please help!! before i drive this thing off a cliff
The C-101 connector is located on the firewall above your brake booster...
http://image.jpmagazine.com/f/285056..._connector.jpg
Your Crank Position Sensor (CPS) is located on top of the transmission bell housing on the driver's side. Just because it was replaced doesn't mean that it's working correctly. If it was replaced with one from Auto Zone, they have been known to fail very quickly, usually best to go with an OEM. However, you have spark so that reduces the likelihood of a bad CPS.
You've purchased an old car (or truck, some folks get butt hurt when you call an XJ a "car") and with it, the issues that arise with old cars. You're doing great so far, giving us the information we need to help. Just be patient and we'll get you through this. I would recommend picking up a multimeter if you don't already have one. It's probably the most important diagnostic tool you can have with a Renix era Jeep.
Once you've got the kinks worked out they really are very reliable, evidenced by the number of them you still see driving around.
http://image.jpmagazine.com/f/285056..._connector.jpg
Your Crank Position Sensor (CPS) is located on top of the transmission bell housing on the driver's side. Just because it was replaced doesn't mean that it's working correctly. If it was replaced with one from Auto Zone, they have been known to fail very quickly, usually best to go with an OEM. However, you have spark so that reduces the likelihood of a bad CPS.
You've purchased an old car (or truck, some folks get butt hurt when you call an XJ a "car") and with it, the issues that arise with old cars. You're doing great so far, giving us the information we need to help. Just be patient and we'll get you through this. I would recommend picking up a multimeter if you don't already have one. It's probably the most important diagnostic tool you can have with a Renix era Jeep.
Once you've got the kinks worked out they really are very reliable, evidenced by the number of them you still see driving around.
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Not on a Renix...........It's for sequentially firing the injectors only. Go out to any rEnix Jeep and unplug the dizzy. It will start.
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
checked my grounds tonight i was impatient.. so they all look decent now.. still same thing wont start and i smell fuel.. almost started.. but didnt. almoststarting to wonder if i have faulty spark plugs but they are new.. bc i spray starter fluid in the intake and still no start
Checked? Or refreshed? Looked at them or removed and cleaned?
The coil/ICU refreshing could be the problem.
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Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2012
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From: chandler, az
Year: 87
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0
havent tried the tps yet.. is that something thats could cause it to be intermittently no starting? its just so damn weird how itll run perfect one minute.. then sometimes no start at all, sometimes it starts but idles crazy and seems to be running rich.. also the temp gauge reads around 160 which seems low, but the hood getts hot as hell after running for a few minutes at idle.. sorry im going in so many directions.. just figure the more info i put out the better chance it may sound like something that i just dont know about.
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
havent tried the tps yet.. is that something thats could cause it to be intermittently no starting? its just so damn weird how itll run perfect one minute.. then sometimes no start at all, sometimes it starts but idles crazy and seems to be running rich.. also the temp gauge reads around 160 which seems low, but the hood getts hot as hell after running for a few minutes at idle.. sorry im going in so many directions.. just figure the more info i put out the better chance it may sound like something that i just dont know about.
Stay focused will ya? The TPS will not cause your problem.
PERFORM the procedures given you first. If it turns out they don't fix the problem, they needed to be done anyway. You're talking an hours time to do ALL the procedures, which could fix your Jeep, and you're spending more time than that asking question after question. Sorry to sound harsh, but you need to open the hood and get to work.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 11
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From: chandler, az
Year: 87
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0
cruiser.. i disconnected the grounds i was able to find and cleaned them up.. and how can i go about refreshing the coil and ICU?? not sure where they are.. and what did you mean by unplug the "dizzy".. sorry for my ignorance, im learning as i go here.
and i mentioned the tps because someone here just said it could be that.
and i mentioned the tps because someone here just said it could be that.
Last edited by aycagney; Sep 15, 2012 at 07:08 AM.
::CF Moderator::
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
The coil/ICU write-up and the C101 connector write-up were included with the ground refreshing post.
It ain't the dizzy aka distributor internals so wipe that off your radar screen.
2 different views of the C101 are here. I believe F1Addict posted some photos up for you, too.
We're going to have to eliminate some things as possible problems first before we'll find the root cause. There is no silver bullet cure in automotive diagnostics as multiple things can cause the same symptoms.
It ain't the dizzy aka distributor internals so wipe that off your radar screen.
2 different views of the C101 are here. I believe F1Addict posted some photos up for you, too.
We're going to have to eliminate some things as possible problems first before we'll find the root cause. There is no silver bullet cure in automotive diagnostics as multiple things can cause the same symptoms.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 11
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From: chandler, az
Year: 87
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0
ok thanks guys for the photos.. big help now i know where the connection is. ok well i suppose ill begin cleaning that up and removing my ground connections and clean them up and see what happens in the morning.. thanks again for the help everyone.
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Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Don't forget to do the coil/ICU also. No shortcuts either on any of the write-ups. Remember this: You can't see electricity..
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2012
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From: chandler, az
Year: 87
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0
very true cruiser.. so your saying i should replace the icu and coil?? or check?? ive never used a multimeter before, i suck at electrical stuff, thats why im here.. someone said i should get one, is that what i should use to check the coil and icu?
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
READ my instructions. You don't need a meter to refresh the coil/ICU connectors.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 11
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From: chandler, az
Year: 87
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0
ok will do.. ill go back and re read ... its 5:30 in the morn here my brain is toast.. ill get at this stuff in the am after a few hours sleep. and ill let ya know what happens. thanks for the help much appreciated.
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Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Canon City CO
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Renix I6 4.0!
Originally Posted by cruiser54
It's called "crank-nostart" The engine is turning over with the starter but not starting.
Op, did you zip tie your cps wire away from your manifold? It WILL short it out and cause crank no starts.
Last edited by lukeincolorado; Sep 15, 2012 at 01:39 PM.


