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Problems trying to get my jeep to start. Help

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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 05:36 PM
  #31  
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It fluctuates between 1.7 to 1.9, sometimes droping when i wiggle the harness.

Ill try that next
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 05:44 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Kris503
It fluctuates between 1.7 to 1.9, sometimes droping when i wiggle the harness.

Ill try that next
The instructions are pretty plain to me, but here's a photo.
Attached Thumbnails Problems trying to get my jeep to start. Help-sensor-ground-wires.jpg  
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 10:05 PM
  #33  
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Ok so I found only 1 splice in my system, not 2...

all 5 Brown with white stipe wires were spliced into 1 Brown and white wire.

In your instructions it says I am supposed to find two splices? making a total of 6

I didnt find any other Brown and white wires

The looks of your picture help alot but am i supposed to take the 1 wire that the other 5 splice into and soldier them all together

Last edited by Kris503; Oct 25, 2012 at 10:07 PM. Reason: Miss wrote
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 10:10 PM
  #34  
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The number of splices varies from year to year. My instructions were written primarily for 87 and 88 models with the C101 connector. Bottom line is you want them all soldered together and have less than 1 ohm resistance when wiggling the harness. You wanna make sure the grounds for CTS, TPS, IAT, and MAP are all good.
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 10:26 PM
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Ok thank you Im callin it quits for tonight and finishing it tomorrow
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Old Nov 10, 2012 | 11:44 PM
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Can someone please post a photo of the engine block to fireball "braid" cable? I have no idea where it is...
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 05:55 AM
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I don't have a pic.

Furthest back head bolt on the driver's side is a stud. The cable attaches there and runs directly up and behind to the firewall. 15mm headed bolt holding it on.
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Old Nov 14, 2012 | 07:30 PM
  #38  
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I tried to remove/replace this braided cable. I used a 19mm deep socket but had very little awkward room to maneuver. Could not get the bolt to budge. If I had some pipe maybe I would extend my small 3/8 ratchet handle. I wasn’t able to get my 1/2” ratchet down in there. Very little clearance. I was also afraid I’d smash my hands into the fuel rail and random hoses above the intake manifold, so I decided not to press my luck. Should I get a pro mechanic to get the bolt loose for me? How important is it to have the bolt as tight as it currently is when I eventually remove/replace it?
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Old Nov 14, 2012 | 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by BimmerJeeper
I tried to remove/replace this braided cable. I used a 19mm deep socket but had very little awkward room to maneuver. Could not get the bolt to budge. If I had some pipe maybe I would extend my small 3/8 ratchet handle. I wasn’t able to get my 1/2” ratchet down in there. Very little clearance. I was also afraid I’d smash my hands into the fuel rail and random hoses above the intake manifold, so I decided not to press my luck. Should I get a pro mechanic to get the bolt loose for me? How important is it to have the bolt as tight as it currently is when I eventually remove/replace it?
Read post # 1 in the following link and just ADD a cable from the firewall to the intake manifold as explained.


https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/cr...x-tips-153657/
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Old Nov 15, 2012 | 07:58 AM
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On a 1998 XJ, I already have a negative battery post connected to the fenderwell? So, the "fix" above seems to accomplish the same thing. Right? The braid goes from the engine to the firewall. Maybe the fix is only for older XJ's without the negative battery ground that the 98 already has?

Oh, you meant "I prefer to add a #4 Gauge cable from the firewall to a bolt on the rear of the intake manifold, either to a heat shield bolt or fuel rail bolt."
Anyone have a picture of where I attach? I don't know what a heat shield or fuel rail bolt is.
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Old Nov 15, 2012 | 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by BimmerJeeper
On a 1998 XJ, I already have a negative battery post connected to the fenderwell? So, the "fix" above seems to accomplish the same thing. Right? The braid goes from the engine to the firewall. Maybe the fix is only for older XJ's without the negative battery ground that the 98 already has?

Oh, you meant "I prefer to add a #4 Gauge cable from the firewall to a bolt on the rear of the intake manifold, either to a heat shield bolt or fuel rail bolt."
Anyone have a picture of where I attach? I don't know what a heat shield or fuel rail bolt is.
Anuywhere on the intake manifold is fine.
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 06:13 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Anuywhere on the intake manifold is fine.
I have no clue where to attach it. Can you be more specific? Do you drill a bolt hole into the manifold? I see no random bolts that could be used.
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 06:29 PM
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You don't need to drill. Isn't there a thin metal heat shield attached to the aluminum intake manifold?

Post a pic of your intake manifold if that will help.
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 06:55 PM
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.
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by BimmerJeeper
On a 1998 XJ, I already have a negative battery post connected to the fenderwell? So, the "fix" above seems to accomplish the same thing. Right? The braid goes from the engine to the firewall. Maybe the fix is only for older XJ's without the negative battery ground that the 98 already has?

Oh, you meant "I prefer to add a #4 Gauge cable from the firewall to a bolt on the rear of the intake manifold, either to a heat shield bolt or fuel rail bolt."
Anyone have a picture of where I attach? I don't know what a heat shield or fuel rail bolt is.
Dont cyl head bolts have threads sticking out of the top of some of them,get a nut that fits with a washer and attach it there?
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