Definitely a bit of a rookie question, but I've got brake fluid pouring out of one of my front brake lines. Assuming I can't replace just that section of the line and the entire line has to be done? Thanks in advance.

 

You should replace the whole section. Find the ends (where the fittings are) and take it to the parts store and find a matching length line and bend it as close to the original as you can.

It is possible to replace a section of the line if you can find a smooth line on both sides that's in good shape. If you can, then you can cut it (cleanly) and then use compression fittings to patch in a new section of hose.

I think that the whole new line option is going to be easier than trying to patch it.

Edit - yeah, new line for sure.. there's no regular line before the fitting at the bottom of your pic.

 

If that part is rusted out, the rest is not far behind.

 

Looks like front right? Anyway, if you don't want to bend/cut/flare your own lines, you can buy pre-bent ones, there are a couple of vendors on eBay selling line kits. Look at the rest of your hard lines, others probably look just as rusty, except perhaps the two short ones between the master cylinder and the proportioning valve. If you're doing this job for the first time, there are several new skills to learn - cut, flare (requires double flare tool), bend (better with a tubing bender but can be done by hand though will not look as good), and tighten just right but not overtighten. And of course you'll need to bleed afterwards. Personally I'd rather learn one new skill at a time, but that's just me and I am lazy.

 

From the factory, the right front hardline is one solid line from the brake hose to the master cylinder. The best place to splice it is just behind the valve cover. Thats how the aftermarket does it. Its in 2 pieces. Should you go with the pre-bent kits off ebay, the line from the brake hose into the engine bay is missing a couple bends entirely. They simply arent there. The factory line bends in towards the engine at the inner fender, and then bends back towards the firewall, passing under the charcoal canister. The aftermatket kits do not. Instead, the line is bent in such a way that it would enter the passenger compartment.

Perhaps i got a bad kit as i have not heard of any complaints about that line anywhere else. But its something to watch out for. I think most just bend thier own lines anyway.

 

Rolling your own isn't difficult. It's learning to flare that trips up most people. But use the cupro-nickel line if you do it yourself. Here's why:

1. It is more rust resistant than stainless steel.
2. It is much easier to work with than regular steel. Easier to bend, easier to flare.

For bending, do yourself a favor and get a cheap bending tool. For flaring, if you can find a place to rent one of these, you'll be many miles ahead. It's stupidly easy to learn to get excellent flares. I bought one a few years ago because I have never been able to get proper flares with the usual cheap flaring tools, and I have spent hours trying.

 

Plagurized from a cupro-nickel web site"
You should NEVER try to repair a brake line, if you get a break or pinhole the whole line should be replaced, it’s just the only way to be safe. Replacing entire lines can be a real challenge and forming and routing the new lines is enough to take up the whole day. If you decide to go with steel lines good luck, take your time and you can do it. If you want to make the job easier buy some cunifer copper nickel tube, you won’t regret it."
Amen to that. Seems every brake line I painstakingly ever changed rusts out within 2 years here in Syracuse NY

 

Spray steel lines with engine enamel, and then clear. Spray the unions with Fluid Film once theyre in. Or use the NiCopp.

Ive sprayed the transmission lines with engine enamel and its been holding up pretty well. So far.

 

LOL I just did that before you said it. Front line on my xj toast where it goes through the fender. Just put it in for my son like 2 years ago. All I had to do was touch it and it broke. Sprayed the new and old with rustoleum.
NAPA had the copper ones only in 2 foot lengths. So I went with steel, again, However the front to rear is shady too so will do that over again with copper.

 

Let's be careful here - it's not copper, like refrigeration or water line. It's cupro-nickel, an alloy, and it's made for this purpose.

Using plain copper tubing is asking for a wreck.

 

Silly me. Cupro-nickel, of course.

 

I mentioned it because someone on another forum was insisting that refrigeration line was just fine for brakes.

 

oh geez!

 

And for the rubber bits, use washer fluid hose. Right?

 

Nah, ya need to upgrade to transmission hose and good quality hose clamps!