment from scratch. I did this successfully the first time this past summer so this is a little frustrating to have to go back and do it again.
Old 03-12-2014, 12:57 AM
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Those guys know, sounds like you are in good hands. If it's new to you you might look at the threads on the E-brake cable adjuster. I believe the only reason it adjusts is for stretch in the cable. If someone moved it allot, that might be your problem. Unlikely that, but you might see it on the crud on the cable if someone did.

You might have a tough time getting the tight one off, of course.

"I did this successfully the first time this past summer so this is a little frustrating" Boy, I sure get that. Btw, The actual tool is called a "spoon" or brake auguster spoon".
Old 03-12-2014, 11:40 AM
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The star wheel seems to be spinning easily in either direction with just the one screw driver. I'm guessing that little latch thing isn't catching the star wheel therefore throw off the adjustment?


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