please help!
10-31-2014, 01:12 PM
#1
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 6cyl 4.0ltr
please help!
Ok, I have been to several shops and NO one can help, I'm hoping someone can help me figure out what's up with my jeep.
I have an idle problem, it used to just idle high or low occasionally but now it completely bottoms out if I come to a stop or go to slow and it takes a few seconds longer than normal to start. This is pretty dangerous if I'm pulling into traffic and it just stops.
Second problem, when I hit the gas my car doesn't go anywhere, I can hear the engine rev up but the rpm and speed don't change.
What HAS been done: engine swap, transmission swap, radiator, fuel filter, throttle position sensor along with the other two sensors next to it, air intake has been cleaned out and filter replaced, fuel filter has been replaced.
If I can't get these solved relatively soon at this point I will need to find another car.
I have an idle problem, it used to just idle high or low occasionally but now it completely bottoms out if I come to a stop or go to slow and it takes a few seconds longer than normal to start. This is pretty dangerous if I'm pulling into traffic and it just stops.
Second problem, when I hit the gas my car doesn't go anywhere, I can hear the engine rev up but the rpm and speed don't change.
What HAS been done: engine swap, transmission swap, radiator, fuel filter, throttle position sensor along with the other two sensors next to it, air intake has been cleaned out and filter replaced, fuel filter has been replaced.
If I can't get these solved relatively soon at this point I will need to find another car.
10-31-2014, 01:18 PM
#2
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Ok, I have been to several shops and NO one can help, I'm hoping someone can help me figure out what's up with my jeep.
I have an idle problem, it used to just idle high or low occasionally but now it completely bottoms out if I come to a stop or go to slow and it takes a few seconds longer than normal to start. This is pretty dangerous if I'm pulling into traffic and it just stops.
Second problem, when I hit the gas my car doesn't go anywhere, I can hear the engine rev up but the rpm and speed don't change.
What HAS been done: engine swap, transmission swap, radiator, fuel filter, throttle position sensor along with the other two sensors next to it, air intake has been cleaned out and filter replaced, fuel filter has been replaced.
If I can't get these solved relatively soon at this point I will need to find another car.
I have an idle problem, it used to just idle high or low occasionally but now it completely bottoms out if I come to a stop or go to slow and it takes a few seconds longer than normal to start. This is pretty dangerous if I'm pulling into traffic and it just stops.
Second problem, when I hit the gas my car doesn't go anywhere, I can hear the engine rev up but the rpm and speed don't change.
What HAS been done: engine swap, transmission swap, radiator, fuel filter, throttle position sensor along with the other two sensors next to it, air intake has been cleaned out and filter replaced, fuel filter has been replaced.
If I can't get these solved relatively soon at this point I will need to find another car.
We’re here to help but you must understand that all Jeeps are not the same.
In order for us to give you more accurate advice and help, we must know the following, as applicable, along with detailed information as to the symptoms/problems etc:
Year
Model
Engine
Transmission
Transfer case
11-03-2014, 10:45 PM
#3
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 6cyl 4.0ltr
Sorry, forgot those important details, should have known better from all my parts swapping!
1999 Cherokee sport
6cyl 4.0ltr
Irk about the transmission or the transfer case.
1999 Cherokee sport
6cyl 4.0ltr
Irk about the transmission or the transfer case.
11-04-2014, 06:31 AM
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Year: 1990
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11-05-2014, 07:34 AM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
No codes?
Did they get all the ground wires hooked up on the block to clean and shiny surfaces when they did the swap?
Did they get all the ground wires hooked up on the block to clean and shiny surfaces when they did the swap?
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11-06-2014, 06:27 AM
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Year: 1999
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I wasn't present for the engine swap but my husband and a trusted mechanic did it, this problem was before the swap and has recently been getting worse.
No codes! I know, weird right? I'm starting to think the only thing it looks for is o2 censors and broken cylinders.
I'll try the horn relay, what would that have to do with it? (not judging just asking so I can make the connection in my head to)
No codes! I know, weird right? I'm starting to think the only thing it looks for is o2 censors and broken cylinders.
