rear blocks?
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,217
Likes: 7
From: Schnecksville, PA
Year: 94 XJ
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Going to jump in here and answer Belto's original question.
Why not lift with blocks?
Besides the spring wrap everyone mentioned...
Rear swaybar proximity to the tire. With the rear sway bar still installed, pushing the axle further down away from the springs, brings the endlink of the swaybar extremely close to hitting the tire. IF your stock springs are weak, which yours (Belto) may not be as you had said the PO had them replaced, you may be able to get away with removing the rear swaybar.
BUT to anyone else with stock OEM springs I suggest leaving the sway where it is. It will cause uncontrollable/unsafe body roll.
IF you really want to use blocks, trim the ends of the swaybar (grinder/hacksaw). Removing 1/2" should give JUST ENOUGH clearance for streeting, but not for any off-roading. That is UNLESS you like replacing tires...both of them.
I am currently running 2" alum blocks and do not like them for this reason also 2" of block lift on weak springs only gives you approx 1-1 1/4" of lift.
Just looking at my OLD rear springs gets me sea-sick, any more waves and I will have to grab a surfboard.
Why not lift with blocks?
Besides the spring wrap everyone mentioned...
Rear swaybar proximity to the tire. With the rear sway bar still installed, pushing the axle further down away from the springs, brings the endlink of the swaybar extremely close to hitting the tire. IF your stock springs are weak, which yours (Belto) may not be as you had said the PO had them replaced, you may be able to get away with removing the rear swaybar.
BUT to anyone else with stock OEM springs I suggest leaving the sway where it is. It will cause uncontrollable/unsafe body roll.
IF you really want to use blocks, trim the ends of the swaybar (grinder/hacksaw). Removing 1/2" should give JUST ENOUGH clearance for streeting, but not for any off-roading. That is UNLESS you like replacing tires...both of them.
I am currently running 2" alum blocks and do not like them for this reason also 2" of block lift on weak springs only gives you approx 1-1 1/4" of lift.
Just looking at my OLD rear springs gets me sea-sick, any more waves and I will have to grab a surfboard.
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,883
Likes: 6
From: W-PA
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Going to jump in here and answer Belto's original question.
Why not lift with blocks?
Besides the spring wrap everyone mentioned...
Rear swaybar proximity to the tire. With the rear sway bar still installed, pushing the axle further down away from the springs, brings the endlink of the swaybar extremely close to hitting the tire. IF your stock springs are weak, which yours (Belto) may not be as you had said the PO had them replaced, you may be able to get away with removing the rear swaybar.
BUT to anyone else with stock OEM springs I suggest leaving the sway where it is. It will cause uncontrollable/unsafe body roll.
IF you really want to use blocks, trim the ends of the swaybar (grinder/hacksaw). Removing 1/2" should give JUST ENOUGH clearance for streeting, but not for any off-roading. That is UNLESS you like replacing tires...both of them.
I am currently running 2" alum blocks and do not like them for this reason also 2" of block lift on weak springs only gives you approx 1-1 1/4" of lift.
Just looking at my OLD rear springs gets me sea-sick, any more waves and I will have to grab a surfboard.
Why not lift with blocks?
Besides the spring wrap everyone mentioned...
Rear swaybar proximity to the tire. With the rear sway bar still installed, pushing the axle further down away from the springs, brings the endlink of the swaybar extremely close to hitting the tire. IF your stock springs are weak, which yours (Belto) may not be as you had said the PO had them replaced, you may be able to get away with removing the rear swaybar.
BUT to anyone else with stock OEM springs I suggest leaving the sway where it is. It will cause uncontrollable/unsafe body roll.
IF you really want to use blocks, trim the ends of the swaybar (grinder/hacksaw). Removing 1/2" should give JUST ENOUGH clearance for streeting, but not for any off-roading. That is UNLESS you like replacing tires...both of them.
I am currently running 2" alum blocks and do not like them for this reason also 2" of block lift on weak springs only gives you approx 1-1 1/4" of lift.
Just looking at my OLD rear springs gets me sea-sick, any more waves and I will have to grab a surfboard.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 262
Likes: 1
From: PSL FL
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Going to jump in here and answer Belto's original question.
Why not lift with blocks?
Besides the spring wrap everyone mentioned...
Rear swaybar proximity to the tire. With the rear sway bar still installed, pushing the axle further down away from the springs, brings the endlink of the swaybar extremely close to hitting the tire. IF your stock springs are weak, which yours (Belto) may not be as you had said the PO had them replaced, you may be able to get away with removing the rear swaybar.
BUT to anyone else with stock OEM springs I suggest leaving the sway where it is. It will cause uncontrollable/unsafe body roll.
IF you really want to use blocks, trim the ends of the swaybar (grinder/hacksaw). Removing 1/2" should give JUST ENOUGH clearance for streeting, but not for any off-roading. That is UNLESS you like replacing tires...both of them.
I am currently running 2" alum blocks and do not like them for this reason also 2" of block lift on weak springs only gives you approx 1-1 1/4" of lift.
Just looking at my OLD rear springs gets me sea-sick, any more waves and I will have to grab a surfboard.
Why not lift with blocks?
Besides the spring wrap everyone mentioned...
Rear swaybar proximity to the tire. With the rear sway bar still installed, pushing the axle further down away from the springs, brings the endlink of the swaybar extremely close to hitting the tire. IF your stock springs are weak, which yours (Belto) may not be as you had said the PO had them replaced, you may be able to get away with removing the rear swaybar.
BUT to anyone else with stock OEM springs I suggest leaving the sway where it is. It will cause uncontrollable/unsafe body roll.
IF you really want to use blocks, trim the ends of the swaybar (grinder/hacksaw). Removing 1/2" should give JUST ENOUGH clearance for streeting, but not for any off-roading. That is UNLESS you like replacing tires...both of them.
I am currently running 2" alum blocks and do not like them for this reason also 2" of block lift on weak springs only gives you approx 1-1 1/4" of lift.
Just looking at my OLD rear springs gets me sea-sick, any more waves and I will have to grab a surfboard.
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,883
Likes: 6
From: W-PA
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Thats why I had to quick order rims, it was so bad I couldnt drive it untill I got rims with 4"bs. Also it is taking forever for them to settle in, ive had to retighten my u-bolts several times. Seems like shackles would be a better way to go(imo), 4wd and quadratec both have them pretty cheap....my blocks work ok for now but ill replace them eventually. (I have an aal, coils,shocks and a 1" rear block for about 3" lift)
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,504
Likes: 0
From: Puerto Rico
just a reminder for some people that might not read the hole thread I finished up buying some shackles 3" wide and trimmed to make it fit...
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,504
Likes: 0
From: Puerto Rico
