So I had a bad regulator.
If you hit the switch you heard a nose bu no window action.

So I replaced the regulator and motor with new stuff.
But now the switch does nothing - nor does the DRIVER side switch.
I made a jumper to make sure it goes up and down and it does just the switches all seemed to die?
Feels like something else is wrong -
Power Door lock works on same side.

 

Any testing suggestions?
I did notice that one of the wires coming into the switch did have power on it.
So I am guessing it must be both switch for the passenger window are broken?
Anyone know a way to test like jumping wires and which wires?

 

Just as an update and request for help -
I did the bypass today (https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/win...working-13287/) and discovered that it did indeed bypass the "Window Lock" but did not fix my issue.
Anyone got any tips for me or do I need two switches (Which is hard to believe the both went bad at the same time when they used to both work until I replaced the motor and regulator).

 

I would start by checking all the wire. Make sure that you check the wiring that goes through the door jamb in the rubber boot. It is very common for the wires to break inside of that rubber boot from the door being open and closed. Also check all the ground. If you think that it may be the switches. You can pull one from the back door that you know works and try that. Keep us up dated on what you find. That way if you still have the problem we can go from there.

 

Thanks for helping..
So I pulled both door panels - Front Passenger and Passenger Rear. Seems the switches do not interchange.
See Photos.





In this photo - anyone know what two wires I can jump to make the window move?
I found with my volt met that I have current on yellow and can ground to Brown with Yellow Stripe.

 

Bump before I run out of daylight to test with today,.

 

Ok update on this and another cry for help.
1) I added the jumper wire under the driver kick panel to bybass the window lock - just wanted that out of the equation. I have verified the window lock button does nothing now.
2) I realized I can make two jumper wires and make the window go up and down at passenger side harness below. I found a ground and a posi and just swap them on the input on the harness to the motor to make the window go up and down.
When I realized this last week I went ahead and ordered a new switch that came today.
3) Switch didn't fix the problem.
I can make the window go down with the switch and not up - same that I could do with the old switch that I just replaced for no reason.
4) Last thing I wanted to add is that I can NOT make the window go up OR down with the drivers side switch. and something else odd, when I try to put the window DOWN on the drivers side widow it just does nothing, BUT if I try to put it up with the drivers side switch the LIGHT on the PASSENGER SIDE WINDOW switch goes out.

Can anyone tell me what wires are what - I have tried digesting the wiring diag but I am not making sence of it.
Link to Wire Diag Key https://dl.dropbox.com/u/20567433/wire-key.pdf
Link to Wire Diag https://dl.dropbox.com/u/20567433/wire-diag.pdf



The lower light goes out when I try to put the window UP using the Drivers Side switch.


I will paypal someone $5 bucks for successful help I am pulling my hair out

 

Well its fixed..
It was the wiring harness in the drivers side..
I have 5 wires broken completely and a few with cracks.
Fixed all of those everything works.

 

Glad you figured it out. My 99 GC is doing pretty muck the same thing. May I ask where in the harness were they broken?

 

Right in the elbow..
To find it your going to need to
Pull off the driver side kick panel and unplug the three harnesses that are white you can see there.
Pull off the door panel and plastic moister barrier.
Take out the speaker.
From here you need to pull the wire out the speaker hole - pushing them (and the rubber boot that is just inside the kick panel) through the holes, through the rubber elbow in the door jam.
Once you them all pulled back into the door and then out via the speaker door you just start taking off the tape, protection etc...
Once I did that what you see above is what I found.

 

Thanks for the info.
I have the panels off, but couldn't find any plugs inside the kickpanel. Finally got
enough clearance to replace the broken wire. (never could get the rubber boot off
to maike thing easier. Maybe the 99GC is alittle different).
My sons going to put most of it back together tomorrow, but I need some new pins to hold the door panel on now.

oh yea - I only had one broken wire, but it was the power feed.

 

Sorry I am sure it is different in the GC - I did not notice that.
And thank you for your service sir.

 

Thanks for sharing this info and pictures as I'm having the same problem which I will now tackle this weekend.

 

Good stuff.
I used a lot of these instead of tape and it was pretty easy to get done.
After i wrapped everything in e-tape.
These just crimp on joiners, had some in a misc pack i got at walmart sometime ago.

Hope it goes well for you sir.