Hey sorry for not coming on in a while. Busy with Xmas shopping, and looking for the perfect pearl necklace for my girl. But anyways, yesterday u drove my jeep to work and she dies out on.the highway ramp when I let off the gas. But turned right back on. And drove fine home. Whlould this be from the o2 sensor? I still didn't install the be one.

 

This post hurts my head

 

Lol ya sorry. I was at work still. But what happened was when I drove my jeep to work, I went onto a ramp and the jeep stalled out right when I was turning. I pulled it to the shoulder and it fired back up, took a bit but she started and went the rest of the way fine. And when I drove back home I had no problems at all. Now I k.ow my o2 sensor is bad and I did get a new one but didn't install it yet. Would the die out be because of the bad o2 sensor?

 

It's not the building pressure, its the fact that when cold a lot more oil should be going through the bypass cause it is too thick to flow. Idk its in a bunch of tech crap I read. I know the relief should be around 80 psi. The other thing is ya, I know there is a film on the bearings, but with less zddp that film will get weaker. Companies are relying more on thinner oils for start up and less on residuals. Guess it is splitting hairs.. but I use 5-20 or 5-30. That's a fair difference from 15-40. My gas mileage is better and I have 0 noise from my engines.

 

After 10 pages I'm not going back to read. You did check fuel pressure when you had issues right?

 

Just want yo thank all of you who have helped me on my XJ, and wish you and your families a very merry Christmas.

 

If oil goes through the bypass, it still goes to the bearings, just not through the filter.

I'll try 10-30 Rotella next time just to make you happy.

 

Konrad, do you have the wires plugged onto the correct terminals of your ICM? On my 90:

Green (Front, to instruments)
Black (ground ?)
Yellow (12V from ignition)

Yellow (5 V from puter')
EMPTY

EMPTY
EMPTY
EMPTY (rear)

And, no. I think an O2 sensor might make it richer and richer as it ages.
Cutting out randomly, especially warm/hot is more like the CPS.

And Merry Christmas to you!

 

Cruiser54's Renix CPS, (CKP sensor) Test, Adjustment


Renix CPS Testing and Adjusting
　
　
Renix CPSs have to put out a strong enough signal to the ECU so that it will provide spark.
Most tests for the CPS suggest checking it for an ohms value. This is unreliable and can cause some wasted time and aggravation in your diagnosis of a no-start issue as the CPS will test good when in fact it is bad.
The problem with the ohms test is you can have the correct amount of resistance through the CPS but it isn’t generating enough voltage to trigger the ECU to provide spark.
Unplug the harness connector from the CPS. Using your voltmeter set on AC volts and probing both wires in the connector going to the CPS, crank the engine over. It won’t start with the CPS disconnected.
You should get a reading of .5 AC volts.
If you are down in the .35 AC volts range or lower on your meter reading, you can have intermittent crank/no-start conditions from your Renix Jeep. Some NEW CPSs (from the big box parts stores) have registered only .2 AC volts while reading the proper resistance!! That’s a definite no-start condition. Best to buy your CPS from Napa or the dealer.
Sometimes on a manual transmission equipped Renix Jeep there is an accumulation of debris on the tip of the CPS. It’s worn off clutch material and since the CPS is a magnet, the metal sticks to the tip of the CPS causing a reduced voltage signal. You MAY get by with cleaning the tip of the CPS off.
A little trick for increasing the output of your CPS is to drill out it’s mounting holes with the first drill bit that just won’t fit through the original holes. Then, when mounting it, hold the CPS down as close to the flywheel as you can while tightening the bolts.
　
Revised 11-29-2011

 

I'm gonna have to read that damn article again....

 

OK so here's the update. The jeep is running good. The only problem I have now is that if I drive and have on more then my headlights, she will die out when stopped. O have to turn off the headlights and she will turn right back over. I did clean all my wiring connection and grounds. Would it be the alternator or the ecu or both?

i found these. are they ay good?
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/se...and%7CStandard

 

Check the alternator output with a gauge. Highly doubtful it's the ECU.

Did you refresh the grounds per my write-up without skipping any steps?

 

X2^ The same bulb lit up here when you mentioned turning and having it die. Check the belt as well since maybe it doesn't drive both the PS pump and the alternator at the same time. My new belt from O'rielies seems to be real slick btw. Mine idles at 14.25 Volts, and stays over 14 with the brights and blower on. (you could try that while turning the wheel if you like)

 

I did refresh all the grounds to the t. I'm thinking I might need to replace all my wires, I'm sure a few r rotting away on me killing this old jeep. But ya I'm gonna go test my alternator today. Btw what should the alternator be at normally? And I'll keep an update on this. Like I said a few times before, thank you for the help.

 

OK so my alternator is good. And they said something about a voltage regulator? Where is that at?