Question about replacing front brake lines/hoses
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 2,863
Likes: 201
From: syracuse ny
Year: 1997 230,000 miles
Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
Engine: 4.0, new lifters valve job with new springs and exhaust valves, preload set with shims
Well I just did a few cupra nickle lines on the xj. AZ does have them pre made to standard lengths, 50, 60, 10 etc in the 3/16ths. Pricey though but worth saving the time to flare etc.
Relieved that I wont be worrying about rust and corruption with those here in NYS its a big issue. Steel last about 2 years here.
Relieved that I wont be worrying about rust and corruption with those here in NYS its a big issue. Steel last about 2 years here.
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 7,965
Likes: 964
From: Lost in the wilds of Virginia
Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 2,863
Likes: 201
From: syracuse ny
Year: 1997 230,000 miles
Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
Engine: 4.0, new lifters valve job with new springs and exhaust valves, preload set with shims
finished mine today.. what a job ugh. But a good feeling now to have them all in right.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 940
Likes: 72
From: Abysmo, NJ
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Another vote for NiCopp tubing. The stuff is just so easy to work with. Bends so easily you don't even need a tubing bender, and it's hard to make a bad flare with it. Between that and no rust it's a no-brainer that's well worth the additional cost. I'll never go back to installing steel replacement lines.
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 7,519
Likes: 1,629
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Another vote for NiCopp tubing. The stuff is just so easy to work with. Bends so easily you don't even need a tubing bender, and it's hard to make a bad flare with it. Between that and no rust it's a no-brainer that's well worth the additional cost. I'll never go back to installing steel replacement lines.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/SER161A
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 7,965
Likes: 964
From: Lost in the wilds of Virginia
Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 7,519
Likes: 1,629
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
I did not forget the flare nut when I cut down premade lines but put the necessary bends in a line with one of the flare nuts down at the other end. LOL. Good thing the cupro-nickel line is so easy to work with. LOL.
Junior Member
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 55
Likes: 7
From: Seattle
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
From the factory, the right front hardline is one solid line from the brake hose to the master cylinder. The best place to splice it is just behind the valve cover. Thats how the aftermarket does it. Its in 2 pieces. Should you go with the pre-bent kits off ebay, the line from the brake hose into the engine bay is missing a couple bends entirely. They simply arent there. The factory line bends in towards the engine at the inner fender, and then bends back towards the firewall, passing under the charcoal canister. The aftermatket kits do not. Instead, the line is bent in such a way that it would enter the passenger compartment.
Perhaps i got a bad kit as i have not heard of any complaints about that line anywhere else. But its something to watch out for. I think most just bend thier own lines anyway.
Perhaps i got a bad kit as i have not heard of any complaints about that line anywhere else. But its something to watch out for. I think most just bend thier own lines anyway.
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 64
Likes: 3
From: Florida
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Nothing fancy about bending and flaring your own lines. I picked up a 25’ roll of brake line at one of the auto stores, thinking it would work out cheaper after a couple jobs, plus give me a couple chances to mess up at no cost. I used about a foot off the roll to practice my flaring technique before starting on my car’s tubes.
You’ll hear two stories on which fittings to use - some guys will insist on a proper flare nut to contain the pressure, while others will say they’re fine with the cheaper compression fitting. I’ve done it both ways but since learning how easy it is to do my own flaring, flare nuts are the only way I’ll do it from now on.
Brett
You’ll hear two stories on which fittings to use - some guys will insist on a proper flare nut to contain the pressure, while others will say they’re fine with the cheaper compression fitting. I’ve done it both ways but since learning how easy it is to do my own flaring, flare nuts are the only way I’ll do it from now on.
Brett
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
I finished replacing the lines on my 99, went with the stainless set from Inline Tube. The front right line was fine. One of the master cylinder lines was not bent quite right. Ironically it is one of the easiest lines to bend, and was trivial to fix with just my hands, no tools. Stainless is not easy to work with, need to torque the fittings down harder, I had a couple leaking initially and had to tighten them, but in the end it all worked out. Still need to drive it, but so far pumping the brake pedal 20 times produces no leaks.
i have the same Brake Line Set from Inline Tube, thanks for all that hints you have written! I have to change the front right line
what is all needed to take out to get this done, where do you start...?? thank you! Fill
Last edited by Philipp Hartmann; Apr 24, 2020 at 06:37 PM.
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