mlepesant

What symptoms did you have? Just not going in OD or was it also sluggish in 1-2, 2-3, like it is going too high in rpms before it shifts? Mine is behaving when it is warm. I just had the NSS replaced and it is still not working. I didn't look at the brake switch but was holding the brake pedal up while driving; still had the same issue and the same codes came back. Trans shop is still trying to figure out what the problem is. I would like to swap a TCU, or change the torque converter. At this point I don't know and they don't either.

BumsModified98xj

Mine would act funny while driving like it would feal like it would slip sometimes I was in your shoes to my frustration was very high with that problem I would jump on the E-way and I would have no O.D sometimes it would just shift in & out of O.D the whole way to work and if it would just so happen to shift in O.D I would hit a bump and it would shift out of O.D I was so close to just dropping that cursed Aw4 and swapping the AX-15! But luckily I was told to look at the brake pedal switch and I did and it was all loose it didn't fit tight in its spot, so what I did was I zipped tied it to the bracket and it solved my problem the transmission shifts beautiful now and no more O.D problems

mlepesant

Thank you for the info. As soon as I get it back I will check this out. It may be well worth it! Congrats for fixing yours!

BumsModified98xj

Good luck with yours

GoyoIII

Mine was rebuilded less than 2 weeks ago. First time something was done on it after 245K. Shifts perfect but got CEL on after a 100 miles. A day later was off and today on again. Check the code and is P0740. Fluid level is good and according to the mechanic, all the wires and connectors are good. Any suggestions?

PS., 2000 stock with 245K

mlepesant

Jeeezz. I got mine back from the trans shop a week ago (4th time in about 4 weeks) for the same code and refusing to go in 4th gear. So far so good but I am not holding my breath since ... They didn't do anything to it this time but supposedly just drove it. The code is not back and they couldn't reproduce the behavior...I brought it back after they changed the valve body, then they changed it again (?), then they changed the NSS. The code came back again. They kept it for a week and now it is off and works fine. Am sure it will come back soon. I'll look at the trans speed sensors and the vehicle speed sensor, as well as the brake switch if it does. I really don't know myself. Now it seems like only when in cruise control it is hesitating. I don't think it is the trans slipping. So maybe vacuum leak or one of the sensors I mentioned.
What is yours doing besides getting the code 740?

mlepesant

Do you have any update on the P0740? I got the code again after 3 weeks of good shifting..

cpefy3

I may be very wrong on this, but I have a theory on the cause of getting these codes, at least on my application. I have a 98 Cherokee that had 3.55 gears (until just recently when i switched to 4.56) and I was running 31" tires with steel bumpers and a roof rack which held my full size spare. I think running this application for a while, without the aid of an automatic transmission cooler, caused the transmission fluid to degrade at a quick rate, due to the excessive stress placed on the transmission. Once the transmission fluid got above the predetermined allowable temperature the solenoids began to fail to lock up and over time this might have caused them to act unpredictably.
In the case of the mlepesant's transmission shop not being able to find mechanical fault leads me to believe that it could be due to the transmission fluid getting too hot which causes the solenoids to fail. I think that the CEL might stay off after a transmission flush due to the new trans fluid being able to disperse heat and over a short period of time it loses its ability to do this effectively; and then the your CEL will reappear.

I am planning on hopefully fixing mine, when funds become available, by:
1.) Changing the transmission fluid
2.) Changing the transmission Filter
3.) Changing the solenoids (with reputable good quality products, http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/97420K.html)
4.) Installing a Transmission cooler ( )

I guess to sum up my long drawn out response, I think it is imperative to keep your transmission fluid cool and this will keep the solenoids functioning properly (hopefully). I think Chrysler might have thought the same thing, due to their incorporation of a transmission cooler in the liberty (which i think is a similar sized vehicle.) Any input from others is appreciated, just a theory of mine.


cpefy3

BumsModified98xj

Check your brake light switch its located underneath your dash on the brake peddle bracket, make shure its firmly in position mine fit real sloppy my O.D cure was just a zip tie! The brake switch fit so sloppy and loose that when I would get on the E-way I would hit a bump and it would shoot out of O.D!

Fleags

I know this is an old thread, but my 99 cherokee is throwing these same 2 codes. When I followed these directions with my ohmmeter I read 16.6 ohm between solenoid 3 and battery negative, solenoids 1 & 2 read at 14.4 ohm. This isn't too far out of the acceptable range. Do you think this could be my issue?

Fleags

I missed one key detail during my testing. TEST IT WHILE ITS HOT!
My resistance went from 16.6 ohm to 546.6 ohm after I ran it a few miles. I'm gonna go ahead and order a new solenoid 3

larjerr

Good Luck! I think you found it. It's a whole lot easier than this darn rear main I'm working on this weekend.