I'll try the horn relay, what would that have to do with it? (not judging just asking so I can make the connection in my head to)
11-06-2014, 06:30 AM
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11-06-2014, 12:16 PM
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Year: 1989
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Engine: 4.0 renix
It was confusing to me as well, and I think it is confusing because the idle issue may not in fact be related, as what you described (not going anywhere from a stop, but the rpm going up) sounds more like a transmission issue, to which I would recommend first checking the trans fluid (while idling, engine hot, after cycling through park/neutral/drive/etc once or twice, on level ground)
Hesitation issues like this could also absolutely be spark plug/wires/cap/rotor related as well, as it has happened on 2 of my trucks in the past (4.3L engines, but the symptoms would be rather similar with a 4.0)
Hesitation issues like this could also absolutely be spark plug/wires/cap/rotor related as well, as it has happened on 2 of my trucks in the past (4.3L engines, but the symptoms would be rather similar with a 4.0)
11-06-2014, 03:00 PM
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Year: 2000
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Your second problem sounds similar to what happened when my cat broke off, in my case the wires got pulled out of the O2 sensor just behind the cat and was shorting out in the puddles on the way home sending erroneous readings to the computer, however it did throw a code at me. Also what you are hearing is more fuel being injected into the cylinders just like if you are going up a slight grade and you use your toe to apply just a little more pressure to the gas pedal, correct? If so your transmission may not be going back to first gear.
11-06-2014, 04:07 PM
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
[QUOTE=spiker16;2968773]I wasn't present for the engine swap but my husband and a trusted mechanic did it, this problem was before the swap and has recently been getting worse.
No codes! I know, weird right? I'm starting to think the only thing it looks for is o2 censors and broken cylinders.
Wht's a "broken cylinders"?
I'll try the horn relay, what would that have to do with it? (not judging just asking so I can make the connection in my head to)[/QUOTE]
He's chasing a clockspring issue.
Check the O2S fuse in the PDC. See if it's blown. I don't have my photobucket fired up or I'd post a pic of the PDC. The O2S heaters fuse is in the top row (closest to the firewall), second from the left (15Amp).
Check the upstream O2S wiring as it passes over the intake manifold going to the upstream O2S. Lots of cases of chafing of the wires in this spot.
Does the "CHECK ENGINE" light come on when you turn the key to RUN, just before cranking? (bulb check).
Some Diagnostic Trouble Codes may not turn on the CEL and are lurking (pending codes). Have pending codes checked.
See if you can get a fuel pressure test gauge from the auto parts store (refunsable deposit) and test your fuel pressure at the fuel rail (key to RUN initially, then while runnng). You should see 49.2 psi +/- 5 psi. You said you changed the fuel filter. Do you mean to say you dropped the fuel tank, removed the fuel pump module, and just replaced the fuel filter sock on the bottom of the pump? If there's an external fuel filter you are talking about, $h!t-can it.
Do a complete recheck of all work accomplished...all electical connectors and ground points secure, etc.
Double check to see if the rubber elbow connecting the MAP sensor to the intake manifold is serviceble and secure.
No codes! I know, weird right? I'm starting to think the only thing it looks for is o2 censors and broken cylinders.
Wht's a "broken cylinders"?
I'll try the horn relay, what would that have to do with it? (not judging just asking so I can make the connection in my head to)[/QUOTE]
He's chasing a clockspring issue.
Check the O2S fuse in the PDC. See if it's blown. I don't have my photobucket fired up or I'd post a pic of the PDC. The O2S heaters fuse is in the top row (closest to the firewall), second from the left (15Amp).
Check the upstream O2S wiring as it passes over the intake manifold going to the upstream O2S. Lots of cases of chafing of the wires in this spot.
Does the "CHECK ENGINE" light come on when you turn the key to RUN, just before cranking? (bulb check).
Some Diagnostic Trouble Codes may not turn on the CEL and are lurking (pending codes). Have pending codes checked.
See if you can get a fuel pressure test gauge from the auto parts store (refunsable deposit) and test your fuel pressure at the fuel rail (key to RUN initially, then while runnng). You should see 49.2 psi +/- 5 psi. You said you changed the fuel filter. Do you mean to say you dropped the fuel tank, removed the fuel pump module, and just replaced the fuel filter sock on the bottom of the pump? If there's an external fuel filter you are talking about, $h!t-can it.
Do a complete recheck of all work accomplished...all electical connectors and ground points secure, etc.
Double check to see if the rubber elbow connecting the MAP sensor to the intake manifold is serviceble and secure.
11-09-2014, 10:14 PM
#14
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 6cyl 4.0ltr
[QUOTE=CCKen;2969090]
On the previous engine I had two cylinders not working correctly for about 4 months then it spit out a third cylinder, engine has been replaced since.
Tank was dropped and pump filter replaced, no external fuel filter.
I am unable to double check all the work done. I'm not exactly the car literate, working on it but not there yet.
Will definitely double check the o2s across he manifold! It was just replaced (against my direction to the mechanic) and the problem did start after that.
Check engine light bulb is working.
Horn relay did not work.
Will try these out, I will see if I can find diagrams to figure out the ground points.
