Texas Classic XJ

So today was the first time my XJ overheated. Was on my way home and had just got off the highway and down the road I noticed a small spray of coolant pissing out from under the hood on the passenger side right where the radiator is. Pulled over and pop the hood and could hear a hissing and thought it was the top radiator hose. Kept going and the temp gauge was holding at 220 and a lot of coolant spraying out the side but I was about 2 miles from home so thought I could make it. Got 2 streets away from my house and from 220 it shot straight up past 260 and threw the check gauges light. I shut it off right away and coasted to a stop. waited for it to drop back below 210 and pored a bottle of coolant i had in the back in it. Got it home and cooled the engine off with a garden hose. Now any idea what was with the temp gauge? Why did it shoot from 220 to all the way to the right side with in a second? Also a bit later on went back out started it back up and the engine sounds fine/normal and got it back up to temp and now I'm sure the side of radiator is leaking and not the top radiator hose. Any one else have the passenger side of the radiator leak somewhere? This is the stock radiator.

Last year I replaced thermostat with a 195, new radiator hoses, new thermostat housing, and put new coolant in it. Now I'm sure this means a I need a new radiator so any suggestions/reviews on a 2 row all metal one? Looking for one that is a O.E fit so I don't have to cut/mod anything. Also would a all aluminum or brass/copper be better?

-Thanks in advance

Firestorm500

All aluminum core, stock specs. It will probably have the "plastic" side tanks on it. Most everything has for quite a number of years now.

"Cooling off" a hot engine with water is extremely risky. Thermal shock from the cold water can and will crack something. Just leave the hood open and let it cool naturally. Any damage you have already done certainly cannot be cured with a cold water dousing.

Since you have cooked the oil, change it and the filter.

Texas Classic XJ

Yikes didn't think about that. What should I check for cracks? My main thought at that time was to cool it back off quick as of fear the head could have cracked easily since I have the infamous 0331 head.

Found this on quadratech:http://www.quadratec.com/products/51210_6200_07.htm
Not sure what the factory specs. of the radiator are other than being a single core?

It's close to being due for an oil change so will do that and make sure I don't have coolant going into my oil after repairs are made.

Kingfisher

Right!

Kingfisher

What you did made it more likely to crack!

You might want to make sure it isn't cracked before you buy a radiator.

RTorrez1

Your first mistake was that you kept driving it when it was over heated. Second was hosing it down with cold water. By doing both of those you could have caused a lot more damage to it then just a radiator. Time to start checking EVERYTHING out before you start buying parts.

Kalali

The instant jump from 220 to 260 is designed into the gauge to make sure you pay attention. On a 2000, many cylinder heads have cracked even without an overheating episode. Mine for example. But an overheat usually seals the deal....
If it were me, I'd clean everything up, replace the radiator, and keep a close eye on your coolant reservoir bottle. If you see an unexplained drop in the coolant level, then you know your head is cracked for sure. But remember, if your head is indeed cracked now, every mile you drive is adding a little bit of coolant to the oil and reducing the life of the bearings. A trade off all around.

djb383

Factory spec is 31" X 11" X 1.25" thick core. All rads r single core.....most late model factory rads r single row core design. Some aftermarket rads have a multiple row/single core design. If the total core thickness of a multi-row rad is the same thickness as a single row core rad, there's virtually no gain in heat displacement efficiency with the multi-row design.

Most auto parts stores sell a OE factory style rad with a lifetime warranty for about 1/2 the price of the rad in the above link.

MoparPartWorld

Not sure what trim level your Jeep is but here is a link to a 2000 4.0 Cherokee

http://moparpartworld.com/parts/2000...onent=Radiator

Firestorm500

I didn't look at the link but always buy mine locally. Radiators are not rare.

Texas Classic XJ

Well that explains the gauge. Thought it was not reading correctly. So does that mean if you get above 220, say I hit 225 that it goes straight past 260 to get the basic drivers attention? If so then I don't think i hit 260. When the radiator first started leaking the needle was just below the 220 mark. Probably 215-17? When I kept going on the leak got really bad is when it slowly rose to right on the 220 mark. At this point I had turned off the back road and was moving slow in the neighborhood and that's when it shot off the 220 mark all the way over. When it did this I immediately shut the engine off. So would it be a safe guess that it never got up to 260?

Well I did all the new parts I mentioned because I was aware of the 0331 head problems. I knew mine wasn't cracked as oil wasn't ever abnormal, coolant level held steadily, and no white smoke from exhaust. Oil level would stay the same. But I haven't driven it since the radiator issue and will not until I replace the radiator and make sure my head didn't crack.

Texas Classic XJ

Well I know now not to ever do that again. And as far as the driving part I thought it would hold up for like the mile and half I had left to get home. But I guess I was wrong on that as well.....
So aside from the radiator, the head, and the oil, what else should I check to make sure it didn't crack or become more damaged from my mistake with hosing it down?

djb383

After u get everything all sorted out, new parts etc., and running cool again, u may want to send in a used oil sample to be tested, just to verify no coolant in the oil.

Texas Classic XJ

Update I checked the oil the other day now that I've had a bit of time. It smells and looks okay. As for a radiator I can't find one at my local parts store that matches the stock core size. All of them are a bit smaller but I'm wondering if that will make any difference. Such as:http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...266534_0_13752
Also I'm not sure where online would be a good place to buy from but I found one online that seems a better buy. Lifetime warranty like the other link excpet the core is tad bigger. http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...ILLA2736A.html

Anyone ever have to buy one online, if so what site did you turn to?

djb383

We got ours at AutoZone, the Spectra Premium A1193 or CU1193....perfect fit. Lifetime warranty, picked it up at the store.