why are you asking me that?

 

Oh come on.. It's all explained in Tip 31.
It's not rocket science by any means. Pun intended. Just do it.

 

You said a few comments up that the NAPA part numbers for Tip 31 have changed and asked me to update you with the new part numbers. When I check your numbers against the NAPA site they seem to still be correct.

 

Cutting oil for one. After you get it started just "rock it in" from there. Never force it. Just a little bit of force, then back if off, tread it in some more, just a little big of force, back if off. Once you get it in a bit, pull it all the way back out, flush it out, start over again. You'll get the feel for it; it's just soft metal, steel is the real PITA. You want to cut material, so don't be too timid, but don't force it. If it gets tight, just back if off and "rock it in".. That and keep it as straight as possible. It may want to kick over when you're first starting it. Just pull it back into perpendicular.

 

I know he writes to not go too deep and to use an oiled tap but I would think that this assumes a bit of experience with tapping a new thread. I’ve never done that before so I was just asking if you had any tips for the actual process of creating the new threads. I would think using a vice, making sure the tap is perpendicular, etc, but I don’t want to screw this up.

 

Okay. Get after it and find out for us!!!

Holy ****. You're stating the obvious.
Nobody on all forums combined, and worldwide, for many years, using Tip 31, has ever asked more questions about it than you.
One time, a guy said the part numbers weren't correct. I have never pursued the update if their are any on the part numbers.
You think I get paid to do this?

Donations can be made on my website FYI.

 

Thank you! Maybe I’ll get some scrap aluminum to test on first. I’m sure it’s not difficult but I don’t want my trial run to be on the end product.

 

You’ve got $50 from me. Sorry for asking so many questions.

 

A good read on O2 sensors. https://www.walkerproducts.com/wp-co...ning-Guide.pdf

The silicone sealers that are considered unsafe are primarily the versions that smell like vinegar (acetic acid) while they cure. The silicon fumes going through the combustion chamber get deposited on the O2 sensor as a whitish film. I believe it was GM who discovered the issue when they switched to using just a bead of cheap silicon on their intakes instead of a gasket.

As for the 4-wires changing to 3 wires at the connector, they probably just joined the signal and heater ground wires together. The original NTK sensor used the same ground wire for the heater as the signal, which wasn't a good idea idea because a poor ground would affect the sensor signal when the heater was powered.

 

@lawsoncl thanks for the info - I’ll give that a read now. I don’t know if the sensor needed to be replaced but the FSM says to replace at 82,500 and I bought it with 99k and zero previous maintenance records. So for $50 I have peace of mind that there’s a new O2 sensor in it.

 

I won't argue that an O2 sensor isn't routine maintenance, but I probably wouldn't bother unless I had symptoms like poor mileage or a check engine code (not applicable for the older renix, though).

With the horrible quality of aftermarket parts these days, it's a bad idea blindly replace sensors unless you're sure the original is bad. Too many people just start replacing all the sensors trying to shotgun a problem or want to replace them under the misguided notion of refreshing everything. The reality is that that 200k mile part is often in better shape than the new crap chinese part. This is especially true for the crank sensor.

 

@lawsoncl Well I still have the old one and the Bosch has a 1yr warranty. I thought Bosch was OEM for 90 and NTK after that? Regardless, 1990 quality vs 2023 quality will most certainly be superior. Everything’s going down the tubes!

“What tubes? Did you see any tubes? I didn’t see any tubes.” -George Carlin

 

Interesting, I'd always believed "Detroit" invented the CEL - yet my mid'-80's Jaguars had them (long before there was any guidance as to what they meant - or what you should do if they came on)

Manufacturers publish them for virtually every fastener on a vehicle, even those you can't get a torque wrench near, & I've learned that they're important in engine assembly & useful when it comes to such things as wheel bearings & pinion nuts, most can, safely, be disregarded - but that's just me (& a lot of others), not a practice/approach/attitude I'm advocating, always best to do things, as far as practicable, the way you're comfortable with.

Hadn't seen Cruiser's response @ 22 when I posted that.

 

@UKXJ there was no way I would have been able to get my torque wrench in there!

 

Anger? No anger, just a few people bouncing thoughts/ideas/experience around. it's a sharing/common interest thing; that's what forums are like: an exchange of information, not necessarily direct answers to specific questions.