I wasn't present for the engine swap but my husband and a trusted mechanic did it, this problem was before the swap and has recently been getting worse.
No codes! I know, weird right? I'm starting to think the only thing it looks for is o2 censors and broken cylinders.
Wht's a "broken cylinders"?
I'll try the horn relay, what would that have to do with it? (not judging just asking so I can make the connection in my head to)[/QUOTE]
He's chasing a clockspring issue.
Check the O2S fuse in the PDC. See if it's blown. I don't have my photobucket fired up or I'd post a pic of the PDC. The O2S heaters fuse is in the top row (closest to the firewall), second from the left (15Amp).
Check the upstream O2S wiring as it passes over the intake manifold going to the upstream O2S. Lots of cases of chafing of the wires in this spot.
Does the "CHECK ENGINE" light come on when you turn the key to RUN, just before cranking? (bulb check).
Some Diagnostic Trouble Codes may not turn on the CEL and are lurking (pending codes). Have pending codes checked.
See if you can get a fuel pressure test gauge from the auto parts store (refunsable deposit) and test your fuel pressure at the fuel rail (key to RUN initially, then while runnng). You should see 49.2 psi +/- 5 psi. You said you changed the fuel filter. Do you mean to say you dropped the fuel tank, removed the fuel pump module, and just replaced the fuel filter sock on the bottom of the pump? If there's an external fuel filter you are talking about, $h!t-can it.
Do a complete recheck of all work accomplished...all electical connectors and ground points secure, etc.
Double check to see if the rubber elbow connecting the MAP sensor to the intake manifold is serviceble and secure.
No codes! I know, weird right? I'm starting to think the only thing it looks for is o2 censors and broken cylinders.
Wht's a "broken cylinders"?
I'll try the horn relay, what would that have to do with it? (not judging just asking so I can make the connection in my head to)[/QUOTE]
He's chasing a clockspring issue.
Check the O2S fuse in the PDC. See if it's blown. I don't have my photobucket fired up or I'd post a pic of the PDC. The O2S heaters fuse is in the top row (closest to the firewall), second from the left (15Amp).
Check the upstream O2S wiring as it passes over the intake manifold going to the upstream O2S. Lots of cases of chafing of the wires in this spot.
Does the "CHECK ENGINE" light come on when you turn the key to RUN, just before cranking? (bulb check).
Some Diagnostic Trouble Codes may not turn on the CEL and are lurking (pending codes). Have pending codes checked.
See if you can get a fuel pressure test gauge from the auto parts store (refunsable deposit) and test your fuel pressure at the fuel rail (key to RUN initially, then while runnng). You should see 49.2 psi +/- 5 psi. You said you changed the fuel filter. Do you mean to say you dropped the fuel tank, removed the fuel pump module, and just replaced the fuel filter sock on the bottom of the pump? If there's an external fuel filter you are talking about, $h!t-can it.
Do a complete recheck of all work accomplished...all electical connectors and ground points secure, etc.
Double check to see if the rubber elbow connecting the MAP sensor to the intake manifold is serviceble and secure.
On the previous engine I had two cylinders not working correctly for about 4 months then it spit out a third cylinder, engine has been replaced since.
Tank was dropped and pump filter replaced, no external fuel filter.
I am unable to double check all the work done. I'm not exactly the car literate, working on it but not there yet.
Will definitely double check the o2s across he manifold! It was just replaced (against my direction to the mechanic) and the problem did start after that.
Check engine light bulb is working.
Horn relay did not work.
Will try these out, I will see if I can find diagrams to figure out the ground points.
11-09-2014, 10:18 PM
#15
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 6cyl 4.0ltr
It was confusing to me as well, and I think it is confusing because the idle issue may not in fact be related, as what you described (not going anywhere from a stop, but the rpm going up) sounds more like a transmission issue, to which I would recommend first checking the trans fluid (while idling, engine hot, after cycling through park/neutral/drive/etc once or twice, on level ground)
Hesitation issues like this could also absolutely be spark plug/wires/cap/rotor related as well, as it has happened on 2 of my trucks in the past (4.3L engines, but the symptoms would be rather similar with a 4.0)
Hesitation issues like this could also absolutely be spark plug/wires/cap/rotor related as well, as it has happened on 2 of my trucks in the past (4.3L engines, but the symptoms would be rather similar with a 4.0)
Also the spark plug wires we just replaced last summer as well as sparkplugs. This problem also existed before the replacement.
I wasn't assuming that these issues were related, they just both need to be fixed. It isn't the transmission fluid or transmission because this specific problem was before and after the transmission swap.