Hey!

So a while ago my jeep ('98 xj sport) started leaking antifreeze, took it to a mechanic, he said it was leaking from the water pump. Made sense cuz there was coolant all over it so we replaced it. That went fine, but then it started leaking again, this time from the bottom of the radiator (picture 1). Ive been meaning to replace the radiator since I found that but haven't had the time, so Ive had to continue refilling it with coolant. Recently when refilling the system I found the residue on the water pump again (picture 2). What do you think it could be? Could I have just sealed the gasket under the pump really badly? It started leaking there again after a few weeks so I feel like that could be it... Any ideas?

 

When you replaced the wp, did you make sure you cleaned ALL the old gasket of the mating surfaces?
And what did you use: gasket/RTV/Both?
And last thing: did you torque it back to spec?

All the above can relate to leaking around the WP after it has been replaced.
Also check if its not leaking from somewhere else, ending up there around the wp, for completeness.

 

^^This^^
Also make sure that it isn't leaking from the t-stat housing.

 

Good eye. That's the top of the water pump in that picture. It looks like the leak is coming from the thermostat housing, unless the coolant is defying gravity and flowing upward.

As for the radiator, just replace it. It's not a huge job. I've had two of those plastic-tank radiators leak from where the plastic meets metal.

 

I cleaned all the mating surfaces but I probably could've done it better... I used both a gasket and RTV, and no I didn't torque it back to spec. I'll probably just go redo the water pump next week and get the radiator and thermostat (probs needs a new one either way) while I'm at it. What would you recommend for cleaning the mating surfaces? I wanna make sure I get it right, especially if I'm gonna do it for the thermostat as well.

 

"I wanna make sure I get it right, especially if I'm gonna do it for the thermostat as well".

A razor blade scraper and alcohol.

 

yep, (gasket) scraper and alcohol. If you use a gasket, a thin smear of RTV will do. Don't overdo it, or it will end up everywhere.

 

.....thin layer (of rtv) on BOTH sides the gasket.

 

Make sure the block is good and dry before you use RTV. That is tough spot to apply RTV because coolant wants to keep leaking out of the block. On T stat housing I find it easier to just use a regular gasket with no RTV.

 

While it's out it's time for new radiator hoses!

Here is a good video on how to replace it.

 

Ok so Im in the middle of replacing the radiator, but I can't get anywhere with the lower transmission line, the couplers completely stuck. I can turn it clockwise and counterclockwise with a lot of force but other than that it doesn't move at all. I've used DW40 and various rust removers etc. but it still wont budge. Any suggestions?

 

Are you using a quick-disconnect tool? The lower liner is a quick-disconnect not a threaded connection. You'll get nowhere trying to unscrew it.


Quick-disconnect tools: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/a...c502/9010299-p

 

try prying the coupler up somewhat whilst you spin it counterclockwise.

 

I was using the tool and twisting and turning and pushing and pulling and everything but to no avail, I found a solution though... I had cut the end of the tube off with a hacksaw and left a little of an inch of tubing there. I cut about 2.5 inches of transmission tubing and hose clamped the tube onto the cut end of the pipe and the new end from the new radiator. I'll upload pics in case anyone wants to see it or cant get their spring lock thingy off from the lower transmission line of the radiator. I thought it was way easier than working at the coupler and took about 5 minutes from the auto parts store to having it done.

 

LOL, you mean THAT coupler! I thought the coupler of the transline on the radiator.

That one in the pic, my friend, is a quick disconnect and all the twisting and turning and pulling in the world would not make it disconnect, because the way it is designed. You have small plastic tools for that, available in any part store.

Although this construction might hold, I would take out the whole section of the non-metal line and replace with rubber trans line like you did for that short section. Known working fix for trans line leaking from the alloy caps and the likes.