Ianf406

Hey there my wifes clutch is no longer working in her 1992 XJ. The pedal has nothing behind it. It goes all the way to the floor at which point you can get it in 1-5. In order to get it into reverse you have to pump it a few times. The clutch itself was replaced about 30,000 miles ago (according to the guy I bought it from) and after reading tons of articles, I went and bought a new master cylinder first as this one has the internal slave (reading told me everything pre 95 has internal slave) and I figured Ide start cheapest/easiest first.
So my questions...

1. Is there anyway to bleed this system with the internal slave? While there does not appear to be any leaks (fluid does not go down) The fluid is very very dark and I would like to bleed it if possible before doing the master/after doing the master. If you can bleed it, where on earth is it?

2. How do you get the line disconnected from the master cyclinder?

3. I have found in the past many of you have tricks/tips that work very well... any ideas for this?

Thanks! It might be worth mentioning that I can push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor with my finger- no pressure at all...

TwoXJS

I'm not sure if it'd apply to your problem, but when we did our clutch in the '93, we had a problem with a nick or cut in the metal line going into the transmission that would randomly cause the system to lose pressure. We could pump it back up and it'd work for a while, but then lose pressure again.

Again, don't know if it'd apply to yours, but it's something we didn't expect to find wrong. Could be something to check out?

Ianf406

Certainly could be. I guess it could still be loosing fluid and just filling with air- Ill have to take a few cans of engine cleaner down there and see if I cant find any leaks.

TwoXJS

Our's was leaking into the bellhousing, so if you can stick a finger in there, see if it's wet anywhere.

Ianf406

Will do! Thanks. Do you know if there is a way to bleed it? I know on one of my old ones it had the external slave and you just did it on there- pump a few times and hold-> open valve till pedal about 3/4 of the way down and repeat

freegdr

1993 shows internal slave so there should be a short metal tube under there with a bleed fitting on the end. Check for fluid on clutch master rod right above fuse box . Its very common issue of bad clutch master . Brake fluid will destroy the fuse box if not corrected .....

Ianf406

Awesome thank you for the picture! I heard about the fuse box issues and will make sure it is all clean when I replace the master. Thanks! I heard these are a giant pain to bleed- So just to make sure I have the steps right

1- take fish tank hose or equivalent and put over bleeder end going into jar with a few inches of brake fluid

2- pump the clutch a few times

3- slowly go down about 3/4 of the way with valve open (an old post said not to go down completely as it looses pressure)

4- Close bleeder valve and repeat making sure the master never empties

(basically the same as the brakes)

OR

Gravity bleed it never allowing master to empty.

Once again thanks for the picture!

freegdr

Both work I prefer the 3/4 method .

Ianf406

Thanks again man. Ill do it when she gets home from work.

freegdr

Good luck...

Ianf406

So no leaks! I replaced the master cylinder anyways as it was really simple and I had it on hand. The whole ordeal only took about an hour. (thanks for the picture) Im pretty sure the problem was it just needed a good bleeding. Ever since we got it the clutch has only engaged about 3/4 of the way down. Now it engages about 1/8th of the way down. Nice and stiff like every other manual I have ever driven. I tried the pump method but my wife was failing miserably so I just opened it up and let it gravity bleed about 1.5 pints of dot 3. Thanks for the help!