Questions Before I Buy an XJ
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Questions Before I Buy an XJ
Howdy,
I'm looking to buy an XJ as an all-around rig from daily driving to out in the desert. I've never owned a Jeep but several of my buddies have them and their simplicity and ruggedness had always impressed me. I plan to do all my own work.
I think I want a pretty stock mid to late 90's 4x4 5-speed mostly for the OBDII and R134a AC.
Are there any years I should stay away from or any big issues to look out for?
Thanks,
Jack
I'm looking to buy an XJ as an all-around rig from daily driving to out in the desert. I've never owned a Jeep but several of my buddies have them and their simplicity and ruggedness had always impressed me. I plan to do all my own work.
I think I want a pretty stock mid to late 90's 4x4 5-speed mostly for the OBDII and R134a AC.
Are there any years I should stay away from or any big issues to look out for?
Thanks,
Jack
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Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
Look for a 98 or 99, the 96 and 97 were kind of strange with some one year only stuff that can be hard to find and to sort out. The 2000 and 01 have low pinion front axles and coil on plug (not really a big deal, but the cylinder heads are a weak link).
Last edited by Bustedback; 05-09-2014 at 09:05 PM.
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I have a 96 with 150k on it. Its not a daily driver but is great on road as well as off. I mostly rock crawl in it, but do drive it around town even in the Phoenix heat. They ALL run hot so any year is going to have that problem.
As for the 96, been told its kind of a bastard year as the 87's up to 95's dont have alot of the stuff the 96 has and then the 97's up to 2001 (I think this is the last year they were produced) dont have what the 96's have either, except for body and interior changes and then low pinion axles as well (stay away from those). The 96 and up have the OBDII. Also stay away from rear axles that are D35's. If you can find one that has a D44 then great but they are hard to come by, 8.25's are a good bet with the high pinion D30 front. Obviously finding one with lockers is great as well as gears, lift and bigger tires, but all this has more to do with budget or what you want to spend.
Good luck and maybe I will see you out on the trail!
As for the 96, been told its kind of a bastard year as the 87's up to 95's dont have alot of the stuff the 96 has and then the 97's up to 2001 (I think this is the last year they were produced) dont have what the 96's have either, except for body and interior changes and then low pinion axles as well (stay away from those). The 96 and up have the OBDII. Also stay away from rear axles that are D35's. If you can find one that has a D44 then great but they are hard to come by, 8.25's are a good bet with the high pinion D30 front. Obviously finding one with lockers is great as well as gears, lift and bigger tires, but all this has more to do with budget or what you want to spend.
Good luck and maybe I will see you out on the trail!
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#8
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Model: Cherokee
If it has abs it has the dana 35 in the rear,The none abs ones have a chrysler 8.25 which is the better stock axle.High mileage is nothing for the 4.0 most can live well in to 300k if taken care of.Things to look out for is rust in the floor pans and rockers and crappy repairs some previous owners done to it.
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Again another 98/99 nothing newer though too many issues with them. Also make sure it has the Chry. 8.25 rear differential those years mostly came with 29 spline axles a plus in it, all have the D30 front.
I would avoid the 4 cyd. the 4.0 6I is a great engine and as stated renowned to run for a lot of miles mine is a low mileage one with 240,000 and running strong.
I know you said that you wanted a manual trans. but I think your really limiting yourself on XJ's with that only. A high majority came with the AW4 auto an excellent trans I might add and if you check the board here I guess 95+% of the XJ's have the AW4's in them. Again mine is the original along with the NP231 transfer case.
I guess what I'm saying you will be passing up a lot of good XJ's buy not looking at the auto trans. Just something to consider.
Good luck hope you find a nice one soon.
I would avoid the 4 cyd. the 4.0 6I is a great engine and as stated renowned to run for a lot of miles mine is a low mileage one with 240,000 and running strong.
I know you said that you wanted a manual trans. but I think your really limiting yourself on XJ's with that only. A high majority came with the AW4 auto an excellent trans I might add and if you check the board here I guess 95+% of the XJ's have the AW4's in them. Again mine is the original along with the NP231 transfer case.
I guess what I'm saying you will be passing up a lot of good XJ's buy not looking at the auto trans. Just something to consider.
Good luck hope you find a nice one soon.
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Thanks for all the replies, guys!
I never really considered an auto because I've never had one before but I guess I'll at least go look at one considering it sounds like they're pretty tough.
All of the rigs my friends have are over 200k miles and still going strong so I'm more concerned with overall condition than how many miles are on it.
I never really considered an auto because I've never had one before but I guess I'll at least go look at one considering it sounds like they're pretty tough.
All of the rigs my friends have are over 200k miles and still going strong so I'm more concerned with overall condition than how many miles are on it.
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Straight Six
Id go for a 98 or 99, but you cant really go wrong with any 91 or newer IMO. In my entire life Ive only seen 3 Cherokees with a Manual transmission so I wish you luck there. Get the 4.0 high output, very reliable and strong. Just be prepared to do lots of work if you lift it, In the past month Ive put about $800 in parts and tools into my jeeps front end, Lifting the Jeep causes problems that not everyone will occur, Id stay far away from Rough Country.
I doubt you have to worry much about rust in Arizona, but if you do, check the floorboards very well as the carpets are sponges.
I doubt you have to worry much about rust in Arizona, but if you do, check the floorboards very well as the carpets are sponges.
#12
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Id go for a 98 or 99, but you cant really go wrong with any 91 or newer IMO. In my entire life Ive only seen 3 Cherokees with a Manual transmission so I wish you luck there. Get the 4.0 high output, very reliable and strong. Just be prepared to do lots of work if you lift it, In the past month Ive put about $800 in parts and tools into my jeeps front end, Lifting the Jeep causes problems that not everyone will occur, Id stay far away from Rough Country.
I doubt you have to worry much about rust in Arizona, but if you do, check the floorboards very well as the carpets are sponges.
I doubt you have to worry much about rust in Arizona, but if you do, check the floorboards very well as the carpets are sponges.
Condition is going to be your biggest hurdle. If you plan on trailing it or crawling it, a few minor dents and scratches shouldnt keep you away from buying it. But if its going to be your best driver then look for a later model.
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 L
Stay away from the 00-01s. IMO 1999 is the most well-rounded year because it is the last year before the crack-prone head, it is the first year that has the best flowing style intake, it has the older, more simple emissions, and it also has 29 spline axle shafts in the 8.25 axle in the back.
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