MassillonBuckeye

So we are replacing the rear drums. there are 9" kits and 10" kits. I have a 91 laredo 4.0 4x4. Drums appear to be 9". Having trouble fitting a new drum(9") and shoes(9") on the drivers side. We put the old drum on and it fits better, but still have to have the self adjuster adjusted all the way in and there's still no play. Does spin though. Passenger side is still intact for reference. What size should we be using? Last brake job on passenger side they installed 2 primary(smaller) shoes instead of primary/secondary because I'm guessing they ran into the same issue. Self adjuster is all the way in, and the drum still not fitting on right. How far out should the adjusters be on a proper install? The passenger side has no self adjuster at all. I guess the last mechanic just decided not to use em?? What is going on here? Do I have to use 2 primaries or sand the pads down for everything to fit right? Thanks for any help.. My neighbor is gonna hate me! He's the one who took this job on haha Please let me know if i need to clarify. Describing car repair is not my normal line of work

MassillonBuckeye

If the adjusters are all the way in and the brakes are otherwise installed correctly, would an e-brake be the likely culprit of drums not fitting on? Sorry for the urgency, but this my daily driver disabled in neighbors driveway.

90_cherokee

I did the rear brakes on my 90 recently,and ran into similar problems. The way I understood it,the 10" drums are finned on the outside and the 9" drums were plain (visually there's the difference)

I too had issues with my drivers side where the drum wouldn't go on smoothly,if at all,and the adjuster was all the way in. Turns out the rear brakes were at their outward most adjustment (worn out) and the piston in the wheel cylinder was rusted in that position,not allowing the brakes to to collapse enough to get the drum on. If all else fails...check your wheel cylinder.

TheJerm

^x2 on the wheel cylinder being pushed out, you have to compress it just like calipers to get new brakes on

MassillonBuckeye

I'm sorry I didn't specify but wheel cylinders were replaced as well. He ended up sanding the pads a bit and grinding the bar with slots and spring on one end that holds the shoes apart towards the top. Picking it up as we speak

MassillonBuckeye

Well I picked it up. E-brake not working at all and I'm hearing a bit of a "clunk" mostly from drivers side it seems when I let off the brakes. Not always.

Firehawk068

E-brake not working because he used a grinder on the equalizer bar that spreads apart your shoes when you pull the e-brake handle.......And yes, if you had the e-brake on while you were trying to install new shoes/drum, you would not be able to get them on.
The handle pulls a cable, which pulls a lever inside your drum, which pivots to lever one shoe against the inside of the drum, while at the same time pushes the bar(with the spring on one end) against the opposite shoe, pushing it against the inside of the drum.

Although your neighbor was trying to help you, I wouldn't let him touch your jeep ever again.

When everything is installed correctly(new shoes/new drum/new hardware)
You still should be able to get a few turns out to adjust the self-adjusting screws to proper shoe spread, and get the drum on.
Also, your brakes will not work properly without the self adjuster installed.
You mentioned one side did not have one at all............It holds the shoes apart at the bottom.
Without it installed, the shoes will close at the bottom when you apply the wheel cylinder at the top. They aren't working at all.

Get someone to take a picture of their properly installed drum harware to compare yours with, or have someone bring their XJ over and compare it to yours. and also start calling junkyards to get a replacement bar for the one your neighbor "modified" for you. It will never work with that one in there.