Question about rear shims
#1
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: l6 HO
Question about rear shims
I am adding 2 more inches to my 3 inch lift. I'm doing coils spacers in front and shackles in the rear and want to shim the rear so what degree angle would be the best, 2.5, 4 or 6 degree? Thanks...Tj
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#8
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Year: 1994
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Are you planning to change out the control arms, track bar, etc when you add 2 more inches to a 3 inch lift?
Not trying to rain on your parade but your most likely going to run into front end problems with 5" of lift and no CA's or steering upgrades. Its a recipe for a harsh ride and death wobble.
Trust me, I've been there and had aftermarket LCA's and an adjustable track bar with 5.25 inches of lift and it drove like crap. Unless its a dedicated trail rig, that much lift I would recommend drop brackets or a long arm kit.
Oh, and plus your axle will be sucked back and will look funny.
To answer your original question regarding the rear end, you may be able to get away with shimming. Depends on the Jeep and in my opinion what Rear end / T-case it has.
My 91 had around 6 inches in the rear and I got away with a T-case drop and shims. It had an AX-15, 231, and Dana 35.
My 94 has 3"s in the rear and wouldnt even drive until I dropped the T-case. It has the AW-2, 242, and 8.25.
Not trying to rain on your parade but your most likely going to run into front end problems with 5" of lift and no CA's or steering upgrades. Its a recipe for a harsh ride and death wobble.
Trust me, I've been there and had aftermarket LCA's and an adjustable track bar with 5.25 inches of lift and it drove like crap. Unless its a dedicated trail rig, that much lift I would recommend drop brackets or a long arm kit.
Oh, and plus your axle will be sucked back and will look funny.
To answer your original question regarding the rear end, you may be able to get away with shimming. Depends on the Jeep and in my opinion what Rear end / T-case it has.
My 91 had around 6 inches in the rear and I got away with a T-case drop and shims. It had an AX-15, 231, and Dana 35.
My 94 has 3"s in the rear and wouldnt even drive until I dropped the T-case. It has the AW-2, 242, and 8.25.
Last edited by 91 Laredo; 04-03-2009 at 04:51 PM.
#9
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: l6 HO
Are you planning to change out the control arms, track bar, etc when you add 2 more inches to a 3 inch lift?
Not trying to rain on your parade but your most likely going to run into front end problems with 5" of lift and no CA's or steering upgrades. Its a recipe for a harsh ride and death wobble.
Trust me, I've been there and had aftermarket LCA's and an adjustable track bar with 5.25 inches of lift and it drove like crap. Unless its a dedicated trail rig, that much lift I would recommend drop brackets or a long arm kit.
Oh, and plus your axle will be sucked back and will look funny.
To answer your original question regarding the rear end, you may be able to get away with shimming. Depends on the Jeep and in my opinion what Rear end / T-case it has.
My 91 had around 6 inches in the rear and I got away with a T-case drop and shims. It had an AX-15, 231, and Dana 35.
My 94 has 3"s in the rear and wouldn't even drive until I dropped the T-case. It has the AW-2, 242, and 8.25.
Not trying to rain on your parade but your most likely going to run into front end problems with 5" of lift and no CA's or steering upgrades. Its a recipe for a harsh ride and death wobble.
Trust me, I've been there and had aftermarket LCA's and an adjustable track bar with 5.25 inches of lift and it drove like crap. Unless its a dedicated trail rig, that much lift I would recommend drop brackets or a long arm kit.
Oh, and plus your axle will be sucked back and will look funny.
To answer your original question regarding the rear end, you may be able to get away with shimming. Depends on the Jeep and in my opinion what Rear end / T-case it has.
My 91 had around 6 inches in the rear and I got away with a T-case drop and shims. It had an AX-15, 231, and Dana 35.
My 94 has 3"s in the rear and wouldn't even drive until I dropped the T-case. It has the AW-2, 242, and 8.25.
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Twins....
#12
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only use the 1 inch drop on the t-case.
you can swap out the slip yoke with one from a yj. they have more clearance against binding and is a direct fit.
you will want at least adjustable lower control arms, and adjustable track bar.
oh, and go with 4* steel shims.
you can swap out the slip yoke with one from a yj. they have more clearance against binding and is a direct fit.
you will want at least adjustable lower control arms, and adjustable track bar.
oh, and go with 4* steel shims.
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you can make you existing slip yok a hight angle one
if you have some patience
all you need is a drill or die grinder
grind out about 1/4" were the ears of the ujoint hit
I did this on my DS it worked fine but the shaft starts getting short
at the the lift hight you a doing
if you have some patience
all you need is a drill or die grinder
grind out about 1/4" were the ears of the ujoint hit
I did this on my DS it worked fine but the shaft starts getting short
at the the lift hight you a doing
#15
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: l6 HO
you can make you existing slip yok a hight angle one
if you have some patience
all you need is a drill or die grinder
grind out about 1/4" were the ears of the ujoint hit
I did this on my DS it worked fine but the shaft starts getting short
at the the lift height you a doing
if you have some patience
all you need is a drill or die grinder
grind out about 1/4" were the ears of the ujoint hit
I did this on my DS it worked fine but the shaft starts getting short
at the the lift height you a doing
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