Hey guys, my XJ has power locks and whenever I use the remote or the driver controls, the rear door locks will make a sound like a motor running ... but they do not lock or unlock. Can anyone tell me what I should be looking to replace?

 

The gears are probably stripped. If that's the case, replace whole regulator. About 50 bucks each. I suggest you pull the door panels and watch to see what's going on before you drop money on parts.

 

Sweet - thanks for your advice. I'll do what you suggested first, but after having read some threads here I decided on the following while I have the panel off: I have another late model XJ here with locks that work perfectly. I think I'll swap the front passenger side switch between the 2 to see what happens. It's a temp measure tho, just for diagnosis.

 

if the actuators are making noise then the switch is doing what it needs to do and you have a bad lock actuator(s). Now those passenger side switches are pretty notorious for going bad but that's an all or nothing kind of thing.

 

You can buy brand new universal actuators on Ebay for $16 for ALL FOUR. You leave the old lock/actuator on these bolt on and just tug the existing levers. Work like a champ from what I have read and beats $250 for a new set.

 

 

I just re-read your post .... the windows work fine. it's the rear door locks that don't lock/unlock all the time. In fact it's rare when they do work. Most of the videos I have found keep preaching about the regulators. Hard to find something about the door locks on a '99 or even '97-01 XJ.

 

Oh, sorry. Probably posted at some ridiculous late hour when I should have been in bed!

Here's a cheap fix that may not work, but it's not hard to do, and it's cheap. If it works, great, if not, well, it didn't cost much to try it.

Pull the inside panels off and go crazy with some decent penetrating oil. Things just may be gummed up in there. Spray every part of that mechanism. Door buttons, lock mechanism, everything. Then spray it again. Then spray it again. Work things as much as you can, and spray it some more.

I just went through this with my 97.

Once I got things working with the penetrating oil, I followed up with some spray lube.

 

Don't waste your 50 bucks on that piece in the video.

I did. and when I saw how it actually works, I kicked myself.

that particular problem can be fixed with a piece a wire or a friggin paper clip , in a pinch.

I had numerous problems with the door locks/windows.. and that broken piece.

I replaced the door panel controllers on the left/right side and fixed everything.

no offense mean to BR Mark.

he has helped me in the past and is a good guy.. but that youtube fix-it... is throwing $$ out the window.

 

The only things common between window regulators and power locks are the switch pod assemblies.

Did all 4 door locks fail at the same time?
If so, you 'might' be looking at a new driver's side switch pod or go through the exercise of that video mikesignal posted.

Though hearing the motor run on one of the doors is troubling.
Try BlueRidgeMark's advice first on the door where the motor is running before looking at a new driver's switch pod.

I tried taking my defective driver's pod apart and gave up. Instead...
.... bought a new switch pod for my XJ on fleabay for peanuts on the dollar.

 

Do the rear locks make a whirring noise, meaning they don't sound like the other properly functioning locks??

Nothing that you posted would point to a wiring issue unless they only sometimes actuate and sometimes fail to do anything (no power).

One of my back ones has stripped gears in it. If I unlock and then lock it, it works fine. But if I try to actuate it in the same direction (lock - lock for example) it will just spin and make a noise.

As time goes on it is starting to just spin no matter what, and will make a noise but not actually unlocked.

The motors are built into the latch mechanism in the doors - 3 torx bolts and 2 clips, and they slide out easily. Got one the last time I was at the yard, just need to pull the panel to swap a new one in, should take an hour. You can open em up and re-grease them, but I assume once the gears are stripped you need to replace or rebuild.

​​​​​​I also just got my power locks working after a year of troubleshooting the door wiring. Finally just got harnesses at a junkyard and everything seems to be working again (except the power mirrors but who needs those)

 

That is exactly what is happening.

The 2 rear locks make that sound regardless of whether I use the remote, the passenger or driver switches. Now pretty much I lock/unlock the rears manually. On Saturday I took the panel off the passenger rear and swapped the switch with my other XJ. No change, so I know the switch works fine. Like you suggested, the sound does seem to be coming from the latch section. Gonna try another swicheroo tomorrow, temporarily switch out the latches between the 2 Jeeps and see what happens.

 

You are looking for a Universal door lock actuator. Ebay has tons of sets as low as $16 for a set of four, as previously stated. Just drill a couple holes, clamp the actuator to the lock rod, and cut the two wires from your lock and connect to the new actuator. Done.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Pack-Universal-High-Power-Door-Lock-Actuator-Premium-Quality-Heavy-Duty-/322476381054?hash=item4b1517137e:g:A~QAAOSww3tY54y u

 

You can go the universal route, I like everything to be factory so swapping out the lock mechanism was my preference.
Got it at the Junkyard for $10 or so, but I tested it with a little 12v UPS battery to make sure it worked well

 

I too prefer OE, but I checked out the innards yesterday & what I saw inside the door shell appeared too complicated for me to have confidence taking it out & replacing it. Looking at the rods & wires ... way above my head. I just got this sinking feeling that I would mess up my door locks. And going to the junk yard (which I do frequently) is pretty iffy because sometimes those doors are left ajar, glass down, intruducing water to the shell. If my gears are stripped as someone said, how can I tell if they aren't as well?

Aftermarket seems the way to go but another thing ... the last time I tried drilling metal I almost broke my wrist (skinny-girl-wrists). So you all see my hesitation, but that whirring sound is driving me nuts and I am def going to tackle this job.

Is there a write-up or video to guide me? Think I saw one somewhere before, but it was for '84-'96. IIRC there seems to be differences.

I am grateful for all the suggestions guys.