nope

 

throw away the TB spacer. grind Rusty's off the intake tube so it looks like a good product (just kidding...that's one of the few rusty's things I'd put in it).


I'd suggest boring the throttle body 62mm, and picking up a 1999+ 4.0 intake manifold then putting that on it. your stock fuel rail, TB, and TB cable bracket are direct bolt-on. you'd need to remove your idler pulley from the serpentine assembly, get a 3-hole p/s pulley and drill the threads out of it, and get a 96+ power steering tensioner bracket and pulley.

BTW I was quoted $100 for a complete 1999+ intake with TB, fuel rail, bracket, p/s pump with pulley, and p/s bracket with pulley. you can't use the TB or fuel rail but they can be resold.

that's good for 15hp and 30 ft/lbs torque. the old intake holds 2.6 liters of volume, the 99+ holds 4.3 liters of volume. a throttle body spacer isn't even good for adding one liter...it adds 3/4 of a liter, and costs half as much as what I was quoted for a complete intake.

BTW I did that mod on my 95 motor in my 87 comanche with 95 harness....the power is AMAZING.

 

oh, be aware with my suggestion...go-jeep is located in australia. that said, his xj's are RHD. the intake itself is the same but the bracket modifications he needs to do are not accurate for us....ours is purely bolt-on and not even close to similar to the one he's got depicted there.

 

Should only lose 20% thru the Drive train but that is in stock form. With axle regearing bigger tires and etc. the dyno will not be as accurate for you. They are not made for Jeepers.

 

33's I think. I'm fairly certain they didn't have stock gearing though. It shouldn't really matter anyways should it because you shoud have to enter all that info into the dyno computer to get it to give you a correct reading. I doubt they would throw a non stock rig on a dyno that thought it was stock?

 

yep 10% loss through a manual and 20% through a dogamatic.

 

thats a good bias line but there are lots of factors other that trannys

 

Well if that's the case then I should be around 176rwhp and 200+rwtq. Not too shabby if you ask me. I will try to get this thing on a dyno in the next couple of weeks so we all have numbers to look at on interesting and sophisticated looking diagrams aka DYNO CHART.

 

Oh, come now. No sense bringing actual scientific inquiry into the process. It's lots more fun to just guess and argue about abstractions!

 

X2, it only will improve high end power and the 4.0 isnt a high winder. And if you regear your junk, you will notice a world of difference. your only ******* out your motor by running a stock gear w/ oversize tires

 

That it is. But in truth I would like to know what I' m running when all the lames out there run their mouths about how big and bad their rigs are untill they get beat hands down by a little old XJ. Time and time again I've come across bigger rigs that couldn't handle trails, rivers and what not that I took with ease in my XJ. I just want to tell them how little it actually takes to make it ha ha ha.

GO BIG OR GO HOME!

 

Alright then, what gearing do you suggest? I'm running 33's on my rig
once again:
4L H.O
rusty's t body spacer
rusty's cold air intake w/ 6x9 K&N
JET STAGE 2
FLOWMASTER 40

 

I suggest exactly what I said earlier in the thread...use a 99+ intake manifold.

 

dont need the spacer, intake is ok, if you stay away from the water. and i wouldnt even waste the time w/ a chip. if you are geared back to the stock-ish range you should be fine. if you want more power then, start buildin a motor

 

4.56+ No lower than 4.10.