Overheating
#1
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Overheating
Ok so I have a 1999 jeep cherokee XJ 4.0L I've burped the system and sitting and idling she runs at about 195-200 degrees but when I drive she spikes up and over heats now I did find out both upper and lower hoses are collapsing so I'm gonna get both new hoses and springs for both to correct that. Should I go ahead and replace the thermostat to eliminate any other issues? There's no metal or anything in the coolant so I believe the water pump is fine or should I say the hell with it and change it all? I think the hoses are my issue it doesn't do it per say every time I know it's both the head compression reads equal across the board plus it's the cast iron head so head gasket is fine just need some fellow jeepers advice incase I missed something now she does have 35" tires too maybe that plays a part too but gonna get some 33" for daily driver here soon thanks in advance
#2
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Originally Posted by Christopher Glory
Ok so I have a 1999 jeep cherokee XJ 4.0L I've burped the system and sitting and idling she runs at about 195-200 degrees but when I drive she spikes up and over heats now I did find out both upper and lower hoses are collapsing so I'm gonna get both new hoses and springs for both to correct that. Should I go ahead and replace the thermostat to eliminate any other issues? There's no metal or anything in the coolant so I believe the water pump is fine or should I say the hell with it and change it all? I think the hoses are my issue it doesn't do it per say every time I know it's both the head compression reads equal across the board plus it's the cast iron head so head gasket is fine just need some fellow jeepers advice incase I missed something now she does have 35" tires too maybe that plays a part too but gonna get some 33" for daily driver here soon thanks in advance
#3
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Food for thought:
The cooling system is definitely one of the most important facets of keeping your engine alive. The vehicle you have is a 1999. It's almost 20 years old. When was the last time the cooling system was overhauled? It's highly HIGHLY recommended that update all the components of the cooling system. I wouldn't assume anything is in good shape, especially the waterpump. That impeller could be hitting the inside of the block and you won't even know. I just replaced my original waterpump a few weeks ago at 73k miles. I wasn't having any issues besides the radiator was rotting so I decided to do the entire system. Turns out the waterpump impeller was starting to hit the block. Glad I caught that now.
So moral of the story, do the entire cooling system obviously excluding the heater core since that's a project in itself.
The cooling system is definitely one of the most important facets of keeping your engine alive. The vehicle you have is a 1999. It's almost 20 years old. When was the last time the cooling system was overhauled? It's highly HIGHLY recommended that update all the components of the cooling system. I wouldn't assume anything is in good shape, especially the waterpump. That impeller could be hitting the inside of the block and you won't even know. I just replaced my original waterpump a few weeks ago at 73k miles. I wasn't having any issues besides the radiator was rotting so I decided to do the entire system. Turns out the waterpump impeller was starting to hit the block. Glad I caught that now.
So moral of the story, do the entire cooling system obviously excluding the heater core since that's a project in itself.
#5
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Here's the fan clutch you want if your looking for an upgrade over stock. It's not a ZJ fan clutch. I went with it when I redid my system but am betting an OEM type replacement would have worked fine.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/TEM272310
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/TEM272310
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#9
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Here's the fan clutch you want if your looking for an upgrade over stock. It's not a ZJ fan clutch. I went with it when I redid my system but am betting an OEM type replacement would have worked fine.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/TEM272310
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/TEM272310
#11
CF Veteran
Just for the record, the spring was only put in the lower hose at the factory because they would vacuum fill the cooling system.
A properly working cooling system should work just fine without it, but I do understand that it's piece of mind to have it in there.
If the hoses are collapsing, I would think that maybe there is more to it than just old parts. Give everything a good flush before installing the new stuff.
A properly working cooling system should work just fine without it, but I do understand that it's piece of mind to have it in there.
If the hoses are collapsing, I would think that maybe there is more to it than just old parts. Give everything a good flush before installing the new stuff.
#14
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Year: 2000 and 1998
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Car radiator hoses are the two flexible tubes that circulate coolant from the engine to the radiator, where it is cooled, then back to the engine. There are two types of radiator hoses: molded and flexible. Radiator hoses are constructed from silicone rubber, neoprene and other synthetic materials, and are designed for long service life. Nevertheless, conditions develop that may cause them to collapse or fail altogether.
Clogged Cooling System
Car radiator hoses are the two flexible tubes that circulate coolant from the engine to the radiator, where it is cooled, then back to the engine. There are two types of radiator hoses: molded and flexible. Radiator hoses are constructed from silicone rubber, neoprene and other synthetic materials, and are designed for long service life. Nevertheless, conditions develop that may cause them to collapse or fail altogether.
Clogged Cooling System
- A collapsed radiator hose does not necessarily indicate a bad hose. Buildup of chemical deposits or debris in the cooling system will gradually constrict coolant flow. This and other coolant blockages can cause system overheating and a vacuum sufficient to collapse a weakened hose.