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Power Lock Issue

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Old Apr 7, 2015 | 08:42 AM
  #1  
hemicuda1313's Avatar
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From: Denver, CO
Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0
Default Power Lock Issue

I am having a weird issue with my driver side power lock. I searched and didnt find anyone with an exact match to my issue so I wanted to post. Let me know if this is common and what to search for if my message is repetitive.

All doors unlock with remote. When locking all but the driver side locks. It must be locked with a key. If I unlock with a remote it opens fine. Not sure what could be the issue. Any thoughts?
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Old Apr 7, 2015 | 11:08 AM
  #2  
'90Cherokee's Avatar
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From: Hacienda Heights
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Most likely the lock actuator has failed but it could be a wiring issue.
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Old Apr 7, 2015 | 11:41 AM
  #3  
Crazy 8s's Avatar
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From: Phoenix, A-to-Z
Year: 1988
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The latch mechanism may be gummed up too.
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Old Apr 7, 2015 | 11:49 AM
  #4  
hemicuda1313's Avatar
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From: Denver, CO
Year: 1999
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Any suggestions for a fix? Is it easier on the mechanism to turn with key and unlock than it is to lock?
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Old Apr 7, 2015 | 05:53 PM
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From: Northern California
Year: 1991
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Interested to see an answer. All mine unlock but none of them lock.
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Old Apr 8, 2015 | 10:04 AM
  #6  
'90Cherokee's Avatar
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From: Hacienda Heights
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For both Hemi and XJ--When hitting the button: look, listen, and feel; does it try to move at all or nothing?
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Old Apr 8, 2015 | 04:23 PM
  #7  
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From: Northern California
Year: 1991
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Its nothing for me. I bought mine that way. PO said he thought it was the actuators but i have a hard time believing that all of them are bad.
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Old Apr 9, 2015 | 09:46 AM
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From: Hacienda Heights
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All working to unlock and doing nothing towards lock is unlikely to be actuators. Assuming you've tried using both door switches and it's the same I'd say a broken or disconnected wire, probably at the driver's door. I think the power from the passenger door switch runs through the driver's door before going to the rest of the doors. I found a few broken wires in the flex tube of mine, some that had been previously repaired.
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Old Apr 10, 2015 | 06:59 PM
  #9  
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From: Northern California
Year: 1991
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Thats what i was leaning towards. Just havent gotten around to popping the door panel off yet. Too many other projects and repairs. Thanks for the info. I hope the OP resolves his problem. I didn't mean to thread jack ya.
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Old Apr 10, 2015 | 08:24 PM
  #10  
DFlintstone's Avatar
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From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
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Engine: 4.0,2.5
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With the window down, through the crack, it's possible to spray something like lithium grease all over in there. Messy but I've done window cranks and lock mechanism's/linkage that way
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Old Apr 10, 2015 | 10:24 PM
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One of mine was doing something similar. It was often a different door that would do it. Then just one door kept doing it. Then started blowing fuses only sometimes. I lubed all the mechanisms and that didn't help. In the end it was the wires running from body to liftgate shorting out. Not sure why sometimes only one door wouldn't work.
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Old Apr 11, 2015 | 05:27 PM
  #12  
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From: Hacienda Heights
Year: 1990
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Originally Posted by Waynerd
One of mine was doing something similar. It was often a different door that would do it. Then just one door kept doing it. Then started blowing fuses only sometimes. I lubed all the mechanisms and that didn't help. In the end it was the wires running from body to liftgate shorting out. Not sure why sometimes only one door wouldn't work.
Some of the power was being taken up by the short so whichever door has a weaker actuator or stickier mechanism will be the one to not work. Temperature can have a fairly big effect, whichever side is in the sun may work better or worse depending on the situation.
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