Por-15
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 2,112
Likes: 4
From: Wantage, NJ
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Do it right and its great, spray can it and its crap.
Media Blast, Sand, Phosphoric acid scrub, get ALL the rust off, epoxy primer twice, POR 15 Paint Twice, POR 15 Clearcoat with Hardener 2-3 times.
Media Blast, Sand, Phosphoric acid scrub, get ALL the rust off, epoxy primer twice, POR 15 Paint Twice, POR 15 Clearcoat with Hardener 2-3 times.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 358
Likes: 3
From: Illinois
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Yes, you can brush it on. I'm confused by the above post, though. I thought POR15 was best applied directly to the cleaned metal, not over primer. Also, from my past experience, I think you need to topcoat while the base coat is still tacky. I'm sure that all application instructions are available from the manufacturer.
I have read of some people who haven't been satisfied with it. I suspect it might have been due to improper surface prep. That's where most coating applications fail.
I have read of some people who haven't been satisfied with it. I suspect it might have been due to improper surface prep. That's where most coating applications fail.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 2,112
Likes: 4
From: Wantage, NJ
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
It will look like junk be yes.
That is improper. We POR 15'd a Chevelle 9 years ago, owner still drives it around. The method I stated is the method we used.
Yes, you can brush it on. I'm confused by the above post, though. I thought POR15 was best applied directly to the cleaned metal, not over primer. Also, from my past experience, I think you need to topcoat while the base coat is still tacky. I'm sure that all application instructions are available from the manufacturer.
I have read of some people who haven't been satisfied with it. I suspect it might have been due to improper surface prep. That's where most coating applications fail.
I have read of some people who haven't been satisfied with it. I suspect it might have been due to improper surface prep. That's where most coating applications fail.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 358
Likes: 3
From: Illinois
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
http://www.por15.com/Data%20Sheets/P...cationInfo.pdf
Here's POR's application instructions. I don't see where they recommend epoxy primer under the product, but if it worked for you, I can't argue that it won't work.
We used it on a '68 Ford truck that we redid probably 10-15 years ago and where the metal was carefully prepped, it is still pretty solid.
Here's POR's application instructions. I don't see where they recommend epoxy primer under the product, but if it worked for you, I can't argue that it won't work.
We used it on a '68 Ford truck that we redid probably 10-15 years ago and where the metal was carefully prepped, it is still pretty solid.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 2,112
Likes: 4
From: Wantage, NJ
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Ive never read their instructions before. But epoxy primer could only add more rust preventing properties. A high school kid we had working for us told us how his grandfather did it with him on his Z28, and how his grandfather has been doing it for years. So we gave it a whirl and it worked great.
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Seasoned Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 358
Likes: 3
From: Illinois
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I think it was the epoxy primer and careful surface prep that worked for you. POR 15 is the primer in a normal application, as I understand it.
The only time I would use POR is where the metal is rusty, When painting clean metal, I would use epoxy, self etching primer for a "nice" finish. In an area where I wasn't too concerned about finish quality, like on a hitch or a bumper, I've used Rustoleum primers and had good success.
The only time I would use POR is where the metal is rusty, When painting clean metal, I would use epoxy, self etching primer for a "nice" finish. In an area where I wasn't too concerned about finish quality, like on a hitch or a bumper, I've used Rustoleum primers and had good success.
That's a pretty funny thing to admit sir. I give you credit for being honest.
The only reason to use POR-15 is it's ability to convert rust into something stable. If you're going to clean down to rust free metal there's no reason to use POR-15. Clean rust free metal then epoxy primer then quality top coat (base color + clear or single stage) is the best process. If you can't (won't) remove all the rust POR-15, Rust Bullet or other converters are a distant 2nd choice with one cavet, POR-15 is very unforgiving if applied wrong. There are several prep stages and products that must be used before using POR-15.
The only reason to use POR-15 is it's ability to convert rust into something stable. If you're going to clean down to rust free metal there's no reason to use POR-15. Clean rust free metal then epoxy primer then quality top coat (base color + clear or single stage) is the best process. If you can't (won't) remove all the rust POR-15, Rust Bullet or other converters are a distant 2nd choice with one cavet, POR-15 is very unforgiving if applied wrong. There are several prep stages and products that must be used before using POR-15.
MJ>XJ
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 17,836
Likes: 7
From: Griffin, G.A.
Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
Read endlessmtnfabs build page... he had nothing but problem's... took every off the bottom applied... didnt stick... stripped it all again and didnit again after contacting the company... followed the instructions 100% and it all fell off again... they wouldn't back it up either... junk... herculiner is the best thing out of all the local store bought stuff... I've used them all...
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 12,367
Likes: 23
From: Oroville, CA
Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
I've used it and had good results with it. It will only stick to rusted metal, not painted surfaces, you must cover it with a top coat of paint be cause UV light will effect it, and it is best to brush it on. The brush marks will even out as it dries, but it is not ment to be a top coat anyway. You can fill minor rust holes with it by using fiberglass matting with the POR15. Just put a coat of POR15 over the area, put some fiberglass matting over when the POR15 is still wet, brush on some more POR15 over the matting, and repeat those steps a few times. The matting edges must be feathered, and when it all dries it will be a solid repair. That is for small holes, like smaller than dime and for pin holes, not huge gaping Flintstone holes.
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,680
Likes: 5
From: Western Michigan
Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l inline 6
lol "huge gaping Flintstone holes" So after thing have dried you just paint over it? Are you suppose to use a "special" top coat product of would regular paint suffice as a top coat?
...there seems to be a lot of misinformation on this thread. POR-15 is awesome, but you should really read their website and instructions first:
a) You can paint it on rust no problem.
b) You can paint in on bare metal, but you need to use their "bare metal prep" solution for it to properly adhere.
c) You can brush it on and it sets up great.
d) You can top coat it with anything, but you need to either apply the topcoat when the last POR-15 coat is tacky, or you need to use their self etching primer between a cured POR-15 coat and any top coat.
e) The basic POR-15 variant is NOT UV resistant!
f) Don't get any on your hootus! That stuff does NOT come off (cloths or your skin).
g) Don't get any water (or sweat) what-so-ever in the paint. If you do, the whole bucket is ruined as it will not cure.
h) Flinstone sized holes: NO. Fist sized holes: Yes.
a) You can paint it on rust no problem.
b) You can paint in on bare metal, but you need to use their "bare metal prep" solution for it to properly adhere.
c) You can brush it on and it sets up great.
d) You can top coat it with anything, but you need to either apply the topcoat when the last POR-15 coat is tacky, or you need to use their self etching primer between a cured POR-15 coat and any top coat.
e) The basic POR-15 variant is NOT UV resistant!
f) Don't get any on your hootus! That stuff does NOT come off (cloths or your skin).
g) Don't get any water (or sweat) what-so-ever in the paint. If you do, the whole bucket is ruined as it will not cure.
h) Flinstone sized holes: NO. Fist sized holes: Yes.
Last edited by TheNerd; Apr 11, 2011 at 11:39 AM.


