Overheating insanity
Sir, I hope you did not install a re-built water pump. For the little extra money, a NEW pump is highly desireable.
Just maybe, the impellar is not affixed securely to the pump drive shaft. Could that be? Stranger things have happened if you've ever seen the folks who put these rebuilds together.
You think the folks at McDonalds are "out of it", you should see the types who work for almost nothing in a rebuilder's place. They're either talking to each other telling jokes or texting who ever ?
Somthing doesn't add up here, and I would start from scratch and consider all possibilities until you get to the bottom of it.
P.S. Roeboat, Was the head gasket recently replaced ? I'm trying to help you find the solution.
Just maybe, the impellar is not affixed securely to the pump drive shaft. Could that be? Stranger things have happened if you've ever seen the folks who put these rebuilds together.
You think the folks at McDonalds are "out of it", you should see the types who work for almost nothing in a rebuilder's place. They're either talking to each other telling jokes or texting who ever ?
Somthing doesn't add up here, and I would start from scratch and consider all possibilities until you get to the bottom of it.
P.S. Roeboat, Was the head gasket recently replaced ? I'm trying to help you find the solution.
Roeboat, you've replaced the temp sensor for the dash gauge, Yes?
But not the gauge itself, correct?
Do you have a thermal tested, the type that reads temps from a distance or can you borrow one. I need for you to verify for yourself that it actually and truely does reach 250 F, at which point you say you turn the engine off.
You need to check the temp at that point with an accurate external temp testing tool. That is the true beginning of your quest to solving your problem. AGREED ?
But not the gauge itself, correct?
Do you have a thermal tested, the type that reads temps from a distance or can you borrow one. I need for you to verify for yourself that it actually and truely does reach 250 F, at which point you say you turn the engine off.
You need to check the temp at that point with an accurate external temp testing tool. That is the true beginning of your quest to solving your problem. AGREED ?
Once again, I say you have something out of the ordinary going on there.
For instance, I never buy a new cooling radiator that does not come in a manufacturer's seal cardboard box. You go to alot of retailers and half the boxes are open sitting on the shelf or the box is gone entirely. Of course, the radiator inlet and outlets nipples are not sealed with tape, so at night after the place closes and the rodents come out to feed and play they have full access to these openings and who knows what has crawled into a rediator and gotten stuck in there.
The same applies to radiator hoses sitting on NAPA's shelves.
If your "new" radiator has a rat or several mice up in it, you are done for. Or, the mechanice who installed the radiator may have gone home one afternoon and left the entire system, (engine block, radiator, hoses) all open and accessible to the garages rodents and came it the next day and bottomed everything up with a rat in your cooling system that would explain the coolant blockage problem you're having.
For instance, I never buy a new cooling radiator that does not come in a manufacturer's seal cardboard box. You go to alot of retailers and half the boxes are open sitting on the shelf or the box is gone entirely. Of course, the radiator inlet and outlets nipples are not sealed with tape, so at night after the place closes and the rodents come out to feed and play they have full access to these openings and who knows what has crawled into a rediator and gotten stuck in there.
The same applies to radiator hoses sitting on NAPA's shelves.
If your "new" radiator has a rat or several mice up in it, you are done for. Or, the mechanice who installed the radiator may have gone home one afternoon and left the entire system, (engine block, radiator, hoses) all open and accessible to the garages rodents and came it the next day and bottomed everything up with a rat in your cooling system that would explain the coolant blockage problem you're having.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 344
Likes: 1
From: California
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6
-Belt routing is def correct
-Def burped of air
-It does overheat with the heater on full blast.
-I have not tried it without the thermostat
Could the head gasket somehow cause a coolant flow restriction? At about 240F the top rad hose is not even hot, and can still grab with bare hand without problem
-Def burped of air
-It does overheat with the heater on full blast.
-I have not tried it without the thermostat
Could the head gasket somehow cause a coolant flow restriction? At about 240F the top rad hose is not even hot, and can still grab with bare hand without problem
stuck thermostat?
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,889
Likes: 2
From: Long Island N.Y.
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0
Just for the hell of it try taking everything apart again and flush it extremely good it mean keep running and forcing pressure thru the radiator and make sure no gunk is in there same with the heater core the block everything
Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 150
Likes: 1
From: East Tennessee
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Just curious - is this a recent development that surfaced after you have driven with no problems? Or did you just acquire the vehicle are are sort8ing out issues? IOW, have you experienced the onset of this problem or did it come to you this way?
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