WELCOME Smokey.

Yea those deposits concern me to. Could be bad where the water jackets narrow down in the block and head.

 

""oh and one more thing, neither my old hose or the new hose had a spring inside it. Do I need the spring you think? Is there a universal hose spring I could use maybe??""

I havnt found a universal spring but you can squeeze lower hose when jeep is warmed running if the hose stays flat then you could consider replacing it with a silicone hose


I have also noticed when installing new thermostat: that the thermostat can fall against the housing when being mounted because there is a little extra room in the housing, be sure that all foreign material is cleaned out of circular grove that thermostat fits into and the part makes good contact with the head

Please let me know if you have any other question's

 

Yes ive had problems with that

 

THANK YOU!! Thank you all for you help!

And I think you're all right, the buildup of rust/scale inside the engine is a problem and maybe THE problem. Does anyone have experience with "Motorcraft VC-9" ?

Also, I took off the lower radiator hose on my lunch break just now and sliced off about 3/4" off the side that connects to the water pump and it fits MUCH better now - no more half-way-kink in the bend.

 

So there's several different products/chemicals that people can be used to clean the rust/scale/dirt/mud out of the cooling system:

• CLR (most agree this is too aggressive for aluminum, but I have a brass core radiator. don't know about the heater core though. And are the freeze plugs aluminum or iron?)
• Citric acid. This is what Mercadez-benz dealerships use and they don't give it away for cheap
• Motorcraft VC9. This is what Ford dealerships use for the all-iron diesel engines, namely the 6.0 which has a real problem with rust clogging the oil cooler somehow.. Reportedly it works very very well and it can be picked up from a Ford dealership for around $25.
• cascade dishwashing detergent
• oxalic acid. Reportedly this is really good at removing rust

So far I like the VC9 and the citric acid ideas

 

I have heard of good results with Amway laundry detergent (non foaming, powder form), and cascade (same non foaming, powder).

The only problem is having to flush the motor thoroughly afterwords, but that might not be a bad thing.

I always use distilled water, it's cheap enough and offers good insurance, but a really good water filter would be fine as well.

I need to get one of these spill free funnels to make burping the cooling system 100% foolproof

http://m.ebay.com/itm/400542404877?_mwBanner=1

 

I agree Waffles Distilled water is the way to go

The way I burp the system is to slightly unscrew the intake temp sensor so that's its loose enough to allow the air out while vehicle runs. Once air is out the fluid begins to trickle out so don't unscrew it all the way so theres little mess. Also helps if rear is slightly uphill

 

the op xj does not have that

 

I like this

 

"the op xj does not have that"

I don't know what an OP XJ is but that sensor runs the temp gauge in the dash, sure would be a shame to have no temp gauge

 

OP=Original poster
xj=the jeep

the temp sensor you're referring to at the back of the head was moved to the thermostat housing on later models like the op's

That'll be 25 cents for the knowledge given.

edit: I'm on the wrong overheating thread lol. But it still looks like a late model from post one. If it is indeed an early model with the sensor then ill provide 25 cents haha

 

yea we have the tandem highway overheating threads atm. Kind of funny. Hope they all get it figured out.

 

that and another one talking about overheating and the op has a 99 so that's the one I thought I was on haha. Can't keep up!

 

I stopped trying lol.

 

From my understanding the temp sensor on xj= jeep at the front of the thermostat housing is for front coolant temperature and the rear is for the dummy gauge (intake/exhaust temp)and thanks for the cents I'll put it into savings