Guys, I've searched through multiple threads and followed a bunch of advice but I'm not sure if I'm headed in the right direction. Here's the situation: I have a 1999 4 door with power windows and door locks. All 4 windows go up and down from all 4 door switches. When I press the door lock/ unlock button from either the drivers side/ passenger side only the passenger rear/ back hatch lock/ unlock. I hear the lock/ unlock noise from the doors but nothing happens on the drivers front/ rear or the passenger front. I checked the fuse in the passenger kick panel, and swapped it for good measure. I've ordered a new drivers side and passenger side door switch. I've installed the passenger side but not the drivers side yet. I also picked up one of those Omega Proline keyless entry units from amazon and wired it in and it's working like advertised but still the doors are not behaving as they should. I'm just trying to narrow down where to go. 1. Will be to change out the drivers side switch to see if anything changes but if not, I'm not sure what to look at next. Any tips, pointers, threads, or links are welcome. Thanks!!!
Newbie
By chance do the non-locking doors sound like a whirring noise? Instead of a solid click? I had this problem and it turned out to be 3 of my actuators were dead.
It could be considered whirring noise. I'm honestly not sure. I took a video but I'm not too keen on how to upload it here since my CF app doesn't currently work with iOS 11.3.1.
Newbie
Quote:
Originally Posted by motleyakayeti
It could be considered whirring noise. I'm honestly not sure. I took a video but I'm not too keen on how to upload it here since my CF app doesn't currently work with iOS 11.3.1.
I'd upload to youtube and link it here.
Newbie
Yep exact same issue mine had. I went to the junkyard and pick up new actuators. Good as new.
Dang, yeah a junkyard looks like the better option as they're like $50-80 new. Were you're issues with all doors?
Newbie
Quote:
Only the hatch and rear driver's locked.I'm not sure if they all died at once as I bought the jeep like that. I believe I read the the rear zj actuators work in ours if you can't find an xj.Originally Posted by motleyakayeti
Dang, yeah a junkyard looks like the better option as they're like $50-80 new. Were you're issues with all doors?
Junior Member
I just had the same issue on my 98XJ. Drivers door lock works but the other three make that whirring noise and lock/unlock “sometimes” - when they want to. I replaced all three with J/Y parts (did the last one this morning, in fact) and all of them work now.
As an added confusion - I took an 18-volt battery to the J/Y with me to test the locks before buying. I know the XJ is a 12v system but from the videos and posts I’ve seen online, the 18v battery shouldn’t have hurt anything. Well, I pulled and tested several door locks and all of them made the whirring noise. I don’t know if they were all bad, or if 18v was too much and causing the little plastic gears to spin too fast and strip out. So I pulled three units without testing them, brought them home, and they all worked fine. So if you’re taking a tester battery to the J/Y, I’d recommend only a 12v version. Things that make you go hmmmm...
I had replaced my PDM (Passenger Door Motor) unit previously. It’s the switch box attached to the underside of the door trim panel armrest. I had tested mine with a multimeter and figured out the door lock switch was bad. Prior to replacing the PDM, none of my locks did anything. Only the keys and mechanical lock ***** worked.
Hope this helps,
Brett
As an added confusion - I took an 18-volt battery to the J/Y with me to test the locks before buying. I know the XJ is a 12v system but from the videos and posts I’ve seen online, the 18v battery shouldn’t have hurt anything. Well, I pulled and tested several door locks and all of them made the whirring noise. I don’t know if they were all bad, or if 18v was too much and causing the little plastic gears to spin too fast and strip out. So I pulled three units without testing them, brought them home, and they all worked fine. So if you’re taking a tester battery to the J/Y, I’d recommend only a 12v version. Things that make you go hmmmm...
I had replaced my PDM (Passenger Door Motor) unit previously. It’s the switch box attached to the underside of the door trim panel armrest. I had tested mine with a multimeter and figured out the door lock switch was bad. Prior to replacing the PDM, none of my locks did anything. Only the keys and mechanical lock ***** worked.
Hope this helps,
Brett
Guys, thanks so much for the info. I'm going to dig into options. There's unfortunately not a good JY near me so I'll have to travel or look online for a part out.
Junior Member
Here’s my old actuator (front pax door). I cracked the housing trying to access the power lock motor guts. Here are all the little plastic gears and clutches, which spin freely giving us the “whirring” sound. I replaced mine with a J/Y actuator for six bucks, but there’s probably some method to get the gears working again unless they’re all chewed up and missing teeth.
Newbie
Quote:
Originally Posted by XJeepin06
Yep exact same issue mine had. I went to the junkyard and pick up new actuators. Good as new.
Quote:
Yep awesome thread. Confirms my suspicions that my actuators are bad. Exact sound happening when I hit the switch on. Cannot believe these things were made with plastic cogs! Originally Posted by XJeepin06
By chance do the non-locking doors sound like a whirring noise? Instead of a solid click? I had this problem and it turned out to be 3 of my actuators were dead.