I know I have recovery hooks up front. Figured that would be standard on Jeeps.

 

fat guy at napa......that cracked me up.

when you get the new axle, check to make sure it has a flat bottom and you will know its an 8.25.


didnt the police version come with 10" brakes too?

 

The 10" brakes were an option with several different packages and I think you are right Police Package was one of them. I think all g'vment purchases were included in the 10" brake grouping like Forest Service and RHD Mail carriers and Military purchases.

 

my 2000 has the tow package but no front tow hooks whats the deal with that?

 

I've cam across 3 Forest Service XJ's here in Michigan with rear Disc's factory.. So anything is possible when it comes to Jeep...

 

Here is the Chryco finally!!

This is the diff. cover off


Here is the guts:



Here is the inside of the cover. I didn't see any shavings or anything in the magnet. All the specks that look like dirt or shavings is just little rain drops.



Here is a close up of the guts. I spun it and checked out the ring gear all the way around and all the teeth look good. No burs or abnormalities. Sucks though. I have to take back my Lube Additive. This 8.25 isn't a LSD



Also, I have one last question before I slap this bad boy on. When I turned the right wheel on this axle the yolk didn't turn. When I spun the left wheel the yolk barely turned. When I turned the yolk the right wheel turned. Whats that about?

 

That's normal for an open diff. Turn the yoke and both wheels will turn in the same direction.

 

Ok. Shew. Thought for a few days now something may be wrong with it. So an open diff. means that only one wheel gets power ever? How do you check the ratio, besides the tag then?

 

It's stamped on the ring gear.

 

Finally got the right axle. Congratulations 89Pioneer.

 

Yup. Am about to tackle this thing here in a lil bit. Gonna attempt it by myself. Don't think it should be to hard. Anybody have any tips or little things they have found to do to make it easier?

 

Before you install this puppy make sure you have the proper ubolts...the ones off the D35 are not wide enough..8.25 use a 3" wide and D35 use a 2 3/4" wide..

 

This one came with 4 u-bolts. I imagine they are the ones that were on it when they pulled off the old rig. I need help with the breaks. How do I disco. the e-brake cable from the connection? Not the break side, but the other end. Also when I drop the DS. Besides the 4 bolts and the c-shaped deals? Can I leave that 4way thing in there and still be able to drop the DS?

 

The four way thing "cross" should be pressed into the driveshaft and held with spring clips. The yoke has the four bolts that come out and release the cross.
The e-brakes have a keyhole type fitting IIRC and you just need enougn slack to release it from the spoon. If the new cables are too short then the right side e-brake cables (2) from a 91 YJ will work and give you some extra length. You will need a short section of 8mm allthread rod and a coupler nut to extend the spoon further back. you can use a regular nut as a jam nut and I think some threadlock would be a good plan as well.

 

So when I take those 4 bolts off the yolk the axle with be free of the driveshaft? How exactly do I get the slack in the e-brake line? If the new ones are to short could just use the old ones, by disconnecting it from the brake?