park lights come on when I hit the brakes?
01-25-2011, 09:26 AM
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
park lights come on when I hit the brakes?
I am having trouble with my lights. When I push the brake pedal all of the park lights come on including the dash and backup lights. Some times the parklights come on by themselves when its just sitting there. HELP!! Thanks 1998 jeep cherokee 
01-25-2011, 10:17 AM
#3
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: sutherlin Or
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
check the tail lights really well!!!!! i have had a few that blew out but not compleatly the coils in the bulb stuck together causing a back feed problem
01-25-2011, 11:23 AM
#4
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Jacksonville Florida
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Not familiar with the wiring on a Cherokee, but older model GM products would do that if the hazard light flasher went out. You'd turn the hazard light switch on and nothing would happen, but then you'd step on the brakes and everything would light up.
01-29-2011, 01:13 AM
#5
Newbie
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Utah
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
ditto here
just started having the same problem tonight with my '91 Cherokee. in addition I noticed the tail lights were both REALLY bright, and the brake lights were only a little bit brighter. could it be the brake light switch?
01-29-2011, 01:51 AM
#6
Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Tooele, Utah
Posts: 239
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Sounds like you have power feeding into your brake light circuit. First places I would check is the tail light sockets for corrosion or a bad filament. And check the trailer wiring harness really well. Sasquatch what part of utah do you live? I live around Tooele if you are close and need some help.
Trending Topics
01-30-2011, 03:38 AM
#8
Newbie
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Utah
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
just had no time last night...
ok, so, I went out and pulled my brake light bulbs today and guess what? in the drivers side bulb the filament had somehow bridged the gap between the two filaments and was illuminating them both! never seen that in 20 yrs. working on cars. just didn't have time to take the bulbs out last night to check that, it was the strangest thing you've ever seen! new bulb in, problem solved. and here i was thinking all complimicated because I've had to do so much heavy duty wiring diagnostics in my truck lately!. BTW I live in Orem
07-23-2012, 07:40 PM
#10
Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Worcester, MA
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Just like to say that this thread was SUPER helpful. Just solved the exact same problem in my 96 and it was a driver's side rear light bulb as well. Thanks all!!
12-20-2014, 12:06 PM
#11
Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
*Warning: Rant*
Ok I'm definitely bringing this thread back from the grave but I wanted to mention something that was overlooked in the previous posts. (Or perhaps I overlooked the mentioning of it...)
For those of us who live in the rust belt, and in my particular situation, this is an issue with the factory connectors. The rear inside corner of the rear wheel wells tend to rot out and let dirt, mud, water, snow, salt and God knows what else inside the rear of the vehicle. Before you pull your hair out checking 7 miles of interior working, pull the rear panels on both sides and bypass the factory connectors. They are insanely prone to corrosion/ shorting. The set on my drivers side was so bad it was corroded and melted and none of my liftgate features worked. Pulled the panel and got rid of the connectors and everything worked like magic.
I bought a pack of crimp connectors from the local parts store and kept each of the wire bundles separately labeled (lift gate 1, liftgate 2, and taillight) and did it one wire at a time. Took me about a half hour. Should've thought to check the passenger side in the first place...
Long story short, to fix and avoid further problems of the like, pull the panels, rewire the harnesses and patch the holes.
For those of us who live in the rust belt, and in my particular situation, this is an issue with the factory connectors. The rear inside corner of the rear wheel wells tend to rot out and let dirt, mud, water, snow, salt and God knows what else inside the rear of the vehicle. Before you pull your hair out checking 7 miles of interior working, pull the rear panels on both sides and bypass the factory connectors. They are insanely prone to corrosion/ shorting. The set on my drivers side was so bad it was corroded and melted and none of my liftgate features worked. Pulled the panel and got rid of the connectors and everything worked like magic.
I bought a pack of crimp connectors from the local parts store and kept each of the wire bundles separately labeled (lift gate 1, liftgate 2, and taillight) and did it one wire at a time. Took me about a half hour. Should've thought to check the passenger side in the first place...
Long story short, to fix and avoid further problems of the like, pull the panels, rewire the harnesses and patch the holes.
02-15-2017, 10:37 AM
#12
Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
Issues
Hello. Im new to the forum and dragging up an old thread. Im having the same issue. When brakes are applied the gauge cluster lights up like the parking lights are on. And last night i noticed the parking lights are actually lighting up as well. And i have no light whatsoever on the passenger rear. Turn signal works but no brake lights at all. Becoming quite aggravating. Replaced brake switch because brake lights had stuck on a few days ago but the other issue was happening before the replacement.
02-15-2017, 11:02 AM
#13
No, I don't lick fish.
Hello. Im new to the forum and dragging up an old thread. Im having the same issue. When brakes are applied the gauge cluster lights up like the parking lights are on. And last night i noticed the parking lights are actually lighting up as well. And i have no light whatsoever on the passenger rear. Turn signal works but no brake lights at all. Becoming quite aggravating. Replaced brake switch because brake lights had stuck on a few days ago but the other issue was happening before the replacement.
02-15-2017, 11:20 AM
#14
Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
Ive fiddled with it some but havnt dove into it too much yet on account of the sparatic weather here in ohio. Ive tried changing bulbs but nothing so far has made any difference
02-15-2017, 12:15 PM
#15
No, I don't lick fish.
Ok I'm definitely bringing this thread back from the grave but I wanted to mention something that was overlooked in the previous posts. (Or perhaps I overlooked the mentioning of it...)
For those of us who live in the rust belt, and in my particular situation, this is an issue with the factory connectors. The rear inside corner of the rear wheel wells tend to rot out and let dirt, mud, water, snow, salt and God knows what else inside the rear of the vehicle. Before you pull your hair out checking 7 miles of interior working, pull the rear panels on both sides and bypass the factory connectors. They are insanely prone to corrosion/ shorting. The set on my drivers side was so bad it was corroded and melted and none of my liftgate features worked. Pulled the panel and got rid of the connectors and everything worked like magic.
I bought a pack of crimp connectors from the local parts store and kept each of the wire bundles separately labeled (lift gate 1, liftgate 2, and taillight) and did it one wire at a time. Took me about a half hour. Should've thought to check the passenger side in the first place...
Long story short, to fix and avoid further problems of the like, pull the panels, rewire the harnesses and patch the holes.
For those of us who live in the rust belt, and in my particular situation, this is an issue with the factory connectors. The rear inside corner of the rear wheel wells tend to rot out and let dirt, mud, water, snow, salt and God knows what else inside the rear of the vehicle. Before you pull your hair out checking 7 miles of interior working, pull the rear panels on both sides and bypass the factory connectors. They are insanely prone to corrosion/ shorting. The set on my drivers side was so bad it was corroded and melted and none of my liftgate features worked. Pulled the panel and got rid of the connectors and everything worked like magic.
I bought a pack of crimp connectors from the local parts store and kept each of the wire bundles separately labeled (lift gate 1, liftgate 2, and taillight) and did it one wire at a time. Took me about a half hour. Should've thought to check the passenger side in the first place...
Long story short, to fix and avoid further problems of the like, pull the panels, rewire the harnesses and patch the holes.